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Old 09-17-2009, 03:03 PM   #16
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can we install cement board(wonder board)


I hear ya...I agree too.

Get better soon!

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Old 09-17-2009, 08:46 PM   #17
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R&D's reply, "Wish you both the best of luck, you'll need it." was a good one. The OP knew he was proposing to do the work wrong but trying to get blessings. Itsreallyconc is suggesting to install the CBU wrong. He still hasn't picked up on that.

He states "the method describ'd is well-known & recommended by all suppliers/blenders/manufacturers of the products."

Sorry, but you are mistaken. Please take the time to learn how ALL CBU's are to be installed. I believe it is important to do the work correctly so the job will last as long as it should. A properly installed tiled floor could easily be in place for 40 years or longer.

Frankly I have little patience for people who call themselves pros but do their work contrary to accepted standards AND the the printed directions of the manufacturers. Proper directions are very easy to find these days, with these 'puter thingys we have.

Jaz
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:53 PM   #18
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Floor Installation


We recommend 1/4" HardieBacker® board for floor applications, unless 1/2" thickness is needed for transition.
  1. Ensure subfloor is structurally sound
    • On existing structures:
    • Ensure subfloor is not damaged. Replace any loose, warped, uneven or damaged sections of floor.
    • Make certain subfloor is a clean and flat surface.

    • For all floors:
    • Use minimum 5/8 exterior grade plywood or 23/32 OSB with Exposure 1 classification or better, complying with local building codes and ANSI A108.11.
    • Joist spacing not to exceed 24" on center.
    • The floor must be engineered not to exceed the L/360 deflection criteria (L/720 for natural stone), including live and dead design loads, for the specific joist spacing used.

  2. Determine layout of HardieBacker® cement board
    • Stagger all HardieBacker cement board joints. Do not align with subfloor joints.
    • Never allow all four corners of boards to meet at one point.
    • We recommend an 1/8" gap between board edges.
    • Keep sheet edges 1/8" back from walls and cabinet bases.
    • Score and snap boards to required sizes and make necessary cutouts.

  3. Attach HardieBacker® cement board to subfloor
    • Apply a supporting bed of mortar or modified thinset to subfloor using a 1/4" square-notched trowel.
    • Embed HardieBacker cement board firmly and evenly in the wet mortar.
    • Use the fastener pattern as a guide. Fasten HardieBacker cement board with specified nails or screws (as listed in "Materials Required") every 8" over the entire surface. Keep fasteners 3/8" from board edges and 2" in from board corners.
    • Set fastener heads flush with the surface without overdriving.

  4. Tape joints prior to tiling
    • Prior to setting the tile, fill all joints with the same mortar used to set the tiles.
    • Embed 2" wide high-strength alkali-resistant glass fiber tape in the mortar and level.
O.K. so I didn't post the directions verbatim. Now I have, still more useful than anything you posted, huh?
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:09 PM   #19
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www.custombuildingproducts.com/docs/WBIG 3_09.pdf?user=arc&lang=en
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Old 09-17-2009, 10:09 PM   #20
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You certainly didn't copy and paste that for my benefit, I already know all that. Maybe the concrete overlay man is reading the directions now though.

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Old 09-17-2009, 10:40 PM   #21
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Jazz,
The only point I am trying to make is offer up the information or where to find the information if you are going to comment. If you see someone making a recommendation that you know to be incorrect then interject with information you know to be correct. The statements that where posted where not at all useful to helping the OP understand the right way to do the install. Vague or smug statements are not useful to the OP or anyone that may view the thread looking for useful information.

Should people research their projects thoroughly before undertaking them? Yes. You and I both know it isn't always going to happen that way. This forum can be a learning tool for people to both learn from their mistakes as well as to prevent potential mistakes. I do not post on many of the threads for reasons already mentioned. When I do post I try to give helpful advice and avoid the smug remarks unless they are really warranted (sometimes they are and I fully acknowledge that) like when someone is trying to perform asbestos abatement with a household vacuum cleaner.

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