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-   -   Can I 'refinish' this? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/can-i-refinish-148908/)

Joe Dirt 07-02-2012 10:58 AM

Can I 'refinish' this?
 
We have a Bruce hardwood floor in our house, and some of the sections were absolutely trashed by the dogs of the PO.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...P1020760-1.jpg

There are other sections that just look like the finish is scraped off, and just looks bad. We're going to put in bamboo in a few years, can I re-seal this and somehow make it look a bit more presentable?

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/P1020761.jpg

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/P1020762.jpg


If I'm correct in what I've been reading online, I really can't sand this, since there isn't really much on top of the panels to sand before getting to the engineered wood underneath, yes? Here is a cross-section of the panels. I had to patch a few on the edge of the doorwall, so I could see what was underneath. The panels are 5/8" overall thickness and the top layer of wood is 1/8" thick...

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/P1020764.jpg

Bob Mariani 07-03-2012 04:42 AM

Some re-finishers use a large buffer and a low VOC finish that will fill and finish this very nicely. Sanding is not needed.

Joe Dirt 07-03-2012 12:32 PM

Would that be able to make the deep scratches look a bit less noticeable? The set of scratches in the first picture only bothers me quite a bit since that's what greets you when you walk into the living room. :)

Can I sand it with either a belt sander or random orbital (which is better since the scratches cross the planks) and reseal with Ceramathane?

What can I use to clean that dirt out of the grain? I have a carpet cleaner with a solid floor surface attachment... Possible? Just thinking out loud, sorry if these are dumb noob-ish questions... :D

oh'mike 07-03-2012 12:39 PM

Belt sander--that will be fast and good--

The dark "dirt' that you see is actually water staining of the red oak-
-it turns black when it comes in contact with water--

Only sanding will remove that--

You need a new floor--the wear layer on that is very thin.
Sanding aggressively will go right through.

Joe Dirt 07-03-2012 07:53 PM

That's really what I'm thinking... I know the floor is shot, I was hoping to get a couple of years or so out of it. Which, in retrospect- I can, it just won't look pretty. I have some clear that I got from the 'anyone want this since we're cleaning out the paint room' from work and I'll probably clean it up and cover it just to get some protection...

Thanks for the tip on the water/red oak... I would have never figured that out... :thumbsup:

RhodesHardwood 07-05-2012 05:40 PM

If I were you, I might at least try to refinish it. I would just use a lighter grit sand paper such as 80 grit. The finish looks really worn, so it would likely sand off easily. This is risky, but you really have nothing to lose. If you refinish it I would just use many coatings, because one time will definitely be it for refinishing. It would also be a good idea to buff and recoat the floor once a year or so. If properly maintained with buffing and coating, the floor can still have many years left on it. Let me know if I can help with any questions related to the process.

Joe Dirt 07-05-2012 09:06 PM

Should I use an 80 grit on a drum sander? I've read that I would be using multiple passes with multiple grits using a drum sander, and that's where I fear going through. What do I realistically need to sand with to get a manageable finish?

This is what I have to put on afterwards...

Awoodfloorguy 07-05-2012 09:13 PM

Most times when refinishing you do want to use a 3 step sanding process; rough, medium, and fine. But since you have a very thin wear layer, I think it would be best to just use 80 grit, even if it means using a lot of sand paper. Then you only need to use one grit, the 80. For the edges use 100 grit as 80 leaves swirls in the wood. Or if 100 doesn't work, then edge first with 80, drum with 80, then palm sand the edges with a 60 grit. Yes 60 grit. 60 on a palm sander is almost identical to 100 grit. After doing the edges and the rest of the floor with the edger and drum sander, I would buff the floor with a 100 grit sanding screen. Then it will be ready to be finished. I like Bona Traffic HD finish. Let me know if you have any other questions.

jimmy21 07-05-2012 09:15 PM

i mixed some stain in to some poly and added finish to a floor that looked like that. It looked pretty good but scratches were obvious because there wasn't any stain under, it was all in the poly. You might be able to do something like that

Awoodfloorguy 07-05-2012 09:18 PM

I didn't see your link to the finish before. I have never heard of it, but that don't mean it is bad. Just read their instructions for what to use as sealer. Most products like this you do not put directly on the floor without first sealing. Also, as I mentioned, use multiple coats. I would do 4 or 5. That finish is probably really hard, so use a norton sand dollar between coats as screens can leave swirls in super hard finishes. I like the yellow sand dollars. Just google them and you will find them.

Joe Dirt 07-06-2012 09:01 AM

Lots to look at... Thanks for all of the info! Now to decide on a plan of action... :thumbsup:


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