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Old 05-19-2017, 01:47 PM   #16
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


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Grouting brick would be difficult, as the face of the brick would suck up regular grout like a sponge. You might have to go with mortar applied with a cement bag or something similar.

.

I have used this product once to reface our chimney. And I used a type S mortar for the grout....by far the most challenging part because of what you mentioned. They say you can seal the brick and then apply grout using a sponge, but it's still pretty messy. The product said to use Versabond modified thinset. I assumed I'd use the same product for flooring....probably going with a 1/4" cement board to build up the subfloor beyond 3/4"

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Old 05-19-2017, 03:36 PM   #17
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


I think that product would be likely to develop cracks within a few years due to, as the manufacturer would say, inappropriate subfloor. A single 3/4" subfloor over basic framing construction at 16" oc is not going to be enough. I'd like to read the specs they recommend though.

In general though, natural stone tiles needs to meet L720 deflection for both the framing and the subfloor....especially the subfloor, AND always needs a double layer of subfloor that totals 1 1/4", such as 2x 5/8".

Then of course there's the maintenance issue with this type of floor in a mudroom. I think it's a bad choice for both reasons.

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Old 05-21-2017, 05:32 AM   #18
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


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I think that product would be likely to develop cracks within a few years due to, as the manufacturer would say, inappropriate subfloor. A single 3/4" subfloor over basic framing construction at 16" oc is not going to be enough. I'd like to read the specs they recommend though.

In general though, natural stone tiles needs to meet L720 deflection for both the framing and the subfloor....especially the subfloor, AND always needs a double layer of subfloor that totals 1 1/4", such as 2x 5/8".

Then of course there's the maintenance issue with this type of floor in a mudroom. I think it's a bad choice for both reasons.

Jaz
In a typical 5' (59" after drywall) wide bathroom Why do tile guys lay tile (4) full tiles then (2) 5-1/4" tiles along each wall? Why not (3) full and (2) 11-1/4" tiles along the walls?
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Old 05-21-2017, 06:59 AM   #19
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


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That'd be my guess if it's rated for floors. Probably supposed to mimic pavers. Not my taste but it's also not my house.


https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...31848d3c3f.jpg


I love it!!! Looks early American/colonial. I think bricks were also commonly used in the kitchens then (much more likely to withstand wear and tear in a busy wet area than wood).

What was used to make the bricks glossy/shiny?
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:12 PM   #20
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The finish can be either a penetrating dealer or topcoat dealer which gives it a shiner look. Btw- the product says it is similar to ceramic not natural stone, so what would the deflection rating be for subfloors for ceramic tile?
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:28 PM   #21
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


If you want it to look like the pic we saw, you need to use a topical finish, that is not penetrating sealer.

I am not sure why you don't wanna share the specs, but "similar" to ceramic does not make it ceramic.

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Old 05-22-2017, 09:09 PM   #22
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


I would look more into ceramic tile that looks like brick. Since you are going for glossy finish it's going to look identical to ceramic tile. The bragging rights of real brick are not worth negatives to me i wouldnt install it for a customer.

FYI. . With a standard exterior door You can only install 1" of flooring before weather striping rubs. And forget about a door mat unless you want to raise door.

Last edited by JustinK; 05-22-2017 at 09:28 PM. Reason: Fyi
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:28 PM   #23
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Re: Cement board vs. Ditra


Really, lots of negatives? I've read through posts of many people in other forums. They've had their real brick floors (in kitchens, even) for many years/decades and they still look fantastic. Reading through their maintenance routines, it doesn't look all that hard to keep a brick floor looking good. Most of them used brick pavers (not the thick bricks used for walls) although the people who live in century (or older) houses probably have full brick floors.

It's very interesting. Lots of different techniques in filling the spaces between tiles and what sealer/finish to use.
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Old Yesterday, 09:44 PM   #24
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I might not trying to hide the specs. But I have not seen the specs and have yet to contact them. My point is, this brick is not natural stone. It doesn't weigh as much therefore I would assume doesn't require the same as travertine or the like. I don't care if you don't like the look, I'm asking about the subfloor. Currently we have carpet in our mudroom...it's been glued to a 1/2" hardboard so with our 3/4" plywood subfloor I'm at 1.25" but don't have near enough room to leave it all and install another 1.25 of flooring.

I mean how do people retrofit anything in homes that aren't brand new? It can't be that hard. If I tear up the carpet/1/2" board lay 1/2" cement board I would be fine but some say there's not a difference between 1/2" and 1/4" for the flooring. If not I'd rather use 1/4". Thoughts ?

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