Allure Vinyl Plank "Click together"
Has anyone used the new Allure Vinyl Plank flooring at Home Depot that clicks together rather than the original product that used adhesive strips to glue together the planks. Does the click together work better than the glue together. I saw complaints about the planks coming apart with the glue method. The click looks a better product and seems to resolve most issues with the glue together type.
I like the look of the product and and it appears much more durable than laminate flooring. I am looking to install it in a suite covering the bedroom, living room, and kitchen. I like that it is water proof and a very hard surface which would be hard to dent and scratch. I have installed laminate before and was not very happy with the how it wears. Minor spills of water would damage the flooring if they were not immediatly cleaned up.
While planning to do floor with Allure, we dhttp://www.diychatroom.com/images/editor/menupop.gifid not selected this one (allure Ultra) simply because we wanted stone tile-like finish and Ultra comes for now only in wood-like finish.
Regardless, to learn more about the Ultra, I took two samples that had the male and female click features, snapped them together, placed small puddle of water on the surface and leave it overnight. Just to find out if it is indeed waterproof. Therefore it seems that the "waterproof" statement by Allure manufacturer is true. The water did not seep through the joint.
In my opinion Allure Ultra would work well, assuming that it is installed properly, meaning:
1) Do not damage the lockable features, especially the little ridge on the lower lip.
2) I believe that Allure Ultra must be on solid, not soft/flexible surface. Any "give" could result in disconnecting, and I also think that the seams would leak if there is some liquid and the floor gives if someone is walking on it.
The Allure Ultra samples are square pieces just under 4" per side. I scored one (2 strokes) and broke the piece into two without any problem. I do not know how difficultit would be to make cutouts within Allure Ultra plank. It could be challenging.
As mentioned elsewhere I did 240 Sq. Feet of kitchen floor using Cordoba by Allure (uses glued lips) and based on my experience with this one and from installing some 4000 sq. feet of laminate that uses the same locking scheme as the Allure Ultra, I believe that the Ultra should be much easier to work with that the Cordoba (1 foot wide and 3 feet long tiles).
I am probably going with this Allure product. I will report back if I have any problems, but to me is looks like a good durable product. I compared it to a similar product called Vinloc supplied by Windsor Plywood and it seems superior to the Vinloc and it is cheaper. I am installing it in a dry basement with a good concrete floor so I do not anticipate any problems with installation.
allure ultra intallation
I have been trying to install Allure Ultra vinyl plank flooring. This is the one without any glue strips. I am completely frustrated with the process. Every board that you connect makes the previous ones fall out of line. They do not really "click" together. The seams come apart very easily. I have redone the same section of the floor (where I began) 5 times and have given up for now. I am hoping that once the cabinets go in I can start laying the floor from the cabinets outward instead of from the inside wall out toward the cabinet area. If anyone knows of a trick to make this actually work as advertised I'd be happy to hear it.
It is true that it scores easily, and is very flexible. I am installing it over a solid floor, so that's not the problem. If I try to butt it against the wall (start point under a radiator) it slides out of place, causing gaps between the planks that beforehand were "clicked" together. I'm really spinning my wheels here. Many hours spent, nothing to show for it. Today I picked it all up and may try again once cabinets are in.
Interesting to hear your problem. I have never heard this before. I am looking to buy this flooring in a week or so, so if you have anything else to report I would appreciate it.
Is this installed on a concrete floor? Did you use an underlay of any kind because I have been told it is not recomended? Why would it be any better laying it from the cabinet out, how does this change anything?
Any more info would be great.
I agree-starting against the cabinets doesn't seem like it would change anything...but the only thought there is that when I started it across the room under the radiator I didn't butt it up against the wall, as the directions state to leave approx 1/8" for it to expand. So my wishful thinking is that if I butt it against the cabinets it will end up under the radiator across the room where I can them leave the slight gap that wouldn't be seen.
Supposedly it is to float attached to itself-but the main problem I had was that it was NOT connecting well to itself. The ultra has no glue strips.
It is going over a finished floor. Vinyl tiles.
Just picture this:
Several planks are connected to each other, then you add another and it throws one of the previous planks out of line. In order to remedy this you must remove all the planks that came after the one that fell out of line. And over and over again. That's how it was happening for me.
We have a guy in the house now looking to see if he can figure out the problem. He first said he would glue the first row down to prevent the shifting, but I don't think that is the way to go. We'll see.
Why not set some weighty objects on the first row or so to keep them still until you've enough connected?
What if you were to tape the completed seams until you get further along this happens with click laminate sometimes as well
I was playing with my two small sample pieces. I think you are lifting the "new" plank too high. I do not know how stiff the full length plank is - it probably bends some, making you to lift it too high. It looks that the lock disconnects if you lift the edge more than something close to even only 10 or so degrees. And that means even the thickness of one's fingers under the edge is enough to lose the lock .
