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Old 04-19-2013, 03:58 PM   #1
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Bouncy Floor


New guy here who just stumbled in from Woodworking Talk. Looks like this forum could be a good place to hangout as well. Recently I had to replace my original fiberglass shower stall as it cracked across the bottom. Upon inspection during removal, it appeared the support fiberglass seperated from the "body" and weakened it.

When we replaced this, we decided to install a fiberglass floor pan and then tile the walls w/ 6x6s as I have some experience with tile. I thought it turned out pretty good but I noticed where the sealant meets the tile & pan, there is movement of the floor along the middle of the outside wall. The movement is enough that even after 2-3 days of letting the bathroom caulk dry, it still slices apart from the movement. The subfloor is 3/4" advontec and is directly attached to the joists underneath. The pan is about 32x48, and the joists run 16" on center across the 32" direction. There is a 4' or so crawl space under this area which I spent much time in already doing the plumbing rework.

So, what is the best way to add support underneath to eliminate the movement of the floor/pan?

Thank you in advance for your help with htis. It is greatly appreciated!!!!

Mark

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Old 04-19-2013, 05:07 PM   #2
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What's the span and width of the floor joist?

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Old 04-19-2013, 08:32 PM   #3
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Mark,

I don't think the joists' span is an issue. I think since you cut out the old subfloor you forgot to install blocking under the seam where old and new meet. Just get under there and install the necessary supports. Use 2x4 or larger, well fastened.

Jaz
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #4
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Did you secure the pan flange to the studs?
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan
Mark,

I don't think the joists' span is an issue. I think since you cut out the old subfloor you forgot to install blocking under the seam where old and new meet. Just get under there and install the necessary supports. Use 2x4 or larger, well fastened.

Jaz
Span of joist is 24". As for the floor, I never removed flooring. It originally had the advontec subfloor. When I put the shower pan, I added a 2nd layer of the same subfloor to bring the floor up to the same level as the tiled floor which is over wonderboard. I was actually under the house yesterday and I didn't notice any gaps between the subfloor and the joists.

Any more thoughts?

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Originally Posted by skipoff
Did you secure the pan flange to the studs?
The pan flange was not secured for a reason. It was steel reinforced and it came with clips that would have pushed the concrete wall board out. Thats why I didn't use them.

Last edited by Burb; 04-23-2013 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:20 PM   #6
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Mark,

You said the span of the joists is 24". But, that makes no sense to me. How is that possible?

Then you said;
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burb
The pan flange was not secured for a reason. It was steel reinforced and it came with clips that would have pushed the concrete wall board out. Thats why I didn't use them.
You could have chiseled the stud for the clips no? What brand/model is it?

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Old 04-23-2013, 08:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burb View Post
Span of joist is 24". As for the floor, I never removed flooring. It originally had the advontec subfloor. When I put the shower pan, I added a 2nd layer of the same subfloor to bring the floor up to the same level as the tiled floor which is over wonderboard. I was actually under the house yesterday and I didn't notice any gaps between the subfloor and the joists.

Any more thoughts?



The pan flange was not secured for a reason. It was steel reinforced and it came with clips that would have pushed the concrete wall board out. Thats why I didn't use them.
I dont normally lap over the flange with the backer board. Come down to the flange and fill the rest with thinset. Unless the flange was more then an 1" or so that is how the manufacture recomends it I am pretty sure.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:53 PM   #8
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Here's the photos of the underside. They show joists at 16" OC, the double thickness subfloor, and the fact that I couldn't find any gaps.
Attached Thumbnails
Bouncy Floor-image-3095581347.jpg   Bouncy Floor-image-4235278232.jpg   Bouncy Floor-image-3430421805.jpg   Bouncy Floor-image-2087736794.jpg   Bouncy Floor-image-3328766276.jpg  

Bouncy Floor-image-3597392887.jpg   Bouncy Floor-image-1468888992.jpg   Bouncy Floor-image-2674058094.jpg  
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:20 PM   #9
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Did you put some masons mortar under the pan?

I still don't understand why the base is not secured to the studs-----could you post a link to the shower base so I can read the instructions?
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike
Did you put some masons mortar under the pan?

I still don't understand why the base is not secured to the studs-----could you post a link to the shower base so I can read the instructions?
This was installed last year. There isn't a brand on it but I purchased it at Lowes and it looks identical to this one: Sterling 48-in L x 34-in W Ensemble White Gelcoat/Fiberglass Shower http://www.lowes.com/pd_103913-7-721...7C1&facetInfo=

As far as using mortar, I was not instructed to do that. This unit was designed to set directly on the subfloor.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:57 PM   #11
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Most pans benefit from some masons mortar under the pan----done correctly it prevents any flexing of the pan---sorry you had to learn the hard way----
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike
Most pans benefit from some masons mortar under the pan----done correctly it prevents any flexing of the pan---sorry you had to learn the hard way----
Well if I get get a reasonably simple fix, then I guess I will live with it the way it is. There enough silicone that its not leaking water anywhere.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:06 PM   #13
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All Lowes products have an instruction booklet.. That said, you over thought the process and left out the step necessary to prevent the movement of the shower pan.

Your choice now is to remove enough tile so that you can fasten it or keep close track and watch for leaks.

I am sorry to tell you, but you messed up.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framer52
All Lowes products have an instruction booklet.. That said, you over thought the process and left out the step necessary to prevent the movement of the shower pan.

Your choice now is to remove enough tile so that you can fasten it or keep close track and watch for leaks.

I am sorry to tell you, but you messed up.
It seems that way & I'm okay with it as a learning process. My mistake was taking someones word instead of reading the info for myself. Oh well. At this point its not leaking, and I will do my best to ensure it doesn't. As for tearing it out, that isn't happening.

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