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Old 01-02-2013, 06:01 PM   #16
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


I would use at least 3/8", but some tile guys probably know better than me. Also, you can probably use the same cement board if you are careful getting it out.

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Old 01-02-2013, 08:07 PM   #17
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Nope, 1/4" is a no no under ceramic.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:43 PM   #18
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


We aren't installing ceramic, we are putting in travertine.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:06 PM   #19
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Julie,

You've gone a little too far already. There's been no discussion about your joists. Chances are they have too much deflection to meet min. specs for natural stone tiles. Stone requires a subfloor system that is much stiffer than for ceramic.

So, we only know your home was built in 1940, we don't know how it's framed. Tell us the; type and size of the joists, species and grade if possible, on center spacing and the unsupported span to the inch. This give us an indication how stiff the joists are if installed right and still in perfect condition.

The other element is the deflection between the joists. This is handled by the subfloor/underlayment system. Need to know the size of the planks and their condition. Lets start there.

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Old 01-03-2013, 07:17 AM   #20
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


When I ran a deflecto calculator I got a number of 640

Joists, douglas fir in good condition.
Joist height 2x8
Joist width 2"
16" on center
10ft spacing

The plank floor:
tongue and groove run on a diagonal, good condition, nailed down not screwed.
Just shy of 1" in thickness
The boards are 5" wide.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:29 AM   #21
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


You need to let us know when you have heating in the floor!

That changes a lot of things----

what brand----loose cable of pad? I'm not the best person to answer heating pad questions,But I'll try---Mike----
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:50 AM   #22
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Lol, see? That's how green we are. No idea that floor heating changes anything.
It's not in yet....but we bought an electric mat (warmly yours) 3ftx10ft. 120v I believe.
Good thing these forums exsist! Hubby is an artist with drywall, taping, mud and beads. His California ceilings are fit for magazines.....but flooring boggles our minds!
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:00 AM   #23
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Post a link to the product so we can read the instructions---

just general rules----most mats go over the plywood---some are pressed into a bed of thinset--other have a sticky back---with the use of hot melt glue to help with any parts that won't stick--

Then the entire floor is covered with self leveling compound---after that, the tile can be set without further prep--or Ditra could be laid over the top of the self leveler--

Like I said---I'm not the best person to answer your questions----

Also--the exposed elements are VERY easy to damage---so buy the 'toner' that should be available to make sure that the unit is working during the install---
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:41 AM   #24
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


http://m.homedepot.ca/product/Produc...908186&lang=EN

That's the link for the pad we bought.
Contrary to what my family and friends think, I actually find this reno stuff fun!! Even the hurdles and bumps in the road. Its like solving a big puzzle
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:55 AM   #25
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Thanks for the link---I went to their web site and could not pull up the instruction manual--

Now I need to leave for work----I can be very satisfying to do a project---Mike----
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:42 PM   #26
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
--or Ditra could be laid over the top of the self leveler--
Does anyone have any experience with how Ditra "insulates" the effect of the heating elements? (slow to warm the tile, etc.)
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:50 PM   #27
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


OK, so your joists seem to be up to par for ceramic tiles, but have a little too much deflection for natural stone tiles. What have you decided about that? Are you keeping the planks or installing 3/4" subfloor instead?

After solving that issue if you keep the planks, I recommend at least 1/2" underlayment over the 5" planks if they are in excellent condition, flat not cupped. Otherwise I'd go with 5/8" or 3/4".

Some where in this process you need to get the floor flat. There's many variables still open for change so we're gonna have too go over this whole thread again to know what's been decided.

Ditra goes over your warming mat. There should be very little heat lose, but there's no choice.

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Old 01-05-2013, 06:22 PM   #28
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


We sistered the joists and built a support wall under the bathroom (unfinished laundry room...so yay! Now its enclosed!)
3/8" ply.....now we are investigating laticrete and ditra.

This is good...yes?
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:30 PM   #29
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Julie---Jaz has a lot of experience with heating mats of all types---Please wait and see if he can answer your heat mat questions---or one of our other members---I'm not up to speed on them---
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:32 PM   #30
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egads, do I need to rip out my cement board and start again?


Schluter page about heated floors. I believe this talks about radiant heat systems that are the heat source and warming mats that just warm the tiles. http://www.schluter.com/5560.aspx

A few years ago I re-tiled a kitchen with warming mats under the old tiles installed by someone else less then a year earlier. Concrete backer over plywood, heat mats, then SLC or thinset (?) then tiles set with a rug pattern around the table. The work was barely passable, in low lighting, but the mosaic rug pattern was not to par. Anyhow, we decided to go over the old tiles with Ditra and then a high-end porcelain set in the Versailles pattern. (Monocibec Graal color Arras, what a beautiful tile).

I have had an opportunity to see the work and ask about the efficiency of the warming wires. They reported the warming mat works just fine even though there's a couple extra layers. They think it may take an extra 15 minutes to get warm, but once heated the floor stays that way longer.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Jaz

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