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Old 02-19-2008, 03:48 PM   #31
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


try giving it a little tap with a small tapping block down the length of it. when its totally locked it lays pretty flat

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Old 02-19-2008, 03:53 PM   #32
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


You can fasten the moldings to the floor ,providing they arent holding the floor down in any way. Just be sure you still have your expansion gap under the lip.

I fasten them down with PL urethane adhesive and a few finish nails.
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:37 AM   #33
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


rossman and slk3202002...curious to know if and how you checked your floor for flatness. i'm working on my second room (see above post about how first room came out not so great) and really taking time as to avoid any problems.
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:33 PM   #34
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Well, I am pretty much done. Updated photos are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rdannenb...orInstallation.

The only thing left is to put down the 1/4 round trim pieces, but I am having a heck of a time figuring out how to accurately and safely cut the pieces. None of my equipment seems to do the trick. Anyone have any suggestions?

As for making sure the room was flat, I was lucky, it was flat. I fairly confident it would be because it is a first floor room on the concrete slab. Builders are generally pretty good about making sure the slab is flat and level, not to mention that hardwoods were a builder's option when this place was built in 2001, so I knew the floor must have been prepped for it in case we ordered them from the start.

I'll post more photos once I get the 1/4 round trim in place. That might be a few weeks though.
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:59 PM   #35
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Go to a box home store and get a little platic miter box and a hand saw. Best way to cut 1/4 round unless your use to using a circular miter saw
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:26 AM   #36
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossman View Post
Well, I am pretty much done. Updated photos are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rdannenb...orInstallation.

The only thing left is to put down the 1/4 round trim pieces, but I am having a heck of a time figuring out how to accurately and safely cut the pieces. None of my equipment seems to do the trick. Anyone have any suggestions?

As for making sure the room was flat, I was lucky, it was flat. I fairly confident it would be because it is a first floor room on the concrete slab. Builders are generally pretty good about making sure the slab is flat and level, not to mention that hardwoods were a builder's option when this place was built in 2001, so I knew the floor must have been prepped for it in case we ordered them from the start.

I'll post more photos once I get the 1/4 round trim in place. That might be a few weeks though.
Looks good. I just completed another room and it came out much much better than the first room i did. I spent a lot of time measuring the flatness and it payed off to correct any problems. I used 30# roof felt. I'm wondering if it necessarily has to be roof felt and maybe not something else? Just a thought.
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Old 02-27-2008, 01:50 PM   #37
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I'm getting ready to install the lock and fold hardwood on my first floor. I live in a townhouse and the joists run front to back. that is the way i wanted to run the floor, but i understand hardwood should be installed perpendicular to the joists. Anyone have any thoughts on running the hard wood the same way as the joists?
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:22 PM   #38
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


You are installing a floating floor. Put it any direction you like
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:27 PM   #39
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


In theory I disagree, although I have no data to back me up. As long as the plywood does not sag between joists, then you should be ok. But if the wood underlayer ever starts to sag, then it will be much more noticeable on a floor installed parallel to the joists than on a floor installed perpendicular to the joists.

Incidentally, I also have a townhouse, and our builder installed all the hardwoods perpendicular to the joists. The joists run from the front to the back of the house, so the hardwoods run from one side wall to the other. Looks great. The hardwoods I just installed I installed the same way, as can be seen in the photos I posted (link is provided in previous post).
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:38 PM   #40
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Ok, I bought a $20 miter box/saw kit (but I bought it from Home Depot) that I bolted temporarily to my workbench in the garage. Worked like a charm, even for the 45-degree wall which required 67.5-degree cuts on the trim. Once all the trim was cut, all that was left was attach the trim to the baseboards. Luckily, my stepfather has a nailgun (for finishing brads) that I was able to use on the trim, and the nailing took all of about 10 minutes for the one room. Then I had to reattach the T-mold over the doorjam, because that GE silicon stuff was crap. It moved a lot, and didn't keep the floor from springing up. So I reattached the T-mold in the doorjam using Gorilla Glue. LOVE THAT STUFF. Solid as a rock now. Its never coming up though...

The room looks great. No new photos, 'cuz they won't add too much to the previously posted ones. All in all, I am a fan of the Bruce Lock & Fold. For those deciding whether or not to use it, go for it. Don't expect it to look like $10K hardwood flooring, but it certainly looks great.

As I mentioned before, the indispensable items I would have been pulling my hair out without, were the rubber mallet to tap the wood in place, vinyl gloves to keep from getting splinters (you are handling wood, after all), and the gorilla glue to attach the wood T-molding to the concrete floor.

Good luck everyone.
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:28 PM   #41
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I viewed all of your pictures on Picasso. Please explain to me how you scribe the last row of lock n fold flooring. I couldn't understand the picture. I am installing this floor myself without the help of my husband. I need to do it perfectly, so no comments will be made. I have a miter saw and nail gun so that part will be very easy for the quarter round. Should I go out and purchase a deadhead mallet and tapping block at Lowes? I appreciate your help in this matter.
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:33 PM   #42
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Can anyone explain to me how to scribe the last row of Bruce Lock n Fold hardwood flooring? I have no idea how to do this. What exactly is a tapping block?
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:54 PM   #43
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


A tapping block can be a simple 8" peice of 2X4. You put it against the edge of the flooring and tap the other side of the block. It protects the edge of the finished flooring from you hammering directly on it. They also sell plastic versions which fit the toungue and seem to offer even better protection.
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:19 PM   #44
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Zel, Did you have trouble installing the last row of engineered hardwood? I'm installing the 3/8 Sangria Cherry and it is 5 inches wide. I read the directions on Bruce's site and it said to measure the width of the room and allow for 1/2 inch expansion for each side. Here's my problem. The width of the room is 10 feet 10 1/4 inches. Should I just get rid of the tongue on the 1st and last rows to have enough room for expansion?
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Old 03-03-2008, 12:18 PM   #45
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I'm installing my lock and fold hardwood floor this saturday and I have a question. Understanding that it is a floating floor, would there be an advantage (or disadvantage to nailing down just the first row?

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