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Old 07-15-2008, 07:08 PM   #16
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You don't need a respirator, you just need to open your windows and allow for plenty of ventilation, forced and/or natural.

What you need to do is:

First; get the concrete saturated with water so that it doesn't wick in any solvent. You can do that by scraping the black adhesive off in places (the more the better) and spray your floor down with water from a garden sprayer or mop the water onto your floor. Allow for PLENTY of time for the water to be absorbed into the concrete.

When you are ready to start removing the adhesive, just dry the area with some rags or something. You want to remove any surface water, but leave the concrete saturated with water (so that it looks dark like it normally does when wet).

Now, you need to emulsify the adhesive, and you do that by first dissolving it in mineral spirits (paint thinner). Pour some paint thinner out and spread it over an area of about 6 to 8 square feet. The adhesive will dissolve readily in the paint thinner, but agitate with a steel brush to get it all dissolved. Maybe put up newspaper or something around your walls so they don't get spattered with black paint thinner from the brush.
By the time you're finished, you should have a black mess on the floor.

Now, pour equal amounts of BOTH Simple Green and Mr. Clean down onto your black slimey mess, and agitate with another brush. The agitation will mix the solvent with the two soaps, resulting in the formation of gazillions of "micelles" each of which contains a tiny droplet of mineral spirits black with adhesive. You should see that the black mess turns into a grey mess as those micelles form.

Now, clean the grey mess off the floor with a sponge and bucket of water.

NOW, buy a supply of sponges for his. As you use the sponge you'll be breaking those micelles on the surface of the sponge, and that will result in the solvent and adhesive getting on the sponge. You could clean your sponges with the Simple Green and Mr. Clean, but the squeezing action causes the solvent and adhesive to work their way into the sponges so that you wouldn't be able to use them for anything else anyway.

Try doing that in one area, and report your results. Time is on your side in every step of this procedure. I would keep the concrete wet for

Since the adhesive is always either underwater or dissolved in mineral spirits, dust never has a chance to form.


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Old 07-15-2008, 07:44 PM   #17
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ok i like the method. will oderless mineral spirits work the same as regular paint thinner ( its the same right ) also instead of using sponges, could i spray the dissolved glue into the drain with the pressure attachment on my hose? although i dont think this will work, it seems the way you described, the sponge part is necessary. but anyway a hose would be alot easier.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:54 PM   #18
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Mineral spirits, paint thinner, "solvent" and Varsol are all the same thing. The only difference is that Varsol is more expensive because it's Esso's trade name for mineral spirits. Esso is the Canadian subsidiary of the Exxon company. So, in order for a gallon of paint thinner to be allowed to be called "Varsol", it had to have been purchased from Esso. Since Esso also made a profit selling it to the store, that gallon will cost a little more than a gallon of anyone else's paint thinner, solvent or "mineral spirits". Stores stock "Varsol" only cuz people ask for it by name, and they won't buy paint thinner instead because they think there's a difference.

Odourless mineral spirits is just paint thinner where they've removed the aromatic hydrocarbons. The remaining aliphatic hydrocarbons will still evaporate and produce a vapour as they do, but you just can't smell it. If you feel yourself getting light headed, then take a break and turn on a fan.

"could i spray the dissolved glue into the drain with the pressure attachment on my hose?"
I wouldn't. If it were me, I would carry those buckets of emulsion and pour them down a storm drain on your street. If your floor drain were to back up from a heavy rain a month or two later, you could have that stuff all over your basement floor again.

You could use a wet/dry vaccuum cleaner to suck the emulsion off the floor, tho. You'll still be left with the problem of disposing of the emulsion.

Also, if you have a heat gun, I'd try heating the glue and scraping it just to open up areas where water can get wicked into the concrete. The dirty paint thinner won't wick into wet concrete, so you want to try to make that concrete wet before removing the adhesive from it.

Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 07-15-2008 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:23 PM   #19
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Please Be advised that Asbestos in any amounts, if tested "friable" deserve to be treated with extreme caution and care.

Now, if you want to have total disregard for your own safety and anyone elese that may encouter the airborne particulite, then proceed and suffer the "Grave" consequences.

Do you need substantiation to back up that warning?

Just don't be a fool!!!

One persons idiotic rationalization may cause serious harm to your health.

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Old 07-15-2008, 09:31 PM   #20
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This thread has been closed, this is for everyones safety, asbestos is not something to take lightly, it is dangerous and not healthy to mess with it.

Professional services are out there to deal with this hazard, use them, don't go by what someone might say on here.


Fix it right the first time, so you won't have to fix it a 2nd time.

2008 Oregon Specialty Plumbing Codes
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