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Old 02-24-2013, 05:09 AM   #31
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Yep----I doubt if any tile setter is thrilled to get a call that starts with," I just have one loose tile,,,,,,,,"

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Old 02-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #32
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I have to cut two new 13" tiles with a neat straight line. Can that be done on a 10" table saw with the right blade/wheel? Should I be able to mount a grinding wheel on it. I would lay down a piece of plywood to protect the table top.



Not mine but I have one.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:58 PM   #33
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See if an 8 inch diamond blade will fit the arbor---any dry cut often gets hot and chips the heck out of the cut-----

Also---Lowes used to make cuts for customers for a couple of bucks---call and ask if they still do it----

Any dry cut
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #34
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I am revoving more tiles and sub floor than I planned, but this gives me room to get in there and shore up the flooring supports. I will sort of follow this plan.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:37 PM   #35
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That little job sure has grown up!

Wet saws come in all prices----even the cheapest one will do a passable job,if you decide to purchase one---
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
See if an 8 inch diamond blade will fit the arbor---any dry cut often gets hot and chips the heck out of the cut-----

Also---Lowes used to make cuts for customers for a couple of bucks---call and ask if they still do it----

Any dry cut
Having it done at Lowes it the ticket. Maybe if I just drive around the neighborhood I will spot a guy doing some tiling work and give him a few bucks to make those two cuts.

I just posted some final plans.

I am kind of glad I opened up up a bit. Now I can see that it is nice and dry under there.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
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That little job sure has grown up!

Wet saws come in all prices----even the cheapest one will do a passable job,if you decide to purchase one---
It sounds like I could save a lot of money and pick up some DIY tools at Harbor Freight. I may just finish the framing, subfloor, and backer board and pay some guy to do the four tiles. The guy across the street is having a $20,000+ water damage job done right now by a buddy that has a restoration company and I could probably work a deal
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:15 PM   #38
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I am back after having to take a few days off and still can't touch the floor for a couple of days. Meanwhile, I looked at what they ripped up out of the neighboors bathroom, which is having some extensive repoairs done at the expense of some insurance company.

The subfloor is 23/32" tongue and groove Oxboard Strud-I-Board manufactured by POtlatch (an OSB product). When I measure it, I swear it is a full 3/4" and I want to match the depth of the present floor, but am wondeing if the 1/32nd differential is due to swelling of the floor.

I will probably only be replacing an 18x16" section of subfloor in the affected corner and so far doubt that I will come up against a tongue and roof seam. Before buying material, I will cut the existing board to see just what I have, but assuming no t&g seams aew involved should I just use vanilla 23/32 OSB from HD or pay a premium for sturdiboard? If I use regular OSB sheathing I can get a piece of scrap for a couple of bucks, but will spend the $36 for floor rated OSB if it is needed?

Would it be better to use 23/32" plywood in that one corner? Some guy at the HD was telling me to use CDX. Unless I know the indivicual pretty well I have little faith in guys at HD.

I will screw both the subfloor and the 1/4" HardiBaord.

I am wondering if I use either if I need to seal the edges where cut. Some OSB is supposed to be sealed for moisture.

I live in Southern Cali about 15 miles inland of the ocean and on the inland side of coastal mountains so weather is mild.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:25 PM   #39
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Use what you have or can get from the scrap bin----paint all sides with whatever paint you have around the house---flat is important---so be careful when installing the patch---set the backer board into some thinset to fill voids----

Keep us informed----Mike-----
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:30 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Use what you have or can get from the scrap bin----paint all sides with whatever paint you have around the house---flat is important---so be careful when installing the patch---set the backer board into some thinset to fill voids----

Keep us informed----Mike-----

Sounds good and understood. Thanks more.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:35 PM   #41
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Resumed work on the floor today. Had stopped to pack a stent in. Ridiculous what the docs can do. this has to be the gift that keeps on giving. The more I demo the more needs to be cut back.

At least the cost of materials stays the same. A half sheet of Hardi board and a sheet of flooring, of which half goes in the scrap pile.

I should have been installing the 2x4 supports today, but then I ran into a chase for an air duct which left nothing to hang the 2by on, so I cut back the third row of tiles from the tub.

At least my hole will be large enough to give me room to work.

And that multi tool is getting a workout.

One question. When I removed that last row of tiles I came upon the seam between two sheets of Hardiboard. I was thinking that given the location it would be a good spot to locate the seam of the new board and reduce cutting of the old board. Problem I am thinking is that the old subfloor may be weakened when I pull the nails out holding the tub side old cement board. Am I better off to cut the board 5" in towards the tub (leaving a 5' stip of old board).

A couple more pics are attached.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:22 AM   #42
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Oh,boy-----This little job just gets bigger and bigger----
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:33 PM   #43
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Much of the hardi board is glued to the OSB sub floor with a very thin coat of thin set, but it is a mother to get the hardi up without damage to the OSB. I think o'mike sort of answered my question before it was even asked, which is how to get get the cement board off without destroying the OSB, when he suggested saving old multi tool flush cut blades for removing thin set.

So far I am practicing with an old blade and a chisel on an area that will be cut out.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:43 PM   #44
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Ugly job---this is why I don't do repairs---
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:44 PM   #45
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and uglier, but in a way is kind of pretty. If I knew what awaited me undet the floor I would have simply popped off the row of tiles along the tub, replaced am 8" strip of subflooirng, perhaps 10" if I count chisseling out the yuck under the edge of the tup and slipping the strip in a couple of inches.

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