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Old 07-09-2008, 10:24 PM   #1
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Bath Tile Job


Hey guys,

Iím getting ready to do my first porcelain tile job. Itís a small bathroom, 42 sq ft. The previous floor was ceramic that I pulled up already. The subfloor is a cement slab. I do see two areaís with 1/8Ē cracks. Thereís also a small amount of thin-set residue on the floor from the previous tile. Questions;
  • Should I consider a better saw?
  • Do I need to get the entire amount of thin-set residue up? If so, how?
  • What other supplies are required?
  • A local HW store recommended REDGAURD anti fracture membrane for the cracks? What are your opinions?
  • What is the best way to layout my diagonal pattern, a chalk line? Any tricks for doing this?
  • Any problem with using PolyBlend Grout?
  • What mortar do you recommend?
Remember, this is my first tile job so take it easy on me.
Thanks in advance!

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Old 07-09-2008, 10:42 PM   #2
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Bath Tile Job


Redgard is a moisture barrier not a crack isolation. They claim it will work but I do not trust it. I only use for moisture repellant.
Now if you use with a fibermesh it would work.
If you need a good crack isolation membrane consider Ditra or slip sheetstyle membrane like Nac Tac.

MK makes a great saw. I have big Target and small Felker but MK's work well.

Polyblend is fine,I prefer Mapei.

Layout:You are in a small area, center the room and chalk your line both ways,then lay the tile point point on the chalklines. get some good hard plastic spacers like Mr Tavys Tile spacers, do all you full tiles and go home for the day. you will only be able to lay about 5 tiles
The next day when you return bring a template> square the size of one tile measure diagonal<
Use you template to complete the wall cuts

Be sure to use a good piece of Schluters Schiene at the doorway unless you go with marble threshold.... oh yeah... be sure to undercut your door casing it gives better looking job and saves you a bunch of trouble.

Good luck, I am sure some the locals will be by to put thier opinion in the only one I can vouch for is Bud Cline,I don't know any of the others.

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Old 07-09-2008, 10:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26yrsinflooring View Post
Redgard is a moisture barrier not a crack isolation. They claim it will work but I do not trust it. I only use for moisture repellant.
Now if you use with a fibermesh it would work.
If you need a good crack isolation membrane consider Ditra or slip sheetstyle membrane like Nac Tac.

MK makes a great saw. I have big Target and small Felker but MK's work well.

Polyblend is fine,I prefer Mapei.

Layout:You are in a small area, center the room and chalk your line both ways,then lay the tile point point on the chalklines. get some good hard plastic spacers like Mr Tavys Tile spacers, do all you full tiles and go home for the day. you will only be able to lay about 5 tiles
The next day when you return bring a template> square the size of one tile measure diagonal<
Use you template to complete the wall cuts

Be sure to use a good piece of Schluters Schiene at the doorway unless you go with marble threshold.... oh yeah... be sure to undercut your door casing it gives better looking job and saves you a bunch of trouble.

Good luck, I am sure some the locals will be by to put thier opinion in the only one I can vouch for is Bud Cline,I don't know any of the others.
Is Ditra considered a crack isolation membrane?
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:22 PM   #4
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  • Should I consider a better saw?
No. The weakest part of the saw will most likely be the blade. That saw with a good quality blade will be just fine

  • Do I need to get the entire amount of thin-set residue up? If so, how?
Get up as much as you can. A large scraper works well. You don't want any remaining ridges that will interfere with laying of the new tiles. When you press the new tile down, you're looking for a good bond between the thinset and tile. Any old thinset ridges may stop you from getting as much coverage as possible.

  • What other supplies are required?
Aside from what's already been suggested, you need a trowel to spread the thinset. 1/4" x 3/8" 1/4" square notched should work.
A rubber grout float.
A few buckets.
If you have a 1/2" drill, get a mixing paddle.
Sponges for grout clean up.
Tavys spacers!!!

  • A local HW store recommended REDGAURD anti fracture membrane for the cracks? What are your opinions?
While Custom says RedGard IS a crack prevention membrane, I agree with 26years. Actually, any horizontal crack in concrete will cause you problems. I don't know of any membrane that will suppress tile or grout failure if the horizontal crack moves (grows) enough. However, something is better than nothing. I would also vote for Ditra.

  • What is the best way to layout my diagonal pattern, a chalk line? Any tricks for doing this?
Go with what 26years said. Take a bit of hairspray and go over your chalk lines. This will help them from getting wiped away on you.

