Bathroom and laminate flooring

impvme

I'm having to replace a large part of the floor of a small(56" x 45") half bath. The sub floor was I think pine planks with particle board on top, all rotted due to a failed wax ring. The toilet has been removed and I will be sistering the joist but can I replace the needed part of the floor with 3/4 and 1/2 pressure plywood? Crawl space under bath/house...house on conrete pad....raised- not manufactur or mobile home. Do I also need the roofing felt between first level and second of plywood? And what underly for lino or vinyl.....not sure which of those two will be used yet.

After bath proj I will be installing Artisan 12mm laminate in the adjoing bed room. I read somewhere that you can put furniture on completed areas of the floor before the entire floor is installed. Is this true or will it push the remaining floor out of aligenment? Also even though the install guide states that the flooring can be cut with a cir or hack saw some friends recommemd that I get(read rent) a table saw to make very streight cuts...good advice or no?

Thanks
V.

mgsproperties

Yes you can use 3/4" and 1/2" plywood. no need for felt paper in between the plywood.

AtlanticWBConst.

I would not suggest using P.T. plywood. The reason is because the P.T (all P.T. wood), will shrink slightly as it dries out. Anything that you attach to it, will be affected. Just use standar 3/4" T&G or 3/4" Plywood. Even on new construction that is the norm (standard).

I am not sure what you mean by this. You must be planning on building up the original flooring by one layer. If that is the case, then, yes, the roofing felt will help minimize any wood-layer friction.

A sanded plywood (at least the side facing up).

It should be alright. When you are installing the floor, you are setting it in place with the required "gap" between the flooring edges and any stationary things (like walls). You are not "moving" the floor as you install it. The gaps are left for when the floor expands and contracts due to climate/ humidity/weather...

Please do yourself a favor and purchase/borrow/rent a table saw. If you have access to another saw: try to obtain a sliding compound saw for the cross cuts of the flooring planks as well.

Good Luck on your project.

__________________
- Build Well -

26yrsinflooring

For the vinyl flooring issue: If you overlay any plywood with glue down vinyl you void your warranty you must overlay it with 1/4 Birch underlayment first stapled or naile on 3-5 inch centers.

The reason is the the moisture in the glue will raise the grain of the plywood and you will have a nice wood grain look photograph right through the vinyl. You can avoid this by purchasing a no glue vinyl.

This has been a common practice for the last 10 years.
1st They suggested Luan but luan lead to yellowing and had many voids so it was changed to exterior grade 1/4, birch falls in this group few suppliers stock an exterior grade luan.

For the laminate: You can move your furniture on top of the floor to work from side to side. If you are concerned about the floor moving block it in with extra peices of laminate stuck between the floor and the wall. after you get the room done, remove your blocks install your shoe mold.

No problem!

impvme

thanks for the info all. And Atlantic...what I meant by the crawlspace info was just to identify that the house is not directly on a cem pad but over a raised uninsulated crawl space over the pad. So I'm expecting to be able to see the cem when i look down through the hole I'm getting ready to cut/rip in the floor.

After I rip out the damaged floor I hope I wont have to build up the replacement floor any

I will get a table saw or a sliding compound one. And great to hear about the floor. Didnt really want to have to move the VERY heavy furniture around much.

Thanksagain.