[Cjohn]

I'm replacing linoleum in our bathroom with tile, and am planning to install 1/4 cement board underneath. Our bathroom is really small and has small sections/walls that protrude, and I was wondering if anyone has any tips for cutting notches into cement board. Everything I can find on cement board seems to assume that every room is built for perfectly straight cuts!

Thanks!

[joecaption]

http://www.contractorsdirect.com/Til...Scoring-Cutter

I make the long cuts with a carbite tipped ciruler saw.

Make sure to wear a dust mask.

[Cjohn]

Unfortunately I don't think that will work in my case, as some of the parts that are protruding are only 4 to 5 inches across and a couple inches deep.

[joecaption]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...cutting+shears

[JazMan]

I have this strange feeling that Cjohn is not interested in buying a CBU shears ($200-300) to do his tiny bath floor. Just a feeling though.

You can make small "U" cuts into concrete board with even just a razor knife and a few other regular tools, but it can take some time. Alternatively you can cut the larger sheet into smaller pieces so you'd be making "L" instead of "U" cuts. A carborundum blade on a sabre saw is available too.

The easiest and cheap way is to use a side grinder like this.http://www.google.com/imgres?q=side+...9,r:0,s:0,i:88

Some are available for under $40 and Harbor Freight should have one for under $20. It's a tool you'l use many time including to score the concrete board & certain tile cuts maybe.

It does produce dust so use it outside with a fan behind you blowing the dust away. A mask is smart.

Jaz

[Hardwood Head]

Sawz-all with a metal blade, no dust no fuss

[Cjohn]

You nailed it Jazman--lot looking to spend that much on a $200 bathroom tile job . Thanks for the tips, it looks like that grinder is probably the best option. Thank you all for your advice!

[mnp13]

I used my RotoZip with a cement blade on it. Very easy to use and really precise because it's small and light.

[tacomahardwood.]

Drill about a million holes it and connect the dots with a chisel . Tinme consuming , But the least of buying a bunch of tools , Also a scribe will work , Just scribe it about 20 times till you work a weak spot , Drill the corners tacomahardwoodfloors.com

[Bumpr1080]

I just finished a huge siding/trim project with 1/4 hardi plank. we used a simple diamond cement 7.5" circular blade for our miter and table saw. Works just fine.

[Cjohn]

TacomaHardwood--Did you use a special drill bit?

[JazMan]

Originally Posted by Cjohn

TacomaHardwood--Did you use a special drill bit?

Yes, he probably uses one that will last long enough to make a million holes.

You're not actually thinking of doing that are you?

Jaz

[Cjohn]

I have to cut out a hole for the toilet flange as well, and I was thinking some drill holes would work best for that, unless there's a better option?

[JazMan]

I have to cut out a hole for the toilet flange as well, and I was thinking some drill holes would work best for that, unless there's a better option?

I already gave you the answer in post #5 above. Use a grinder if you have one. Of course drilling a bunch of holes will work too.

In the old days when Wonderboard first came out we didn't use or know of all these many tools available today. We made a hole by first scoring the surface and embedded mesh with a regular utility knife or laminate scriber, and then tap with a hammer to complete the hole. So, I recommend the grinder with a fan blowing or a jig saw with appropriate blade.

Jaz

[gregzoll]

Instead of Cement Board, the better option is Georgia-Pacific's DensGuard http://gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=6388 or DensShield http://gp.com/build/densshield-tilebacker-board I used DensShield for our bath floor, and it is easy to work with, and holds up as good as Cement Board.