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Old 11-29-2011, 05:42 PM   #1
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Backerboard Holes


Yes, my first new tile job, in the kitchen of my 1955 house, where the sub-floor is 3/4" plywood and installing 1/4 cement type backerboard before the new ceramic tile goes down. AHOY! I made a mistake! I dry ran some pieces of backerboard wrong side up, (until I read the label) drilled pilot holes for #6 screws and made countersinks for each, but did not screw or mortar them in yet.

Is it OK to just flip the backerboards over to the correct side up, but screw in using a different location? This leaves holes in the backerboard where I pre-drilled and pre-countersank.

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Old 11-29-2011, 06:06 PM   #2
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Backerboard Holes


Not a problem. Just act as if it never happened and move forward. The backerboard gets set in a fresh bed of thinset anyway so no harm no foul.

You are setting the cement board in fresh thinset (as required) are you not?

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Old 11-29-2011, 06:47 PM   #3
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Backerboard Holes


That is really good news - I did not sleep very well last night after I found I had put the backerboards wrong side up. I guess they won't crack or anything with the extra holes I made.
Thank-you! Ol Rick
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:48 PM   #4
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(YES!, I am putting fresh mortar beneath the boards).
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:00 PM   #5
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You can use either side of the cement backer boards, it doesn't matter. There is no "wrong side". One side is coarse and the other is a little smoother but in this case either side is fine. Some cement boards offer a slight taper at the edges on one side but it still doesn't matter.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:04 PM   #6
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Once again, good advise from Bud. Good to see there are still some intelligent people out there willing to give good advise, along with common sense.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
You can use either side of the cement backer boards, it doesn't matter. There is no "wrong side". One side is coarse and the other is a little smoother but in this case either side is fine. Some cement boards offer a slight taper at the edges on one side but it still doesn't matter.
While I agree there's no "wrong side", I was told one side is better if using thinset and the other if using mastic (but don't recall which is which).
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:57 AM   #8
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Backerboard Holes


A lot of extra work doing all that predrilling and counter sinking. Just use an impact screw gun and run the screws in with no predrilling needed. That's why real tile board screws have a shallow angled counter sink on the back side.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
While I agree there's no "wrong side", I was told one side is better if using thinset and the other if using mastic (but don't recall which is which).
The smoother side is said to be for use with mastic but anyplace you would consider cement board necessary wouldn't be the place to use mastic anyway.

You guys buy-into whatever stories you want to buy-into from whomever you care to buy-into them, matters not.

I wonder if the two different textures from side-to-side on cement boards could have anything to do with the manufacturing process and not necessarily be a deliberate act?
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:13 PM   #10
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Backerboard Holes


I've never pre-drilled a concrete backer, but then again I rarely used Hardie and also used a roofing nail gun most of the time, on floors of course. Seems Hardie was giving some people fits getting the screws flush.

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A lot of extra work doing all that predrilling and counter sinking. Just use an impact screw gun and run the screws in with no predrilling needed.
Great idea, but maybe this first time tile diy'er doesn't have one of those. I'm gonna bet he doesn't.

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Old 11-30-2011, 01:20 PM   #11
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That Impact screw gun is worth it's weight in gold. I've got 3, Ryobi brand guns ($69.00 instead of the $150.00 plus other brands cost) and my guys use them every day.
Works great on stubborn handle screws then working on plumbing, painted over screws, doing decking ect.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:23 PM   #12
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Backerboard Holes


The advice was really good. I put the backer board down (180sf) using screws that were labeled #9 with rideges to countersink. This worked good using my 3/8 electric drill and a phillips screw drive. In fact I was pleased with my work as a first timer. I also flipped the remaining 3 x 5 pieces of board so the rough side was down.

Now I got another problem I could use your help, please! One piece of backer board has a slight ridge where it adjoins the next piece, lengthwise so it is 5' long. The ridge must have happened when I did not get screws into the board close enough to the edge. I was about to lay my 12 x 12 tiles when I saw and felt each tile I pre-placed rocked back and forth. UGH! So I tried wet sanding the tape and mortar joint some, and it lowered the ridge a little. Still each of the 5 tiles will rock about 1/8"! Oh no....what is a way I can lay the tiles without causing them to break?

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