I can only visualize it, but one approach could be one of two methods as follows:
A) you are installing new plank over the "male" edge of the previously installed piece:
1) you lock the short side of the plank first, but do not go with the plank all the way forward all the way to start locking the long edge; stay away
2) get yourself something to function like spacer, thick only enough to lift the long edge.
To lift the plank a' 8 degrees, you will need something 1 inch thick (assuming you do not go under the plank more than 0.5"), and as long as the plank. this will help you to keep the plank from bending and from lifting it's edge too much up.
3) after locking the short side and putting your "spacer under, just slide the plank forward until there is not gap on the long side and then slide the "spacer from under the plank, back toward you .
The "spacer" should look like "L" with the short leg pointing up - to be used as a handle to slide it out from under the plank.
Playing with the 4" samples, it looks like it should be possible to do it, even when the short side it locked. The material should be slippery enough.
B) You are installing new plank with it's "male" edge to be slipped under the previously installed planks front edge:
This could be easier, assuming the material is slippery enough.
1)Again, lock the short/side edge first, not going forward all the way again - leaving just a' 3/8" gap between the long edges.
2) lay the "new" plank flat on the floor and push it forward until the gap closes fully. You probably will need to lift the near edge of the plank up just a very small bit, something like 1/4 inch.
Tell us how you solved this dilemma, because I want to get Ultra as well.
allure flooring install
i am installing Allure Ultra right now in the living and dining room area on a cement slab. the install is going very well. it is an easy to install product and the click/locks seem to work fairly decent. There are small areas where the seams dont seem to match up but in my opinion, it makes it more look like hardwoods (which it really, reallly does!). I have lots of angles in the rooms and cutting and trimming has been very simple. Once you get the first few lines down it goes very fast. Just make sure your first rows are straight (if they arent you can actually move all the assembled product slightly to realign if you catch it in time). this product looks fantastic.
could never recommend allure ultra planks
The box says, "easiest floor ever!".
It's not. Not even close. :furious:
I am not a DIY.
I am a licensed general contractor with hands on experience in every aspect of home building.
Yes it's very easy to score and cut.
Yes I like the textured look of the finish.
And oh yes, it is just sooo easy to click together two pieces there on the shelf at Home Depot - gets a little tricky as soon as you hit that third plank and more so every row you build out.
In my experience with it, Allure Ultra Plank Flooring:
Does not install as claimed. Does not "click" together as claimed (VERY rare it would actually "click" together - maybe one out of 15 ). Very frustrating and time consuming to assemble and reassemble ...... and reassemble ... to get the joints tight - if the joints are not absolutely butted those tiny lines grow into gaps over time.
The only way I got it to go together and stay together was using a long wood block, positioning the plank at the correct angle, and whacking it into place. Once you are up against the far wall and have no room to do this, you must use a crow bar to pull them together.
Because of the negative reviews I had read on this product, I didn't want to take any chances on the flatness of the floor, so even where the concrete was within flatness specification ( 1/8" in 4' ) I still floated it out so I would be sure any problems were not related to the subfloor.
Wouldn't matter if you were putting this floor on a sheet of glass. It just does not install anything like the manufacturer describes.
In the time it took me to do a master bedroom and 1/3 of family room, I could have installed ceramic tile - with a lot less frustration, no scratches (yes, the finish scratches), and no worries wondering when the joints will come apart.
This product sounded too good to be true - but I had to try it for myself - never again.:no:
allure commercial grade installation
i had no problems whatsoever laying down an entire living room and dining room, about 1100sf, on a somewhat uneven concrete slab. I did the entire project by myself and it took 2 days. It looks fantastic, feels fantastic, and several of our neighbors have bought it as well. We liked it so much that I did our bedroom as well. those of you having trouble, i dont know what to say....i dont think hearing a "click" is the key to putting this together..must make sure you have a tight fit, give it a gentle "whack" and it will go together fine. There is no better comparable floor out there. Maybe the key is to buy the commercial grade....that comes with a lifetime residential warranty
I plan to lay the hall flooring with Allure Vinyl Click and the sales representative came to my house to measure how many square feet.
Then he discovered that the gap between the doors of my room and the hall flooring is less than 1cm, so I need to remove the door and shave the bottom to increase the gap to 1 cm.
Has anyone of you faced this challenge?
Did you install the Allure Click?
I work at Home Depot...this is a new product. I am very impressed with the original product (adhesive strips) however, I took a few pieces from an open case and tried to click them together.Couldn't keep it together either. It was embarrassing to have my customer standing there watching me too! So, I usually stay focused on the original Allure product. Feedback from contractors as well as DIY'ers has been very favorable with the adhesive product. The Allure is made by Halstead, not Trafficmaster. The company is helpful when you call. Try googling it. Get customer service number, and ask. I do know Halstead stands behind their product strongly. Maybe that will help? Or just stick with the original product, (less expensive anyway)
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