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Best way to smooth concrete before putting down floor?

5K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  Tommy2 
#1 ·
My garage floor is pretty rough. Lots of bumps (from bad patching) and tons of pitting. It is pretty level though, atleast.

I'd like to get the floor perfectly smooth and fresh, so then I can either paint, epoxy, or put down VCT tiles etc..

Whats the best remedy?

I'm thinking of pulling up all the looses concrete, then skim coating the entire surface with new concrete.
What's the best product for that?

Should I then seal the floor? What type of sealer?

This is basically goign to just be a workshop. Not a place that will regularly park cars.. Especially not wet ones.
 
#3 ·
1st be sure the repairs've been done correctly by ' sounding ' the floor w/16oz hammer,,, hollow drum sounds'll indicate the suspect areas,,, if thin-skin repairs're needed, to redo, head for a const supply house & get some polymer-modified repair mortar,,, if full-depth, you can use an apron store conc mix,,, once you get those straightened out, a scarifier'll quickly plane the surface leaving a corduroy texture,,, more polymer-mod'd mtl over the top of that - 1st w/broome, then 2nd coat w/squeegee,,, stone off your high spots & VOILA !!!

there's no paint that, imn-s-hfo, will last,,, further, we use urethane coats to protect epoxies.

this is how we normally repair floors like yours but you should run some numbers to see if total replacement's not a better option for your very fine garage.
 
#4 ·
1st be sure the repairs've been done correctly by ' sounding ' the floor w/16oz hammer,,, hollow drum sounds'll indicate the suspect areas,,, if thin-skin repairs're needed, to redo, head for a const supply house & get some polymer-modified repair mortar,,, if full-depth, you can use an apron store conc mix,,, once you get those straightened out, a scarifier'll quickly plane the surface leaving a corduroy texture,,, more polymer-mod'd mtl over the top of that - 1st w/broome, then 2nd coat w/squeegee,,, stone off your high spots & VOILA !!!

there's no paint that, imn-s-hfo, will last,,, further, we use urethane coats to protect epoxies.

this is how we normally repair floors like yours but you should run some numbers to see if total replacement's not a better option for your very fine garage.
Thank you very much for the reply!

Would this product work in my situation?


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100318512&N=10000003+90093+502846

Sounds like what you were talking about.

Pretty expensive..but, probaly worth doing in the long run. Only doing one-bay of the garage..so shoudlnt take too many bags..

Do you think 2 coats is really necessary? The floor isnt "that" bad really. Just not good enough to put down adhesive tiles, etc.. in its current state.

I would clean the floor thorougly, knock down all high spots, then start dumping the resurfacer. Do I really need a scarifier? Im sure thats how the pro's do it..but this doesnt need to be 110% perfect. Just good enough for a workshop.

Should I put down a sealer after that dries?


Thanks again for the help!!!
 
#6 ·
Thanks again. I'll probaly give it a whirl.

Heres the product description:
Quikrete 40lb Commercial resurfacer.


"""""This product contains a special blend of portland cement, sand, polymer modifiers and other additives. It is designed to provide a shrinkage compensated repair material for making thin repairs to sound concrete in need of surface renewal. Product can be squeegee, trowel, or brush applied.
  • Repairing cracks in blacktop and asphalt surfaces including driveways, roofs and chimney flashings.
  • Helps prevent water and ice damage to blacktop surfaces.
  • Dries to a textured black finish.
  • Non-flammable.
  • MFG Model # : 113140
  • MFG Part # : 113140
"""""""""""""

Its $20 for a 40lb bag. About 90 sq/ft per bag. Probaly take 4-5 bags for my one bay.
 
#7 ·
Thanks again. I'll probaly give it a whirl.

Heres the product description:
Quikrete 40lb Commercial resurfacer.


"""""This product contains a special blend of portland cement, sand, polymer modifiers and other additives. It is designed to provide a shrinkage compensated repair material for making thin repairs to sound concrete in need of surface renewal. Product can be squeegee, trowel, or brush applied.
  • Repairing cracks in blacktop and asphalt surfaces including driveways, roofs and chimney flashings.
  • Helps prevent water and ice damage to blacktop surfaces.
  • Dries to a textured black finish.
  • Non-flammable.
  • MFG Model # : 113140
  • MFG Part # : 113140
"""""""""""""

Its $20 for a 40lb bag. About 90 sq/ft per bag. Probaly take 4-5 bags for my one bay.

This is the MOST important part. IF you are planning on doing the epoxy floor right. Not a bad idea would be to 'acid etch' the areas where you are going to be patching. Using regular drain cleaner (muratic acid) ** ADD ACID TO WATER** mix about 10pts water to 1 acid.

Scrub the areas with a stiff bristle brush. rinse until it runs clear.

THEN install the product you described. NOT REQ'D but may help avoid problems later.
 
#9 ·
careful w/acid-etch - it does have its place but, not necessarily, at your job,,, notice that wasn't shown on the shilling u-tube video ??? just a 7" diamond grinder w/dust shroud,,, we regularly & daily install cementitious, epoxy, polyaspartic, acid-stain, & urethane floors,,, in your application, acid & rinse can add several days to the work but its your floor - still don't know anyone other'n h/o's-diy'ers who uses q-c resurfacer w/good success from an apron store.

am curious - why take chances w/time & $$$,,, if there's not time to do it correctly the 1st time, when're you ever going to find time to do it over right ? ? ? no argument w/the guy who post'd the acid-etch - just our experience after 36yrs.
 
#10 ·
I probaly wont bother with the acid-etch.

Regarding the resurfacer..I'll mix some up and put it over the deep areas to start. Let it dry a few days, see how well it holds. If all looks good, I'll go ahead and do the rest of the floor with a squeege.

Im sure your method is the way to do it..but its just not practical for my circumstance. Im not about to hire a crew and dump thousands into a garage floor. Just dont have the money.
After all, its just a garage. It doesnt have to be exactly perfect.

Thanks!
 
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