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irlizard 07-28-2006 03:39 PM

Concrete board installation HELP!
Can someone please tell me the procedure for using standard thinset mortar between the plywood subfloor and the hardi backerboard that I will be screwing in so I can lay tile? How thick should it be? What type of trowel? Should it be smooth or have those little ridges like when you lay tile? Should I squish the board down onto/into the thinset or set it gently and how tightly should I screw it down? Wow what a lot of questions! As you can tell Iím new at this so all help is greatly appreciated.:eek:

R&D Tile 07-28-2006 05:33 PM

Mix the thinset a little loose, but still stiff enough so that when you spread it, it holds the ridges without collapsing, use a 1/4x1/4" square notched trowel, set the board down on it, walk on it getting it down good, now screw it down tight every 6 to 8" throughout, use the Hardie screws and their square bit that comes in the box, a good corded drill or drywall gun works fine for this, screw it down so that the screws set themselves flush with the board.:)

Tape and thinset the seams while tiling with a good modified thinset.:)

ron schenker 07-28-2006 06:58 PM

R&D...the thinset under the Hardiboard should be non modified right? Why shouldn't you use modified?

R&D Tile 07-28-2006 07:44 PM

Some manufacturers say either or, I use unmodified, the thinset is there to just fill any voids between the boards and and the subfloor, not to adhere the boards, that's what the screws are for.:)

Besides, unmodified is alot cheaper.:yes:

irlizard 07-28-2006 08:35 PM

Thanks very much for the guidance and direction. I have grey unmodified for under the board and white latex modified for the seams and laying the tile. I have always used a cordless drill and am not terribly adept with it as a screw driver. I can’t screw straight and I can’t seem to push hard enough. Are these symptoms of the drills inept performance or the operator’s inept performance? Is this why I should use a corded drill and is that OK as a screwdriver?

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