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-   -   a couple of ceramic tile install Q's (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/couple-ceramic-tile-install-qs-22617/)

DanBress 06-22-2008 09:31 AM

a couple of ceramic tile install Q's
 
I have my 3/4" plywood installed as a subfloor for my kitchen and adjacent breakfast nook. I checked the deflection on the joists and they look good for tile installation. I am getting ready to install my hardibacker and have a few questions.

I'm planning on installing the hardibacker over the next two days, but I dont have my tile picked out. Is it going to be OK to walk on the hardibacker for a few days before the tile is installed?

I haven't drilled the holes where the plumbing will come through the floor. When do you recommend doing this? Now(through just the plywood subfloor)? After the CBU is installed(through the plywood and the cbu)? or after the tile is installed(through the plywood, cbu, and tile)?

As I said, I am tiling two adjacent rooms. It is recommended that I place one piece of backerboard in the doorway that connects the two rooms, so that I do not have a joint in the doorway?

In some places, the subfloor joints are about 1/8" uneven, one is 1/8" higher than the other. How would you handle that? with additional thinset? with a luan shim of some sort?

There are a couple of doorways in the rooms where I am tiling. Where should the CBU and the tiles end w/ respect to the doorways? Slightly outside the doorway? Directly underneath the door/doorway? the other flooring is hardwood over 3/4" subfloor, so i expect that my tile will sit about 1/4" above the existing hardwood.

Thanks for your advice.

Dan

Bud Cline 06-22-2008 01:46 PM

Quote:

I'm planning on installing the hardibacker over the next two days, but I dont have my tile picked out. Is it going to be OK to walk on the hardibacker for a few days before the tile is installed?
Yip! Install it then stay off of it over night. The next day you can walk on it without worry.:)


Quote:

I haven't drilled the holes where the plumbing will come through the floor. When do you recommend doing this? Now(through just the plywood subfloor)? After the CBU is installed(through the plywood and the cbu)? or after the tile is installed(through the plywood, cbu, and tile)?
Do it after the backerboard is installed.:yes: Don't do it after the tile.:no:

Quote:

As I said, I am tiling two adjacent rooms. It is recommended that I place one piece of backerboard in the doorway that connects the two rooms, so that I do not have a joint in the doorway?
GOOD LUCK with that concept!!!:( See how it goes.:)

Quote:

In some places, the subfloor joints are about 1/8" uneven, one is 1/8" higher than the other. How would you handle that? with additional thinset? with a luan shim of some sort?
Sand and feather those edges right now. If you don't they will screw up your tilebacker and there's no easy fix if that happens.

Adding more thinset for that type of adjustment is asking for trouble, it's not as easy or successful as some make it sound.:no:

NEVER use luan anywhere in a tile installation NEVER.:no:


Quote:

There are a couple of doorways in the rooms where I am tiling. Where should the CBU and the tiles end w/ respect to the doorways? Slightly outside the doorway? Directly underneath the door/doorway? the other flooring is hardwood over 3/4" subfloor, so i expect that my tile will sit about 1/4" above the existing hardwood.
Typically you split the center of the door, if there is a door. If it is an arched opening (with no door) then the choice is yours.:)

I suppose you know to "undercut" all the door jambs and casings???:yes:

DanBress 06-22-2008 02:35 PM

OK. to fix the unlevel issue, I got some of the custom building products patch leveler. not the regular leveling compound, but stuff thats for fixing small spots. we will see how that goes.

I just got a jamb saw that i'll use to take to try and cut out the jambs. I think I can figure that out.

Thanks for the help

JazMan 06-22-2008 09:03 PM

It doesn't matter where the seams in the CBU are. They will all get thinset and mesh tape, so they will be stronger than the CBU itself.

Using a patching material is no different than using thinset or other material. Why is one side higher than the other? That is what to fix. Subfloor panels should be within 1/32" in plane of each other.

Don't forget to leave a gap between the hardwood and the last tile. You'll probably want an "L" type tile edging, and consider a "T" hardwood molding for the transition.

Jaz

DanBress 06-22-2008 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan (Post 132766)

Using a patching material is no different than using thinset or other material. Why is one side higher than the other? That is what to fix. Subfloor panels should be within 1/32" in plane of each other.

Jaz

When should i tape/thinset the CBU joints? as they are being installed so they can cure, or as I am tiling.

Not totally sure why I have un even plane. my house is almost 100 years old, and the foundation is a weird stone/morter build up that isn't totally level. In some places the joists settled slightly below the foundation, so the subfloor sits on the foundation and causes un evenness.

I'm not sure there is anything I can/want to do about it now aside from trying to level it out a little on the top. bad idea?

JazMan 06-22-2008 10:01 PM

Dan,

I always taped as the last step of the CBU installation. Sometimes there is a time problem and I would do it the next morning. Many like to tape as they tile because they might create a "speed bump". I never had that problem, and find taping at the time of tiling can cause other issues. If you tape before, be sure to use a 6" flex knife and don't make bumps.

Maybe you need to take a good look at that floor? You don't need level, but you do need flat. Ceramic tiles don't bend much.:laughing:

Take a 6-8 ft. straight edge and see if the floor is flat. Tile requires flat within 1/4" in 10 ft. AND 1/16" in 12". Doesn't sound like you're close to that. Lets us know what you find.

Jaz


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