  • Any problem with using PolyBlend Grout?
No. However, assuming your grout lines will be over 1/8", make sure you get sanded grout.

  • What mortar do you recommend?
Depends. If you choose to use Ditra as a membrane, in this case, you'd need to use unmodified thinset for laying both the Ditra and the tile. I'd recommend Mapei Kerabond. If you go directly over the cement (no membrane or choose to use RedGard), Versabond Flex would be OK. I too prefer Mapei product. Ultraflex 2 would be my recommendation from them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 26yrsinflooring View Post
Good luck, I am sure some the locals will be by to put thier opinion in the only one I can vouch for is Bud Cline,I don't know any of the others.
Yeah, well who can vouch for you
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:44 PM   #5
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26yearsintheflooringtrade.....can


Edit:
O yeah; the trowel should be a 1/2x1/2 square notch for large format tile. I assume you knew you would need mixing tools a, sponge and a float kinda hard to do it without.
We can't have you going off without the correct info.

I doubt you need the Ditra unless the floor is cracked up real bad, never hurts to be safe.

Kerabond is good Kerafloor is cheaper and will work just as good with Ditra.

If no Ditra use Ultraflex it is a little more expensive but it works great with large format tiles.
If no Mapei is available any good premium modified thinset will work.

Remember 1/2x12/ trowel notch! or you will get hollowspots that the customer will not find until the day the blow dryer hits the floor and hear the hollow thud.

Last edited by 26yrsinflooring; 07-10-2008 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 07-10-2008, 08:21 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone! You guys are a great help!

If I use Ditra or a like membrane does getting up the remaining thin-set residue become less important? There's not much and scapping it is tough work. I would like to avoid it if it's not necessary.

Thanks again!
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Old 07-10-2008, 08:36 AM   #7
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I'm sorry, I missed the part where you specified 18" tiles. Since you're going over a cement slab, I'd too go with the larger trowel (1/2" x 1/2").
I larger the tile, the more important it is to have a level surface. Since you're using 18" tiles, you want the slab as smooth and level as possible. Thinset can only make up so much for an uneven surface.
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Old 07-10-2008, 08:42 AM   #8
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I would still get as much off as possible if ya wanna learn to do ceramic you need to expect some hard work ahead of you.
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Old 07-10-2008, 12:22 PM   #9
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ok thanks all!
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:50 PM   #10
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Another layout question...

The room has two areas although one room. See the diagram. Do I center the room on the left side where the tub and sink are (the sink is not installed yet) and when I lay the tile just continue to extend the tile into the toilet area?

Last edited by tate16t; 08-12-2012 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 07-12-2008, 03:57 PM   #11
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I would use this as a start point. This will be a time consuming job, take your time cover you bases
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Old 07-12-2008, 04:19 PM   #12
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You will need to know the base on the cabinet so you can center;wall to cabinet ,it will be either 15" or 18" from the wall with a 4" toekick I would try to center off the door but in this case it is inset on the right so it will look off if once you are in the bathroom.

If the customer request you could pull your neutral line to the doorway center. Sometimes they like to see that tile center from the hall.

Play with it, drylay it, see what looks the best, if the client knows your are green they will feel better if they have some input. If they dont know dont tell em.

The other line in front of the tub keep the center that is now your control line each flow to the right or left will come off that line.
make sure the two lines are square you may not have enough room for 3-4=5 square, if you do use it.

Last edited by 26yrsinflooring; 07-12-2008 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 07-12-2008, 07:54 PM   #13
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I concur with 26years.

Tate, are you a DIYer or doing this as a job? If you're starting to tile for a living there are a few websites I'd direct you to so you can read and post questions with flooring pros....well more than there are here.

DRY FIT!!!!!
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Old 07-12-2008, 08:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angus242 View Post
I concur with 26years.

Tate, are you a DIYer or doing this as a job? If you're starting to tile for a living there are a few websites I'd direct you to so you can read and post questions with flooring pros....well more than there are here.

DRY FIT!!!!!
Hey guys. For now I'm a DIYer but that could change.

FYI - the area across from the toilet is a closet.

Last edited by tate16t; 07-12-2008 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:45 AM   #15
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Yeah I noticed that. I was going to tell when you lay your full tiles plan ahead our when you get to the closet or it will wear you out.

I would cut a pattern out of cardboad on those closet leg sides

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