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Old 03-03-2008, 02:34 PM   #46
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I haven't installed my floor yet, but all of the information that I have read says not to nail the floor down. It said that you should leave space between the wall and the hardwood the thickness of the hardwood planks that you have. They used pieces of the wood as a shim between the wall and the 1st row of hardwood. They also used it to shim the sides.

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Old 03-04-2008, 07:02 AM   #47
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


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I'm installing my lock and fold hardwood floor this saturday and I have a question. Understanding that it is a floating floor, would there be an advantage (or disadvantage to nailing down just the first row?
I think this would be a disadvantage. This is a floating floor that is supposed to freely expand and contract, providing the recommended expansion spaces have been met. If you nail down any of the rows, especially the beginning or end rows, the floor isn't going to be able to move as it should. Therefore you may have problems (buckling etc) later on when the floor needs to expand but can't.

You should use spacers during installation between the first row and the wall. This will prevent any movement when you install the rest of the rows.
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Old 03-04-2008, 09:03 AM   #48
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Once again I am asking for help. Can anyone explain to me how I would scribe the last row of hardwood so I can cut it properly?
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:13 PM   #49
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I finished installing my Bruce Lock and Fold hardwood floor and it was all installed in one day. I finished the threshold and quarter round the second day. The project was so simple and it looks great. I couldn't ask for an easier project.
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:55 PM   #50
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


This stuff looks good.... and I'm thinking about using it.

However, since it isn't glued or nailed down I'm concerned it will move/sink/make noise when walked on. I've walked on some laminate floors that do that and it is super annyoing and sounds cheap.

Does this feel/sound just like a real nailed/glued hardwood floor or does it make noise and move when you walk on it?

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:15 PM   #51
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


The Bruce is not laminate, it's engineered hardwood. You put down a 3 ply underlayment that keeps the floor very quiet. The floor doesn't shift because you have each board locked into each other and the quarter round holds it in place. I didn't remove my baseboards I just left a 3/16 gap around the room. Once the floor was completed I just added quarter round to the baseboards in the same color. The floor looks and feels like real hardwood that has been nailed down. I have real hardwood in the rest of my house that was nailed onto a wood subfloor,sanded and stained and sealed in the house. It took forever and the house was a mess. We don't have a basement and the foundation is cement. The Bruce was completed in 2 days and is really good looking and doesn't make clicking sounds. I did most of the work and my husband started to help at the end when he saw how easy it was to install and how good it looked. It was my project and he was convinced that it wouldn't work out and wouldn't look good. He now wants to do the one bedroom that still has carpeting.
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:41 AM   #52
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Has anyone tried using a boarder. What I want to do is a border of 3 or 4 planks in a darker color and then a 22.5 diagonal through the field in a lighter color. I have about 1100 sqft to do over concrete.
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:03 PM   #53
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I am thinking about using this product over my existing tile. What type of underlay matting should I use?

also...

The room that I want to do is actually broken up into tile and carpet. I would like the wood floor to be level and flowing over this junction. My thought was to tear up the carpet and glue plywood down so that it is level with the tile. then lay the lock and fold down over the entire room as if it were one homogeneous floor.

does anyone think this will end up like crap? sould I take the time to rip up the tile and level out the concrete underneath?

thanks
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:33 AM   #54
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Mike and talented DIY Lock and Fold installers,

Would love your advice. We're needing about 1700 sq ft installed in our house. My husband thought about attempting it, but takes care of our girls so decided to bid it to professionals. Since Bruce Lock & Fold seems easier to install than traditional glue-down hardwood, we're wondering how to go about getting accurate bids that reflect the time it takes to install this "easier to work" with product.

When you contract to install lock & fold, what is the rate - or range of rates - you charge per square foot?

Also, of all hardwood options, would you suggest Lock & Fold is one of the best? Anything else out there that is as easy and beautiful? Thanks so much for your time.

May the loads of unbent, perfect boards come your way ; )
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:38 AM   #55
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Nancy - I loved following your thread and cheered when you finally finished. Did anyone ever help you figure out how to scribe that last row of hardwood?

Congrats and good luck if you decide to do your bedroom. We have to cover a new house with this product and I wish I didn't have the full time job and intense move-in schedule - as I'd love to try to do a room by myself as well.

Must be a great feeling of accomplishment. I've always thought laying hardwood seemed as difficult as tiling a roof.
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:55 AM   #56
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


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Originally Posted by Sarabou View Post
Mike and talented DIY Lock and Fold installers,

Would love your advice. We're needing about 1700 sq ft installed in our house. My husband thought about attempting it, but takes care of our girls so decided to bid it to professionals. Since Bruce Lock & Fold seems easier to install than traditional glue-down hardwood, we're wondering how to go about getting accurate bids that reflect the time it takes to install this "easier to work" with product.

When you contract to install lock & fold, what is the rate - or range of rates - you charge per square foot?

Also, of all hardwood options, would you suggest Lock & Fold is one of the best? Anything else out there that is as easy and beautiful? Thanks so much for your time.

May the loads of unbent, perfect boards come your way ; )
Sarabou,

This is primarily a DIY site. You would benefit most with questions on how to do things on your own. When you start asking about rates for professionals, you are opening a can of worms. You may find a member that would be willing to discuss prices in private but as for posting rates, that's not what this site is about.

Also, easy, beautiful and cheap don't always combine in the same sentence! There are quality laminate snap and lock products out there but as with any material, you pay a premium price for a premium product. My best advice for you is to figure out your budget and then see what you can get within your range. If you're not happy with the materials available in your budget, save for a bit longer until you can get what you want. When people start compromising for price, that's when unhappy results can occur. Most flooring professionals will offer free estimates. Why not find 2-3 local installers and have THEM give you an idea of what it costs to get the floor you're looking at.
Or m-a-y-b-e.....let your husband try it himself????!!!!!?????
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:39 PM   #57
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Hi! I'm new to this but have a question. I finished our dining room with the Bruce lock and fold and it turned out great. I then went onto the family room and when we got done, I noticed a sagging part. The subfloor didn't seem too uneven and we didn't notice this sagging until we were finished. How do I fix this? It is in a major thoroughfare in our home. Do I need to peel the whole thing up and start over? I am just sick over this. My husband was very impressed with the dining room and now I feel like I let him down with the family room. Someone help!!!
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Old 11-28-2008, 09:24 PM   #58
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Hello,
I plan to install the floor in my living area and we have a foyer with tile all ready in place that has a curve to it. Does anyone have any good advice for how to go around the tile? Should we try to cut the wood on a curve with a power saw or would it be easier to rip up the pieces of tile that are on the curve?
Thanks!
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Old 11-28-2008, 10:20 PM   #59
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Holly,
How were you going to cover the raw edge of the Bruce where it meets the tile (if I understand what you are doing)?
Usually, you need a molding to butt against a wall or to transition from your new floor to an existing one. Since these are straight, I don't see how else to do it but to remove/cut your existing tiles in a straight line.
B
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:31 PM   #60
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I had this installed and it squeeks and cracks and pops - like rice krispys! Contractor coming back to glue down. I am going to look at floor condition underneath to make sure it is very flat. Jury still out it could be a bad product of uneven floor. Good luck!

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