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John_W 04-21-2012 08:58 PM

Bathroom tile advice needed.
 
5 Attachment(s)
We want a different color bathroom tile.

We will hire someone to do the work.

It would be great to have your ideas and advice.

In particular, does the old tile have to be removed - or - can a new layer be added on top of the existing tile?

The new toilet you see sits 3/4" above the current tile because the flange was that much "too tall" for it.

Missouri Bound 04-21-2012 09:39 PM

If the existing layer is solid you can probably go on top of it. Can you live with increased height, doorways, etc? Are planning on replacing the tub?

John_W 04-21-2012 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Missouri Bound (Post 904179)
If the existing layer is solid you can probably go on top of it. Can you live with increased height, doorways, etc? Are planning on replacing the tub?

The exiting floor/tile is very solid. The tub stays.

A new layer would cover the curved, bottom part of the wall tiles. Don't know if that's a problem.

The door clears the floor/threshold by 7/8" - and we could cut extra off the bottom - if needed.

Maybe we would need to replace the white threshold to match the new floor height?

Except at the threshold, I don't think we would notice the extra height.

How much extra height will a new layer of tile add?

Missouri Bound 04-21-2012 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_W (Post 904244)
How much extra height will a new layer of tile add?

You will need to remove the curved tiles at the wall. And the height is completely up to you by tile choice and any preperation you do for the tile: cement board, mortar, and any sub floor change you may make.

John_W 04-22-2012 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Missouri Bound (Post 904248)
You will need to remove the curved tiles at the wall. And the height is completely up to you by tile choice and any preperation you do for the tile: cement board, mortar, and any sub floor change you may make.

Hopefully, we can clean the existing tile - then lay the new tile directly onto the existing tile, using thin-set adhesive to cover small irregularities.

AndyGump 04-22-2012 01:48 AM

Whatever you do please for the love of god, fix the toilet gap.
It doth offend mine eyes.

Andy.

John_W 04-22-2012 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump (Post 904300)
Whatever you do please for the love of god, fix the toilet gap.
It doth offend mine eyes.

Andy.

:laughing:

Yeah. I was really surprised when I took the old toilet out and discovered that the new one wouldn't reach the floor.

idlewatcher 05-14-2012 10:29 PM

John, your last photo looks like the transition from the bathroom to the *other* room is generally the same height. Although you can't tell the height difference all that well, it appears that applying new tile over your existing tile would create a step up. Is that the case?

I'd also recommend going with a larger sized tile 8x8's or 12x12's. The smaller sized tiles make an already small bathroom appear even smaller.

John_W 05-15-2012 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idlewatcher (Post 921601)
John, your last photo looks like the transition from the bathroom to the *other* room is generally the same height. Although you can't tell the height difference all that well, it appears that applying new tile over your existing tile would create a step up. Is that the case?

Yes, with the new tile layer, it will be a step up. I think we will need to change the threshold piece to a wedge that gets taller as you go from the hall carpet to the bathroom tile.

Any suggestions?

idlewatcher 01-25-2013 08:25 PM

Hi John, just noticed I never responded! My apologies! What ever happened? Get everything fixed up?

John_W 02-04-2013 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idlewatcher (Post 1102163)
Hi John, just noticed I never responded! My apologies! What ever happened? Get everything fixed up?

Nothing yet.

I now think I will ask a plumber to look at the cast iron pipe/flange and see what he thinks can safely be done to cut/lower it so the flange will be level with the new tile floor.

We haven't put in the new tile yet either.

idlewatcher 02-07-2013 10:20 AM

I'm dealing with a similar issue in my bathroom (relocating the toilet 4" away from the drain). Just be sure that you have a minimum of 1/4" per linear foot of travel. My issue is also with cast iron so I'm thinking I will have to replace everything with ABS or PVC.

As for your tile, it's much simpler than most people make it out to be. Toughest part is the removal of the old tile and replacing the underlayment (if needed). I do know that they make a wedge transition piece that is adjustable on one side (so if one side is lower, it will compensate for the change in height).

Good luck and keep us posted!

John_W 02-08-2013 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idlewatcher (Post 1111591)
I'm dealing with a similar issue in my bathroom (relocating the toilet 4" away from the drain). Just be sure that you have a minimum of 1/4" per linear foot of travel. My issue is also with cast iron so I'm thinking I will have to replace everything with ABS or PVC.

As for your tile, it's much simpler than most people make it out to be. Toughest part is the removal of the old tile and replacing the underlayment (if needed). I do know that they make a wedge transition piece that is adjustable on one side (so if one side is lower, it will compensate for the change in height).

Good luck and keep us posted!

Thanks for the ideas and info. Good luck to you too.

We had planned to get the new tile put on top of the old. That's what the guy at the decorating center suggested. I will ask about the cost and practicality of removing the original layer of tile.

On the cast iron toilet drain, a plumber told me that if we cracked a pipe, especially one of the curved ones where both toilets pipes meet and head for the sewer, that "it" would "all" have to be replaced. Sounded like a scary, expensive mess. I don't want to go there.

I'm hoping we (a plumber, not me) can remove the cast iron flange from the riser(?), cut the top off the riser - flush with the tile floor, and put on a new flange. All without disturbing any of the cast iron pipes/joints down in the crawl space.

idlewatcher 02-08-2013 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_W (Post 1112326)
Thanks for the ideas and info. Good luck to you too.

I'm hoping we (a plumber, not me) can remove the cast iron flange from the riser(?), cut the top off the riser - flush with the tile floor, and put on a new flange. All without disturbing any of the cast iron pipes/joints down in the crawl space.

No problem John, happy to add some insight. Fortunately for me, tomorrow I have a friend who is a plumber coming over to confirm my thoughts :thumbsup: I plan to relocate the toilet over 4' and back 3' so via Pythagorean theory, 3-4-5 right triangle.

One thing I'm curious about, however, is how to remove a cast iron "receiving hub" (still don't know the terminology) that only has one of two outlets and replace it with a PVC or ABS one. I've seen the Fernco vids and several forum posts, but it seems like that particular piece of the puzzle eludes me. Any insight from your end?

As far as tiling over tile, although I'm not a pro but do have fairly extensive experience with tiling, I would venture to guess that wouldn't be ideal. If the subfloor for whatever reason becomes unfastened or there is movement, then that will pose a huge problem for the new tile. Also, you have to make sure that the subfloor is in fact sound before any tile is layed anyway, plus the added weight of a new layer of thinset, tile and grout could possible be too much for your floors to handle.


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