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Old 12-03-2012, 09:35 AM   #16
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ceramic tile over OSB


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Originally Posted by Hammer450R View Post
Geez where do i start...did you pass framing inspection yet?

There are no inspections .. are you volunteering?

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Old 12-03-2012, 09:39 AM   #17
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Jazman is an expert--respected by all who know his work and teaching---

I ran a deflection chart for you---you are good for tile---458----minimum for tile? 360----- for natural stone ? 720.

Terrific! And that means what exactly? I know it means the deflection allowed in the floor but the question is how do we physically measure if there is deflection in the floor?
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:36 PM   #18
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Terrific! And that means what exactly? I know it means the deflection allowed in the floor but the question is how do we physically measure if there is deflection in the floor?
You don't have to measure it, we have charts that tell us the deflection if we have all the correct info. However, they make deflection dials or you could build a jig that would measure how much a joists sagged when loaded with a certain amount of weight.

The max deflection allowed in the industry for tilework is L360. (1/360). That means one inch sag in 360" of length or any part there of. That is also the min. code for non-sleeping rooms, which means it's the worst in can be to pass. Building to code is not something anyone should be proud of. Kinda like striving to get thru school with a D- average. You should build better than code.

Now that you remeasured the span at 12' 9", you're good. Yes, 2x10's measure 1.5x9.25. Using 3/4" subfloor and going ceramic for the kitchen and bath is the right thing to do.

As for the heat, follow the manufacturer's directions and you'll be fine. I like Ditra for floors like this. I like the uncoupling aspect of Ditra, helps reduce and hopefully eliminate shrinkage and expansion cracks.

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Old 12-03-2012, 08:14 PM   #19
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Thanks to Jaz and O'Mike

One last question then, for now. I have read the pdf from schulter http://www.schluter.com/media/articl...e_floor_us.pdf and I see that we first need to put down the latex modified mortar, however they do not give much detail on that part. They do not say for instance how thick that mortar should be, and whether to do the whole floor at one time. They do not say if the ditra should be embedded or laid over the mortar. From the picture it looks like we should lay the mortar and press the ditra in as we go? Could you outline the steps or provide a link to a document that does so?
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:27 PM   #20
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There's many articles and videos about Ditra installation. Try this; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1k

Come back with specific Q's.

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Old 12-03-2012, 09:54 PM   #21
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There are a couple areas we could help you with in "Insulation" if interested. Just post the same pictures over there in a new thread.

Gary
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:25 PM   #22
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Could you be a bit more specific? We have already insulated walls and roof. Roof has R32 with those styrene vent panels underneath.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:06 PM   #23
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We have already insulated walls and roof. Roof has R32
R32 is not enough for your area. You should have R49 - R60. http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...sulation_table

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Old 12-04-2012, 07:38 PM   #24
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Got me curious so I went and looked. R38 ceilings and R19 walls. Temperature outside right now at 6:30pm is 18f degrees, temp inside is 48f with no heating. Not the best but not too bad either wouldn't you agree?
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:00 PM   #25
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I didn't want to confuse your thread until done with flooring questions. R-49 is minimum code for your area (even less than "Energy star" as Jaz showed) Zone 6; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_par002.htm

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_sec002.htm

At the trapezoid window, with the 14"+- of wood total above/below at R-1.25 per inch of thickness, is there foamboard sandwiched between headers? If not, consider furring-out the wall/window jambs/head/sill, at least the non-stairwell side for better insulation thickness.

I don't see a sill pan under the windows, hopefully you have one under the doors; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...w_flashing.pdf

Interesting how the 1/2 log siding was installed (are they on spacer shims), how do the windows drain? What did they use for flashing at the heads?

Use rigid foamboard at all the rims not air-permeable Roxul or fiberglass; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...-at-rim-joist/

Looks as if you are making good headway, keep it up!

Gary
PS. Just read your answer, minimum is ok.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:03 PM   #26
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Hi Gary

Thanks for your interest in our project.

I believe the R38 was recommended by the local lumber yard to keep costs down. We have a 150K total budget for this project of which we are currently at 2/3 thirds with most materials on hand. Code or not, we started out with a very dry basement that had a tin roof on it and R13 insulation in the walls and ceiling. Locals tell us the basement was built during the 70's cold war era by a local guy that was working on a nearby missile installation pouring concrete, and the materials were "liberated" to build the basement. It is military grade for sure. Very hard and thick and not a crack anywhere after 40 years. The R13 is still in the basement and we have no intention of tearing out all the drywayy to replace it at this point

The log siding is solid log, 9" wide by 2.5" thick in the middle. Underneath that is 1/2" OSB covered with house wrap. The logs are screwed directly through to the 2x6 studs and have been chinked to seal out any drafts.

The window and door openings were all flashed out with 6" window and door flashing, then the windows/doors installed and more flashing over the nailing fins. We have not installed drain pans and to be honest I never knew we had to! Is this for the weep holes on the outside of the windows? If so they are all flashed and chinked for drainage.

We have not used foamboard anywhere but we have used a lot of great stuff in corners, crevices and cracks

Our HVAC guy tells us that he is very happy with the tightness of the building and doesnt feel we will need a lot of propane to maintain comfortable temps throughout the winter. He is putting in the radiant floor heat system with hot water for tubs and sinks, and doing the plumbing, and also installing mini splits for A/C in the summer. In fact, so far the plumbing and heating have been the most expensive part of the budget, eating up 1/4 of it, which are things we don't feel comfortable doing ourselves.

I really need to take some newer photo's as these were taken during the spring and we have progressed a long way since then.

PS: The way we did the window and door trim with log was to rip 4" strips from the middle of log siding, which gave us pieces the were essentially 4" wide by 2.5" deep lengths of lumber. They were screwed around the outside edges of the windows and doors and then caulked to prevent water intrusion. The log siding was then butted up to it and we have since added chinking around all seams. I will get pics so you can see how it all came together with the chinking.
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Last edited by snowchild; 12-04-2012 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:50 AM   #27
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Getting back to that 2nd floor which is currently covered with 1/2 osb glued and nailed to engineered beams, will it be ok to nail and glue 3/4" T&G finish floorboards over that surface or do we have to put down sheet material? We need to avoid too much thickness because of the radiant floor. In the bathroom area of that floor we would lay 3/4" floor grade OSB instead of the 3/4" T&G then tile over that.

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