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Old 01-16-2014, 09:20 PM   #16
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

Originally Posted by northernlite View Post
I covered my very unlevel basement floor with something similar to the dricore. It's a long story but I created a mostly level base and then put down 4 x 8 sheets of 3/4" T&G with 1" of foam glued to the underside. I attached them down with tapcons, hundreds of them. About 30-40 per 4x8 sheet.
I tried hammer drills but it was a huge waste of time, bits and money.
Bought a SDS drill for $140 and that made all the difference. Worth every penny. I would advise you get one, you'll be happy you did. I used an impact driver to set the tapcons. Wore out my cordless dewalt and went to an electric 1/2" impact wrench, like you'd use on car tires. Worked great.
Yeah using a Bosh Bulldog with SDS bits for the holes, HUGE difference vs a hammer drill. using hammer drill to drive the tapcons, but they always stop at about 1 inch left to go, then the drill spins uncontrollably and strips the head. If I'm lucky it will jam, giving me a chance to stop the power, reverse, then drive and I can eventually get it in.

I want to try an impact though, maybe that will make driving the tapcons easier.

If I can get to a point where I can insert the tapcons in one shot without fighting with them I can then put some PL Premium on them too for some extra hold. But I don't want to do that when I'm spending in some cases half an hour fighting with it to screw in, as it will start to dry. That should ensure they never pull out.

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Old 01-16-2014, 09:42 PM   #17
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

I broke more than a lot of screws, or twisted them off or stripped the threads. I discovered the length of screw was fairly critical. The instructions say the screw should imbed 1-1.25" (I think that's what it was), not more or less. That made a huge difference. I didn't bother with any glue.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:04 PM   #18
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

So I bought an impact driver, and damn that makes the world of a difference for driving tapcons. So I pretty much just ended up sticking with my original attempt at using tapcons. I'd say half of them end up breaking, but at least the other half are actually going in all the way now. I'm not using any kind of glue like I was going to do, hopefully these will hold and not start to pop after a while, but it feels like they will hold quite well.

I can jump up and down on the spots that I did and I don't feel the whole floor moving. This will be important especially where I plan to work out as I might want to do exercises that involve jumping or other fast movements.

I did not realize impact drivers had a completely different chuck, but the guy at Home Depot was quite helpful in finding me what I needed to ensure I can drive the tapcons. I always hear bad things about Home Depot but I have to admit they're usually fairly helpful at least at ours.
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:27 AM   #19
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

Thanks for the update---let us know if you try drilling and injecting a filler--
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:15 PM   #20
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

Just be sure to plug those new holes in the Dricore to keep the air/moisture below to equalize the pressure, Fig.3; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ms?full_view=1

That is a new problem you are having, I haven't read about it anywhere else yet... thanks for sharing.

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Old 01-21-2014, 09:31 PM   #21
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

Anchoring it to an uneven floor may mean that you'll 'transmit'? the unevenness to the surface and mess up future flooring like vinyl laminate, etc. or you'll then have to use levelling compound on the surface.

Given that talk is cheap here's my totally lay suggestion:

I think I'd want to identify the extent of the low areas by laying a long straight edge across the floor and then stand on the flooring to see where it sags under your weight. Then maybe chalk the perimeter.

Then maybe drill some small pilot holes to later run wood screws through them to lift the dry core off the concrete till it touches the bottom of the straightedge. At the same time drill some holes to allow you to very lightly foam each corner for more support. (But you risk lifting the dry core so this may be a stupid idea from which you could not recover! )

Then a bunch of of larger holes to squeeze in some sort of non expanding, near self levelling filler / or plain old levelling compound that would harden. ( is there anything in tubes for grease guns?)

Without the wood screws I would worry that the weight of the drycore itself would sag on the filler and/or the filler would squeeze back up through the holes.

Note: leaving the straight edge in place as a lift guide, I imagine you would want to 'float' over the workspace so you could also then use some sort of pier section / scaffold to straddle the compressible areas of the floor letting you sit on this bridge while injecting the filler into the flooring below you, thus avoiding having your own weight permanently squeeze it down. A piece of plywood laying on a ladder across the floor raised by some 4x4s at either end of the pier straddling the work area might work.

Then hit it with the wood screws till it's level to the straight edge, then shoot in the leveller material, then after a couple days or whatever pull the wood screws and test...

Last edited by KinNorth; 01-21-2014 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 03-02-2014, 07:56 PM   #22
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Any way to make dricore less bouncy?

I know I am not an expert and it's to late now. But your suppose to identify the low spots first with a straight edge so you can determine where to put the shims.

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