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Old 03-20-2009, 12:31 PM   #76
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I hope you find an answer.
You should not have to deal with wood being noisy after install.....

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Old 03-20-2009, 06:04 PM   #77
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I put it down in the summer in hallway and kitchen. I didn't install it perpendicular to the floor joists as instructions suggest so I already started incorrectly. But, I've no noises and all seems well. I did acclimate the boxes for at least 2 weeks while I was doing other work; were yours acclimated long enough? My floor is over a basement if that has any impact. I wish you luck. Have you contacted the manufacturer for warranty resolution? I would.
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:20 PM   #78
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


About to have lock and fold installed in a day or two. (removal of carpet, plywood subfloor over crawl space)

What is the best underlayment to prevent cracking noises??

Any advice?

Will spend a lot of time making sure installer gets the subfloor as perfect as possible.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:00 AM   #79
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Put down ~800ft in my basement, used foam underlayment w/ vapor barrier. Took wife and I one long day to finish install.
The quality of the flooring is outstanding. Most pieces were blemish free, although many of the lengths were 12-18" long which made it take a lot longer to install. About 10% had some kind of defect be it knots or finish issues. I used all the pieces with knots because I think it makes it look more like a real wood floor as opposed to a "fake" floor. I paid $1.89/ft for the wood...cheaper than the carpet I was going to put down.
I overbought thinking that there would be a lot more waste and now Im sitting on 6 cases, probably donate to Habitat for Humanity.

Tips for someone who has never done floating floor.
Clean your floor really well with a vac, any crumbs will become high spots. Get a radial saw and set it up away from the area to be installed so you dont throw sawdust all over your floor. Use a section of 2x4 ~6" long to whack the boards togther periodically. I started using one of those tap blocks but found it easier to do with a piece of wood that fit in my hand. Good luck. I found this forum helpful for me so Im passing along my experiences.
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:40 PM   #80
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


My first post..I'm a newbie here.
I am in process of having Bruce Lock/Fold put in our house build on a concrete slab. Lowes guys have done one room so far and it sounds like
walking on rice crispies/ sand. Tell me this is not normal..please. What could they have done wrong?? Also the boards move some when you step on one. (is that normal?) I noticed a lot of sawdust and the concrete wasnt' too clean from taking up the carpet. Ideas?? Thanks.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:55 PM   #81
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Sounds like you are installing over a floor with stuff on it. Make sure your floors are CLEAN and level. Any high spots will haunt you. The couple of seams of underlayment I got lazy and lapped them on one another and you can tell exactly where they are. I can imagine what chunks of carpet padding must be like. Good luck
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:11 AM   #82
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


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Originally Posted by Madison View Post
Sounds like you are installing over a floor with stuff on it. Make sure your floors are CLEAN and level. Any high spots will haunt you. The couple of seams of underlayment I got lazy and lapped them on one another and you can tell exactly where they are. I can imagine what chunks of carpet padding must be like. Good luck
Tnx Madison, This was done by some so called pro's at this. I know this is a DIY , and I should have been doing it. We had them to take it all back up and fix it correctly. Problem was CLEAN as you said. They had not taken pains in cleaning sawdust, grit, and underlayment was not correctly installed as well.

I know a limited amount from experience and I kept telling them it needed
TLC.
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:24 PM   #83
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Hey everyone
My husband and I are thinking about doing our floors. We just bought our house and it looks like there was carpet but it was pulled before we bought the house so now the hard wood floors are exposed but they look old. We priced how much it would be to get them sanded and polished (and its expensive), then we also thought about our kids and two dogs and how they would mess the finish up. So our next thought was just replacing the floors. I have never done anything handy in my life and the only step that I know would be to measure the area of the room. I would ask my husband but right now he is a bit busy with work, his unit is getting ready to deploy so I just need something to keep me busy and my mind off of him leaving. thanks for the advice
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:13 PM   #84
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


