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-   -   damaged subfloor by tub (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/damaged-subfloor-tub-171332/)

Klawman 02-07-2013 07:35 PM

damaged subfloor by tub
 
6 Attachment(s)
I would greatly appreciate suggestions as to what to do about this.

I found the damage when I pulled back a section of baseboard that abutted the lowest tile along the head of the shower/tub wall. It had some black mold or something on its surface.

When I pulled the base board back the lowest wall tile came loose. I was able to extricate it without damaging the tile and hope to glue it back in place.

The first thing I found was that a nail driven through the hardie backer. The board was crushed and the chipboard under it was broken up. The fibres of the exposed part of the chipboard was loose. (The tile didn't run all the way up against the wall.)

The crushed area of hardie board came right up along with pieces of the underlaying chip board as well as parts of chipboard that had been between the edge of the tile and inner wall.

What should I do?

A. I believe that the hardie backer should be attached to the chipboard with thin set. If so, should I be able to cut the hardie board back farther than the chipboard so as to offset any seam? I would do so by cutting a line just the depth of the hardie board.

B. If the hardie board cannot be be removed as in A, I guess I have no choice but to go in though the first floor ceiling. Should I do this regardless to better assess any leaks or problems beneath the tub?

I would like to affect the repair with as little expense and work as possible, but want it done reasonable well.

Pictures and a schematic are uploaded.

joecaption 02-07-2013 07:39 PM

Can you back up and take another so we can see somthing besides a hole?

Klawman 02-07-2013 07:52 PM

Sorry that those pics didn't show much. I added a couple more for what they are worth.

joecaption 02-07-2013 09:23 PM

If you want this done right your looking at a total gut job.
The floor and the walls shot.
Also going to have to add some blocking under that floor to support it.

Klawman 02-07-2013 09:38 PM

Not what I wanted to hear, JoeCaption, but pretty much what I thought may be the case. By a total gut job, I guess you mean tearing up the tiles, hardie board, and chipboard and then replacing or repairing joists as needed. Do you think the tub has to be pulled? I was thinking that I can access what is going on there, and with the plumbing, if I cut into the ceiling below.

How did you conclude that the walls are trashed. I don't think they can be seen in those pics and they look okay from what I can see - so far.

Possibly your experience and the fact that water that got into the chipboard lilkely seeped down the wall.

joecaption 02-07-2013 10:03 PM

Going to ahve to climb under the house to see just how far it's rotted.
Looks like I can see where waters been running down the floor jost.

Klawman 02-08-2013 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1112122)
Going to ahve to climb under the house to see just how far it's rotted.
Looks like I can see where waters been running down the floor jost.

Three things.

I won't be climbing under the house. I wish. This is on the second story of stucco house built on a slab, which means I have to open some walls or a ceiling to see better what is going on.

I think I see what you mean by the water stains, the whitish mineral stains. I have tested them with by trying to shove a screwdriver into the wood and cannot find any dry rot, which is not to say that I shouldn't open the ceiling up below the problem area to check things more carefully.

Lastly, I erred when I said that the joists run parallel to the tub. I was looking at what I call a block. The joist in the photos runs perpindicular to the tub and where the block appears to be a 2X7 the joist looks to be a 2x8. (Romex that isn't viewable in those pictures runs under the 2X7)

Did I say that I appreciate you giving me your advice? Thank you.

oh'mike 02-08-2013 05:03 AM

Klawman---That is a frequent sighting----a fix can be done without to much work--

If you own a Multi-tool you could have that fixed in a few hours.

first cut back the hardi board 2 to 3 inches from the tile---remove that--

Then cut the OSB out an inch or two from the remaining backer board----

You need a screwing surface---so leave a border at the tub,also--

Using a strong builders adhesive ,like PL Premium, glue in some 2x4 blocking to support a new piece of subfloor---Pin it into place with screws---

Add the new sub floor using glue and screws.

Replace the missing Hardi board---use some thinset under it---

Replace the tile----

That will do----until it's time for an entire bath floor----a magnetic shower curtain might help prevent that "escaping water' damage---

Klawman 02-08-2013 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1112226)
Klawman---That is a frequent sighting----a fix can be done without to much work--

If you own a Multi-tool you could have that fixed in a few hours.

first cut back the hardi board 2 to 3 inches from the tile---remove that--

Then cut the OSB out an inch or two from the remaining backer board----

You need a screwing surface---so leave a border at the tub,also--

Using a strong builders adhesive ,like PL Premium, glue in some 2x4 blocking to support a new piece of subfloor---Pin it into place with screws---

Add the new sub floor using glue and screws.

Replace the missing Hardi board---use some thinset under it---

Replace the tile----

That will do----until it's time for an entire bath floor----a magnetic shower curtain might help prevent that "escaping water' damage---


That is pretty much what I had been thinking can be done, unless the damage is more extensive than it looks from the small hole opened up. Especially given it is located in a corner which is never stepped on.

By a multi tool I suppose you mean something like a rotozip. I have a Dremel, which is like a rotozip on tranquilizers, but it should get this small job done. I may even treat myself to a sawsall, which is something I could have used long ago, just to make it easier to get in close to the tub and walls.

Canarywood1 02-08-2013 02:18 PM

This is what he means.


http://www.sears.com/fein-power-tool...&blockType=G10

djlandkpl 02-08-2013 02:19 PM

If the tile is on Hardie board, be sure to use a dust mask when you cut it out. The dust it generates is not good for you.

Klawman 02-08-2013 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 1112484)

Thanks, Canarywood. I just got back from HD. They don't carry Fein, but I don't need Fein quality. Theirs are all $99, albeit Rigid, Milwaukee or whatever.

Klawman 02-08-2013 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djlandkpl (Post 1112485)
If the tile is on Hardie board, be sure to use a dust mask when you cut it out. The dust it generates is not good for you.


That is a good idea. I don't need health problems.

Canarywood1 02-08-2013 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Klawman (Post 1112547)
Thanks, Canarywood. I just got back from HD. They don't carry Fein, but I don't need Fein quality. Theirs are all $99, albeit Rigid, Milwaukee or whatever.


I didn't mean to promote Fein,just used the first thing i saw as an illustration.

Klawman 02-09-2013 03:39 PM

Cutting Hardi Board with Muti Tool
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 1112592)
I didn't mean to promote Fein,just used the first thing i saw as an illustration.

I am ready to buy a oscillating multi tool, but have one question which is will they cut the Hardie BackerBoard? I will use a dust mask.


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