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Old 05-16-2013, 08:37 PM   #1
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bathroom subfloor


hey guys, i just tore out my bathroom flooring (vinyl and 1/4 underlayment) and what a job that was... the remaining subfloor is only 1/2", the bathroom floor is 5'x10' and the joists are 16" apart running the long way (10' length in b/r).

i understand the subfloor/hardi backer combo must be 1 1/4" total thickness, and you use 1/4" hardi, so i am needing another 1/2" of plywood subflooring to meet this. one of my questions is that the current 1/2" floor moves a little when i bounce on it. it doesnt creak or make much noise, just moves a little. should the 1/2" of plywood on top prevent the excessive movement of the subfloor? also, should i use 1 1/4" drywall screws to screw the next layer of plywood into the studs, or use nails?

finally, the toilet flange i have is cast iron, and i am still scraping out the 1/4" underlayment from under it. the flange and drain move up and down a little, so should i cut out the flange and install a new one on top of the new subfloor or can i hold it up and sandwich the new subfloor under it in 2 or more pieces? im guessing that the extension ring ill need goes into the flange to bring the ring above the tile, correct?

sorry so long, but thanks in advance for reading

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Old 05-16-2013, 08:49 PM   #2
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hey guys, i just tore out my bathroom flooring (vinyl and 1/4 underlayment) and what a job that was... the remaining subfloor is only 1/2", the bathroom floor is 5'x10' and the joists are 16" apart running the long way (10' length in b/r).

i understand the subfloor/hardi backer combo must be 1 1/4" total thickness, and you use 1/4" hardi, so i am needing another 1/2" of plywood subflooring to meet this. one of my questions is that the current 1/2" floor moves a little when i bounce on it. it doesnt creak or make much noise, just moves a little. should the 1/2" of plywood on top prevent the excessive movement of the subfloor? also, should i use 1 1/4" drywall screws to screw the next layer of plywood into the studs, or use nails?

finally, the toilet flange i have is cast iron, and i am still scraping out the 1/4" underlayment from under it. the flange and drain move up and down a little, so should i cut out the flange and install a new one on top of the new subfloor or can i hold it up and sandwich the new subfloor under it in 2 or more pieces? im guessing that the extension ring ill need goes into the flange to bring the ring above the tile, correct?

sorry so long, but thanks in advance for reading
Jonesheet, were did you get 1 1/4" total thickness from? Cement board doesn't hold strength.

If the ply is only moving screw it down with galvanized screws. If the joists are moving that's another issue. You can sister the joists for extra stability.

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Old 05-16-2013, 09:05 PM   #3
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I consider 3/4" plywood to be enough if it's good quality and not water damaged---If you wish to add a second layer of 1/2" BC exposure one ply over the half that is existing --go ahead--

Use galvanized screws and do not screw it into the floor joists----screws spaced 8" apart--

As Jetsweat mentioned--the backer board add on structural strength--so use 1/4" unless you need the height.

Always set the backer into a bed of fresh thinset---lay it like a giant tile--then nail it with roofing nails or Rock screws follow the directions for nailing.

I prefer Durrock or wonder board. Hardi backer I will not use---
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:43 PM   #4
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Thanks for the quick responses. So I screw the second layer of plywood into the first layer and not into the joists? I understand the hardi doesn't add strength, just for mating the tile. Thanks again
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:46 PM   #5
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Yep--avoid the framing----long complicated reason--but, yes screw it down to the old sheeting---
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:41 PM   #6
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so i put another layer of subfloor on today to make my total subfloor thickness 1". the whole floor is very sturdy and has no bounce except for where the thresh hold is. there is about 1/16" of movement if i step on it. i understand that backer board doesnt add strength, but if i thinset and fasten the 1/4 hardi onto the subfloor, then lay ceramic tile, i would guess that i have a good chance of cracking the tiles over time. is there any way to fix this now? i really dont want to lay another resilient floor, but i also dont want to install tile just to have it crack down the road. thanks again guys, you have been a big help.
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:52 PM   #7
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so i put another layer of subfloor on today to make my total subfloor thickness 1". the whole floor is very sturdy and has no bounce except for where the thresh hold is. there is about 1/16" of movement if i step on it. i understand that backer board doesnt add strength, but if i thinset and fasten the 1/4 hardi onto the subfloor, then lay ceramic tile, i would guess that i have a good chance of cracking the tiles over time. is there any way to fix this now? i really dont want to lay another resilient floor, but i also dont want to install tile just to have it crack down the road. thanks again guys, you have been a big help.
This floor isnt over a basement is it? Did you overlap or offset your plywood seams from 1st to 2nd layer?
This is entry door threashold?
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:04 PM   #8
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Its our 2nd floor bathroom. I offset all of the seams on the 2nd layer, yes it is the entry way
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:11 PM   #9
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Its our 2nd floor bathroom. I offset all of the seams on the 2nd layer, yes it is the entry way
A control joist must be used at doorways. Meaning you will have to silicone and not grout that line at the door if you continue your tile to next room unless you use a marble saddle for transistion between wood and tile or carpet and tile.

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