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Old 04-10-2007, 04:39 PM   #16
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


That is looking real nice!

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Old 04-11-2007, 11:35 AM   #17
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


Thanks. I can't take all of the credit. James Taylor, Nina Simone and Willie Nelson have been indispensible.

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Old 04-28-2007, 08:52 PM   #18
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


smgray, that looks sharp! Is that color gunstock? Also, is underlayment recommended, and if so, what are you using?

My project will be ~1,000 sf, so I hate to to even think of 'professional' installation cost of any other hardwoods. Ease of install is a huge perk (and I'll definitely be in the market come 20% off).

Thanks again for the feedback.
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:14 AM   #19
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


That floor is looking great!

We decided to go with standard 3/4" hardwood for this bedroom. We went with Brazillian Cherry from Lumber Liquidators. I am still considering the lock and fold for the basement in the near future, so any experience is great to know. Good Luck!
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Old 05-06-2007, 02:14 AM   #20
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It took me a month to finish my 650 sq ft condo working after work and the odd Saturday (and moving really slowly to boot). The floor looks great but the subfloor needs to be really flat. I used a high mil plastic sheeting and red rosin paper over my concrete subfloor. It worked well in almost every area and was less expensive than most other methods. I took my time and I would say that my waste was less than 5% including some pieces that were warped or had seperated plys out of the box which I used some parts of in the closets. I went with the Gunstock and I ended up with about 3/4 of a box left over.

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Old 10-19-2007, 05:06 PM   #21
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I would be interested in any updates from the April, 2007 discussion posted here.
I am currently considering Bruce lock'n'fold, available on Ebay from multiple vendors for <$2.00/sq.ft. This is awfully cheap; I'm worried whether it is any good. Does anyone have any experience with it?
I have previously put down Barlinek floating flooring, and its OK; seems to be durable, but doesn't really look like wood, although I believe it is supposed to be.
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Old 10-23-2007, 09:21 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bob Surkein View Post
I would be interested in any updates from the April, 2007 discussion posted here.
I am currently considering Bruce lock'n'fold, available on Ebay from multiple vendors for <$2.00/sq.ft. This is awfully cheap; I'm worried whether it is any good. Does anyone have any experience with it?
I have previously put down Barlinek floating flooring, and its OK; seems to be durable, but doesn't really look like wood, although I believe it is supposed to be.
Hi Bob, I looked at the deals on eBay when I first started considering this. You should know that those sales are probably for 2nd quality (cabin grade) product. I even emailed one seller in particular asking if the Lock & Fold was the same type and quality as found at Lowe's. He said it was but I emailed a customer of his that I found had purchased it and they said it was cabin grade. Cabin grade come with no warranty, may be filled with small pieces or may have finish/color issues. I decided I am better off just just waiting for Lowes to run their 20% off sale and buy it then.
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:04 PM   #23
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Bruce Lock & Fold engineered hardwood?


I am currently one of the vendors on ebay that sell the bruce Lock & Fold for under $2.00 per sq.ft. .
Many consumers have a bad outlook on lower prices....that is why they make feedback for ebay.
Bruce does carry a Value grade line and simply it is exactly what it is....a VALUE to the customer. That is true, Value grade does mean Cabin grade but w/ a warranty directly from Bruce stating that they will guarentee that it will go together and that the finish will not wear out.
To everyone's surprise, over 80% of the population buys cabin grade hardwood.....simply b/c it is much cheaper and it has beautiful characteristics instead of the same on DULL lock that the 1st quality gives.
There are some bad pieces and the distributor recommends you buying 8% overage, for culling those bad pieces that you might not want to use, but with the 8% overage that you are buying, you can build a 1st quality looking floor (if that is what you want) and depending on the job size, savings of over $1000.00 dollars.
And by the way, no one will EVER know that you went cheap on your hardwood.
Another thing that Bruce's distributors will tell you straight up that the big box store by cabin grade hardwood, and b/c they are so big...Bruce will put WHATEVER warranty that they want on the box.
I hope this helps you in making a wise financial decision in the future and stop listening to individuals who want to put Cabin grade flooring down.
I am not trying to sell you anything but trust me when I say that everyone in Dalton, GA (Carpet Capitol of the world) knows their flooring products!!
Take care
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:54 AM   #24
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Im in the middle of an 8000 sq ft install of this product. Very installer friendly.
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:56 AM   #25
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theres a trick for that..After locking it together give it a little tap with a tapping block and it will lay flat.

