nOc7:
Some information to keep in mind for a possible "next time":
If you ever replace your basement carpet:
1. put in a "pet pad". An underpad meant for pets is made from foam rubber, but they use less blowing gas so that the bubbles aren't interconnected. As a result, pet urine won't be absorbed by the pad, and won't pass through the pad. Similarily, if your sump pump backs up again, you need only dry out both sides of the underpad, and put it back in place.
2. Carpets are typically only made from three kinds of fiber; wool, nylon, polyester and polypropylene. Polypropylene is the only fiber that cannot be conventionally dyed. The only way to make coloured polypropylene fiber is to add coloured particles (called "pigments") to molten polypropylene before drawing that liquid plastic into a fiber (a process called "solution dying"). Since these pigments are thus encased in plastic, you can use bleach straight out of the jug on polypropylene carpets without concern for damage to them. Normally, in the carpet industry, polypropylene carpets are called "Olefin" carpets.
So, if you have pets, you can use bleach on the carpet after removing pet "accidents" to disinfect and sterilize the carpet where your pet had his accident. Similarily, you'd be able to use a Rug Doctor to shampoo your carpet with bleach to disinfect it after a flood. And, it occurs to everyone here, that you would have little to lose by getting one of those car mat size samples of any 100% Olefin carpet and torturing it with bleach just to prove it won't harm the carpet.
Similarily, solution dyed commercial nylon carpets can be cleaned with bleach without harming the carpet.
A note about renting carpet shampooers:
If you ever rent a carpet shampooer from a store, and feel compelled to follow the directions on the Rug Doctor or Easy Off machine, then make sure you do a second pass over your carpet with just clean water in your solution tank.
And, here's why... (and I'm not making any accusations here)
The reason for this is that both of these companies will advise you to use 1 to 2 fluid ounces of carpet shampoo per gallon of solution tank water. A more typical dilution rate for carpet cleaning would be about 1 to 2 fluid ounces of detergent per 5 gallons of solution tank water. Consequently, if you follow the directions Rug Doctor or Easy Off suggest, you'll be using about 5 times as much soap as professionals do in their own equipment.
Now, just like automobile engines are rated according to the number of cylinders and the horsepower, vaccuum motors are rated according to the number of stages and their "inches of water lift". A normal Hoover upright vaccuum cleaner will have a single stage vaccuum motor which will lift a column of water about 30 inches high at sea level. A shop style vaccuum cleaner or a rental carpet shampooer will have a two stage vaccuum motor which will lift a column of water about 55 inches high at sea level. A three stage vaccuum motor, which is what you typically find in entry level professional carpet cleaning machines, will lift a column of water about 80 inches high at sea level. My carpet extractor has two three stage vaccuum motors in parallel, and it'll lift a column of water about 130 inches at sea level (but I never tried it). And gasoline powered truck mounted units will have 6 to 8 three stage vaccuum motors all piped in parallel and will suck a golf ball through a garden hose.
You need this high vaccuum to remove as much of the dirty cleaning solution from your carpet as possible. The higher the vaccuum the more dirty cleaning solution you recover from your carpet after shampooing it, and the cleaner your carpet is when it's dry.
NOW. In the case of a rented carpet shampooer, if you follow the instructions you'll be using 5 times as much soap in your cleaning solution as a professional would. And, because the rental machines only have a two stage vaccuum motor, you leave behind a lot more cleaning solution in the carpet than the pro would. So, what happens? Well, as the carpet dries all that residual soap left in the carpet after shampooing remains behind as a thin sticky film on every carpet fiber in your carpet's pile. The result is that dirt sticks to your carpet like a magnet and normal vaccuuming to remove dirt becomes ineffective. In fact, the ONLY way to remove that dirt soap layer from your carpet is to shampoo it again, and dissolve that filthy soap film on your carpet fibers in more water. And, when people do that, they see that the recovery tank is absolutely filthy, and they conclude that this Rug Doctor or Easy Off machine really got their carpet clean (cuz the dirt had to come from somewhere, right?) In reality, it was the high soap content used to shampoo the carpet in the first instance that resulted in the carpet having too much soap in it after shampooing, and that made it predisposed to getting dirty quickly afterwards.
So, if you rent a carpet shampoo'er, and choose to follow the stupid instructions that come with it, then follow up the normal shampooing with a second pass using only clean water to remove the soap solution left in the carpet. That way you'll remove most of the residual soap in the carpet so that dirt doesn't stick to your carpet, and it can be removed normally with a vaccuum cleaner.
Now you also know why people that think "Well, 1 to 2 ounces per gallon doesn't sound like much. I'll pour half this gallon in and really get the carpet clean!" are just shooting themselves in the foot.
I can always tell when a tenant of mine has shampoo'd their carpet during their tenancy because I have to use 3 or 4 times as much defoamer to keep the foam under control in my recovery tank. Otherwise I'd get soap foam sucked into my vaccuum motors.