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Old 03-26-2012, 08:16 PM   #1
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Concrete garage floor.


Hi guys.

I am new to the DIY world but I have to say that with every project I fall in love more and more. I am a first time home owner and slowly doing one part of the house at a time. My current project is redoing the garage so not only I can take pride in my work but so I can free up the walk in closet upstairs that is currently filled with paint cans and tools (maybe a future pantry).

I have already painted the garage a light blueish grey and put slatwall on one of the walls. (found someone on craigslist selling it for $50 a box).

Next I want to tackle the floor which has worn paint in the middle (where the car is parked) and chipping on the perimeter of the garage. It is not epoxy but I dont know what type of paint that was used. All I know is that its ugly and it has to go.

The options I am currently debatting are:

1- Rent a floor maintainer from HD for 45/day with a sanding attachment.
2- Buy the product HD recommended which sounds like a paint stripper.
3- Try those new soy based products I keep hearing about that are low fumes.

If it helps, I plan on putting down VCT flooring so if any of you have suggestions about post "stripping" the paint I could use that too (ie. Primer, sealer for the concrete pre-adhesive).

Thank you all and I will take some pics tomorrow so I can show you guys my working progress. Its nice to talk to people that love this stuff. My friends are getting tired of me talking about my projects (I am only 23).

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Old 03-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #2
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It's great to have some space where you can work. And most garage floors keep the room ugly no matter how much work you put into the walls.

I had old (1925), cracked and heaved concrete, including a 3' extension someone had added that had dropped down about an inch. Epoxy wasn't an option. VCT was out too, since it needs a very flat surface.

I ended up going with ceramic tile when I saw them on sale at Home Depot for .59/sf. I'd never set tile before, but I did a little Googling and learned enough to be dangerous.

I don't know of any floor treatment for a garage that accomplishes everything, but for me, ceramic has been awesome.







I even put tile on the top of my lift. It's held up fine.





If I had it to do again, I might go with porcelain, which is even stronger. But that's not a complaint. I've just learned more in the years since I set down my tile.

This picture shows the filling I did to get the floor slightly more level. It still isn't flat, but my total outlay was only about $350.


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Old 03-27-2012, 03:04 PM   #3
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Your garage looks beautiful.
I have to admit I never considered ceramic/porcelain tiles as an option because I always thought they would crack under tire pressure. I have dropped things in the kitchen before and cracked tiles. I will consider them though. Is there a special type of tile of compound that you use to make it more resistant ?

BTW 911 is by far my favorite car.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imessano View Post
Your garage looks beautiful.
I have to admit I never considered ceramic/porcelain tiles as an option because I always thought they would crack under tire pressure. I have dropped things in the kitchen before and cracked tiles. I will consider them though. Is there a special type of tile of compound that you use to make it more resistant ?

BTW 911 is by far my favorite car.
Tiles are rated for hardness, moisture content, and coefficient of friction. The ratings help you know how strong, freeze-resistant, and slippery they will be.

But the big difference in tiles you see in bathrooms and kitchens and the ones you'd see in a public space is the way they're installed. For home/indoor applications, an installer will use a dabbed pattern of thinset (the cement-based adhesive) because that's the quickest way to do it. But this leaves voids between the tiles and the subfloor underneath it. Tiles are like concrete. They're very strong in compression, but not very strong in tension -- like when they're bridging a gap and downward pressure means they have to support a load like a bridge might. For a garage installation, you 'double butter' the thinset, which means you apply it to both the floor and the underside of the tile. This eliminates spaces the tiles would have to bridge, and the weight on top of the tiles is transferred straight down through the thinset to the concrete below.

Here's an illustration of their strength. I'm using a four-pound sledge hammer.

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Old 03-27-2012, 11:06 PM   #5
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That's a fact, Jack.

Jack is in California, but if you have a stable slab, tile is a good way to go. You can find ceramic tile on sale all the time for 57 cents/foot. If you keep your eyes open, you can find some porcelain for $1.00.

Now price out the epoxy coating.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:42 PM   #6
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Jack that really does look very strong. I didn't know tile could take that kind of beating.
I am going to keep my eyes open for some porcelain tiles on sale and if I can find some I will go that route.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:43 PM   #7
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Jack BTW what year is your 911 ?
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:40 AM   #8
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Nice garage Jack...is that a rotary dial phone I see on the wall?
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:01 PM   #9
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Thanks.

The 911 is a 1972, with a 1995 engine, a 1977 transaxle, 1986 brakes.

And yes, it's a rotary phone -- it was made in 1951 and still works great.


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