Ive put thousands of feet of this stuff down with no issues
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Old 02-14-2008, 02:10 PM   #26
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I just completed the first room with this the other day. I'm a little disappointed, I have to admit. I'm noticing a LOT of boards are warped. I ordered the recommended 10% overage but I'm wondering if that was enough. I've combatted this problem by trying to bend the boards back gently. It works most of the time unless I put too much pressure and I hear a crack. Then it basically goes to the junk pile. It's kind of a pain to do this but I really don't want to waste these if I don't have to. So, I finished the first room and noticed that the floor doesn't lay completely flat. The subfloor is plywood and was pretty flat so not sure what went wrong. It's not horrible but you definately notice as you step on it that the boards sink maybe 1/8" a bit. You can also hear a little tapping sound as you step in certain parts.

Being the first flooring project I've ever done, I pretty much decided that this particular room was going to be the practice room. I didn't weed out the bad boards when I first started and that may be part of the problem. So, now I know. However, I still have a feeling that there may still be an issue even if I weed out the bad pieces.

I should also note that I'm using the "floor muffler" underlayment. The instructions with the underlayment said to lay it parallel to the joists but the flooring instructions said to lay the underlayment in the same direction that the flooring would go. The flooring would go perpendicular. So, these are conflicting instructions. I decided to go with the underlayment instructions. Could that cause the boards not to lay flat?

One last thing. I woke up this morning and thought that maybe I could use a staple gun in the groove to solve the problem. I know this would defeat the whole lock and fold thing but I really don't want to do the whole house and have it feel like fake flooring. I figure that solid hardwood floors are nailed and glued down so how bad could it be?

Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading!

Any thoughts are appreciated!!!
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:07 AM   #27
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I am installing this stuff for the first time, and have been documenting the process. I am not a professional flooring guy, I am just moderately handy around the house, i.e., I can fix toilets, install light fixtures/ceiling fans, etc. By day I am an attorney, so if I can do this, anyone can. You can view photos of my progress on my web album. As of the date of this post, I have prepped the room so I am ready to begin the installation. I will keep the web album up to date, so check there for updates.
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Old 02-19-2008, 11:54 AM   #28
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I purchased my floor at Loews. The floor was fairly easy to install and cut around floor vents, etc. I went with the 5in width and would recommend it.

I would also recommend using boxes to hold down the floor flat as you put the next row on - very helpful.

I installed about 600 square feet. The only part left are the door jams in the hallway - not looking forward to this.
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:01 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Rossman View Post
I am installing this stuff for the first time, and have been documenting the process. I am not a professional flooring guy, I am just moderately handy around the house, i.e., I can fix toilets, install light fixtures/ceiling fans, etc. By day I am an attorney, so if I can do this, anyone can. You can view photos of my progress on my web album. As of the date of this post, I have prepped the room so I am ready to begin the installation. I will keep the web album up to date, so check there for updates.

I started mine first of the year and almost done. I went with the 5in width
amarratto color. It appears you do not have any door jams - lucky you. I have 5 and is the last part of the project. Funny, the last 50 sq feet will take the longest it appears.

I used T-molding in my project already - around the fireplace and dinning room to kitchen - looks good. However, the pieces are cut and being held in place by gravity only - how are you planning on Permanently attaching these pieces?
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:17 PM   #30
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I hadn't thought about that yet, but I'll let you know what I come up with. Let me know if have any good ideas. I am thinking that some strong double sided tape might work for adhering it to the tile side. That might be enough. I'll keep you posted.

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