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Hey everyone
replacing the floors. I have never done anything handy in my life and the only step that I know would be to measure the area of the room. I would ask my husband but right now he is a bit busy with work, his unit is getting ready to deploy so I just need something to keep me busy and my mind off of him leaving. thanks for the advice
WELL Princess, I would get a quote on putting down either laminate or the engineered type over that floor if its level and compare with refinishing quote that you have gotten.
THEN you would know which route to take. The restore route would be the most messy I would think, but the DIY would give you something to do (can you say challange). It would be a large project for a first timer, but doing a small room at a time would be a learning experience. Just depends on what you feel like taking on. Good luck.
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:17 AM   #85
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I have an offer on a house and hate the floors. If all goes well, I will be doing something about that. This is a very helpful discussion, thanks, everyone. A few questions I had are:

Is this product made of all wood, or is there MDF as part of it?

Are the T-moldings wood, plastic, MDF? Can you get wood moldings? (I put laminate in my kitchen and hate the T-moldings I had to use. They just look fake and cheap to me.)

Could this be installed over lineoleum/vinyl sheet flooring or does that have to be taken up first, or perhaps underlayment put over it?

How did you level the floors if they aren't level?
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:43 AM   #86
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I am planning to go with Bruce lock and fold also. I need to know where can I find the cheapest material. Lowes turns out to be around 4.25/sq ft for material.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:17 AM   #87
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


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Originally Posted by achow26 View Post
I am planning to go with Bruce lock and fold also. I need to know where can I find the cheapest material. Lowes turns out to be around 4.25/sq ft for material.

I bought "Value Grade" from Hurst Hardwoods online. $1.89/ft. There are imperfections but like I said before I like the knots, makes the place look homey. If you want top grade you can find it cheaper than $4.25 online but you cant take back the extra quite so easy. I rec buy the bulk from an online distributor but under order than buy the rest from Lowes. Make sure you check all the boxes for consistency, would hate to have a color change when you switched over. Good luck.
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:15 PM   #88
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I am installing the floor now. I need to check with you guys if you removed or cut the base moulding before installing the floor so that the base moulding covers some part of the end of floor to give it more strength? Please let me know asap so that I can start on this project.

Madison thanks for your response. I will buy the wood from Lowes then. I am installing only 500 Sq Ft.

Thanks All
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:19 PM   #89
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I left the baseboard and took off only the 1/4 round shoe molding. I replaced the shoe and it provided enough cover for any of the required gap between wall and edge of flooring.
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:50 AM   #90
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I'm installing a floating engineered wood floor over a slab and using cabin grade (hickory veneer and floor muffler underlayment). I really want to use the knotty pieces. But most of the knots are empty, like the center fell out, and the second layer of the board is visible. Is it possible to fill these holes? Any product, home-made mixture, suggestions? I saw some tinted wood putty products, but it seems like filling with that would require some type of top coat to seal and keep the putty from falling apart when it's walked on. Also, I've noticed that the boards with surface flaws seem to not be finished. The locking part doesn't have that small line of something waxy or gummy that the other boards have. Those boards are kinda squeaky when walked on (did a section of a small room with them). It's not loud or obnoxious. But I'd like to fix it. Anyone have suggestions for how I might "finish" these boards? I don't mind putting some elbow grease into it but I don't have a clue about what that bead of stuff is and what I could use that would serve whatever its function is? Ideas, anyone? In theory, my husband is helping me but he's traveling so much that it's pretty much all me. All the solutions that come to my mind are based on products I'm familiar with--things like clear nail polish, ivory soap, canning wax, sally hansen roll-on wax hair remover, etc. Anything y'all have to offer couldn't possibly be any worse or crazier than what I'm thinking or trying! Also, my flooring doesn't have a warranty so me messing with it doesn't negate any manufacturer promise or anything like that. (Posted these questions in another thread but didn't get any responses so trying here.)

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