ceramic tile to wood floor threshold

mattedfred · 11-20-2008, 12:28 PM

the wall may expand and if you butt the tile right against the wall or framing it may cause the tile to move

Floorwizard · 11-20-2008, 01:45 PM

Ahhh yes.
I did not think of that.

thanks.

Bud Cline · 11-20-2008, 08:53 PM

EVERYTHING expands and contracts, EVERYTHING.

Install ceramic tile on a wood substrate in a south-facing room with plenty of sunlight....the potential for disaster is tremendous.

Florcraft if you get Tile Magazine (Nov 2008) read an article by Dave Gobis in that issue you may learn a thing or two. It may be online also.

Floorwizard · 11-20-2008, 09:26 PM

I do not install over wood without Ditra or something that will keep expansion from affecting the tile.
But I get what you are saying...

thanks.

JazMan · 11-20-2008, 09:46 PM

Installing over Ditra does not eliminate the need for expansion joints around the perimeter OR in the field if the area is large enough.

Jaz

tishimself · 11-28-2008, 10:13 AM

If you install hardie over underlayment with modified thinset, doesn't the thinset fill in the expansion joints that were between the underlayment seams? I'm getting ready to do this and I have a tile job with a southern exposure getting alot of light from a patio door. Thanks for all the great info.

Bud Cline · 11-28-2008, 05:22 PM

Quote:

If you install hardie over underlayment with modified thinset, doesn't the thinset fill in the expansion joints that were between the underlayment seams?

Not if you caulk the seams first.

JazMan · 11-28-2008, 06:57 PM

You should treat all the seams, (subfloor, underlayment and CBU as directed by the thinset and CBU manufacturers. Some want you to keep thinset out of the underlayment seams, while others want you to fill them. Filling those seams will not necessarily prevent those seams from compressing, they will compress with latex modified thinset in there.

You're still supposed to install expansion joints in the field in all installations if they're large enough or under certain conditions such as direct sunlight and wet rooms. Expansion joints are placed in the CBU and directly over it in the tile.

Until a few years ago Hardie used to tell us to install an expansion joint in the center of any room both ways if the room was 15 ft. or larger in any direction, and where the room makes an "L". This was rarely done since most people didn't have or didn't read the directions anyway. Today's directions don't even bring up the subject of field expansion joints. Touchy subject I'm sure.

tishimself, that type of installation requires additional joints every 8-12 ft. in both directions.

Jaz

Dan V. · 11-28-2008, 09:35 PM

bjs,

To get back to your original question, as Bud said, you should tile to the center of the door jamb. Rather than a grout joint here, leave approx. 1/2" space and install a nice piece of T-molding or some other transition piece. Also, make sure you undercut the jambs with an undercut saw. Stack a piece of underlayment and a tile on the floor next to the jamb and rest your saw on this as you cut. This will give you a perfect height cut under the jamb that you can slide your tile under. Gives it a finished professional look.

Good luck!