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Old 08-17-2009, 11:52 AM   #1
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"


In my basement, I'm building a bedroom, a rec. room, and a bathroom. For the rooms, I put 3/4 T+G osb over 3/4 sleepers, making 1 1/2". I need to build up the bathroom floor so that ceramic tile is at the same level as the carpet in the other rooms. I figure about 1 1/4" before thinset and tile. To use a double layer of Durarock would be expensive, so I'm thinking of pouring concrete or whatever to bring up the floor, and I dont know if using self leveling compound is too expensive or even strong enough for such a large area (8'x7'x 1 1/4"). Is this the right way to go about this, and if so, should I be using concrete, mortar, deck mud, sand mix? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is my first post here, I'm sure many more to follow.
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Tom

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Old 08-17-2009, 01:06 PM   #2
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"



Tom, There are some expert Concrete experts on this forum so I am sure you will get some good advice. My own self-leveling experience is limited to one project mixing two bags of self-leveling underlayment for Saltillo tile in one small corner of a concrete floor.

The job turned out OK but then because of all the irregularities in the tile, the underlayment could still not be acceptacle to a Pro. What I found was that the job was much more involved than I thought with all the prep work, primer, mixing, and application. I would not tackle this as a DIY project.


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Originally Posted by tomptat View Post
....I figure about 1 1/4" before thinset and tile....... or even strong enough for such a large area (8'x7'x 1 1/4")......
To use Self Leveling Topping for your ~60 sq ft area @ 1-1/4" You will need ~10 55lb bags.

Source: http://www.drytek.com/products/csi/csi_9400.pdf
.

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Old 08-17-2009, 01:54 PM   #3
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"


Use sandmix, mix it dry, pack it and screed it with a straightedge. There's your deckmud approach. This will be the most economical and as suitable as any other approach.

You cannot use cement board for this.

Self Leveller is generally in a fifty pound bag and that fifty pound bag will render you fifty square feet of coverage at 1/8" thick. So the above estimate of quanity required is pretty close. Self Leveller costs vary but most generally it costs about $30 per fifty pound bag. Don't forget the primer.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:47 PM   #4
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"


Thanx Palibob, I figured that would be an expensive option


Thanks also Bud, I will probably follow your advice. Three questions though: 1. You mean mix it dry-ish, right? and this will bond to thinset? Also, why couldn't I use durarock over sand mix, other than that would be xtra work? Thanks again for the help.

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Old 08-17-2009, 04:27 PM   #5
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"


Quote:
1. You mean mix it dry-ish, right? and this will bond to thinset?
You mix it so that you can grab a handfull of the mud and squeeze it into a clump in your hand. You wouldn't want it runny enough to pour. You could pour it but you have more control this other way. Pack it tight with a wood float or mag float and then use a straightedge that fits the room to drag-off the surface good and flatt. I use 1" rigid electrical conduit for guides and drag with a metal straightedge. And yes this will absolutely bond to thinset very well, that's what it's all about.

Quote:
Also, why couldn't I use durarock over sand mix, other than that would be xtra work?
And how's that going to work exactly? How will you bond the board to the sandmix? How would you maintain a plane surface? Sandmix has no adhesion properties of its own.
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:32 PM   #6
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"


Ok Bud,
Sandmix to thinset it is. Now, since Sandmix has no adhesion by itself, how does it bond to the concrete underneath? Cool tip, using the conduit, Thanks yet again for the help. Tom
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:27 PM   #7
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Building up concrete 1 1/4"


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since Sandmix has no adhesion by itself, how does it bond to the concrete underneath?
It doesn't. You don't want it to. This is what gives you the isolation from the existing slab that is preferable. This way the old slab cracking won't effect the new mud deck and new tile.

Put down some roofing felt. Mix your mud. Throw down four small piles of mud one in each corner basically. Set your screed-pipes one each into two piles. Tap the pipes to level them using a four foot level. Level along each pipe then across both pipes.

After the pipes are level in both directions, don't disturb the pipes and begin to throw down the mud mix. Stomp it into place with your float.

When you have enough mud down to drag a straightedge across the top of the pipes do so. If you pack the mud tightly you'll be able to remove the pipes and fill in the valleys they caused. You can get on the freshly packed mud immediately to fill the valleys and drag them off if you have to. This time you can drag the filled spots (valleys) with the straightedge using the previously prepared mud surface for a screeding surface.

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