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Old 03-23-2010, 08:21 AM   #1
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ceramic tile in kitchen


totally gutting the kitchen. As far as the floor. Would anyone know how i need to start the floor. I want to put down ceramic tile. What do i need to put down first and what type of board do i use to attack the ceramic. Everything i find has an existing floor to work on. I will have no existing floor. There was a leak in the kitchen and i feel better just tearing it all up.

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Old 03-23-2010, 04:33 PM   #2
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Everything i find has an existing floor to work on. I will have no existing floor.
OK, this is making no sense! Have you removed the subfloor to expose the floor joists?

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There was a leak in the kitchen and i feel better just tearing it all up.
What exactly have you done so far or what exactly do you intend to do, step by step by step by step?

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Old 03-24-2010, 07:56 AM   #3
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haven't taken up the floor yet but that is the plan. Down to the floor joists. starting all new. so i need to know what kind of flooring to put down before i put the tile on. thanks.........
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:07 PM   #4
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I just completed a porcelain tile floor in our kitchen. If you are removing everything down to the joists I would recommend adding new 3/4 plywood and hire an old fashioned type flooring professional to set a mud base down for you. That is if your joists below are structural sound for the extra weight. Then you could do the tile work yourself which should go pretty easily with a quality "mud" job first.
Just my 2 cents worth....
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:28 PM   #5
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so i need to know what kind of flooring to put down before i put the tile on. thanks.........
Use 3/4" tongue and groove plywood. Then use tile backerboard on top of that. The backerboard must be set (100%) in fresh thinset.

The mud-base is a good idea but will cost an arm and a leg to have done correctly these days and will create elevation issues to adjacent rooms, not at all necessary or practical for that matter.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:56 AM   #6
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ceramic tile in kitchen


Thanks for your advice. I think i understand the floor now. But i do have one more question.... Putting new drywall in the kitchen sooooo.... Put the drywall up first or the floor down first? Also considering radiant floor heat. Currently have electric baseboard. They are unsightly and in the way. Any suggestions? here are some pics of the mostly gutted kitchen. Oh also the floors currently are original tongue and groove wood with lots of extras on top.
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:31 PM   #7
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Take a look at the baseboards. They will have a label showing the wattage output. The easiest meathod is to match or beat what they give out and install that in the floor.

If you just want floor warming, that's easy. If you want it to be your primary heating source, then use a low voltage system instead of line voltage. You can adjust how much heat low voltage will put out and it will last 25 years. Line voltage is not adjustable and it has a 10 year warranty. You can also cut the low voltage element and splice it into the shower floor and/or heat the seat if there is one. It's the only true waterproof heating element that can do this.
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:06 PM   #8
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Check out the Schluter website (they make Ditramat) for very good information on subfloor preparation for ceramic tile. Depending on the stiffness of your floor joists, you may need two layers of subfloor, typically 3/4 inch boards placed diagonally with plywood over them. Also depends on the size of tile you plan to use. The mud mat or cement board adds no strength, simply provides a surface to tile to.
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:22 PM   #9
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The so called "mud mat" (deck mud) if done in old style fashion DOES add strength, cement boards do not.

Even if DITRA Mat is used the minimum requirement is 5/8" t&g plywood over the joists. DITRA also does not offer any additional structural value.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:12 AM   #10
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Mudset, really is great, but unreasonable in most home because they were not build to handle a mudset installation both in height and weight. 3/4" tounge and groove set with 1/8" spacing between the boards then 1/2" cement backerboard thinset and nailed down and skimcoat thinset into all the joints between the board. That is your best bet more than likely.

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