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chipraynor 12-28-2011 07:33 AM

adding hardwood to Hardwood?? HELP
 
I am looking to add to my existing hardwood. I have a vertical line (where the cabinets were installed) about 4ft to the wall and about 15ft or more feet. I have a box left over so matching the wood isn't an issue.

I'm looking for info on how I remove the current flooring; witch is tongue and grooved and nailed, to allow me to keep the floor look seamless.

My though was to start at the last seem or board in a row. Cut a line an 1/8 inch in around the tongue and grove, somehow get the nails out allowing me to insert a new board. am i on the right track.

I plan to have them all sanded and refinished professionally. I just wanted to have the floor laid. The current "L"shapped area is missing from the old kitchen cabinets, thanks again for the help and info

oh'mike 12-28-2011 07:48 AM

It would be easier to help with a picture--

Sounds like some will need to be 'laced' in --meaning that some of the old will have to be removed.

I just use a Skill Saw and a sharp chisel to remove them--then a good pair of side cutters to clip the stables or cleats---a grinder might be handy for the nails,but I've never tried that.

Wear goggles and gloves---you will hit nails.--Mike--

Ironlight 12-28-2011 08:11 AM

Yes you want to "tooth" the new wood in so it is staggered with the old wood. Start by pulling up some of the shorter pieces that end right up against the line where the cabinets were. These will be replaced with longer pieces that extend back into the newly covered area.

As Mike mentioned, the usual method is to use a chisel and some sort of rotary or multi-tool. A rotary tool with a rasp works best as you can plunge it in then move it along the edge of a board to separate it from it's tongue.The boards are nailed in at the edge of the tongue so the board can then be pried up.

Here is an area that I had repaired under a wall that was taken out. You can see that to get a good stagger, more of the floor was taken out so that full boards could be toothed in:

http://www.diychatroom.com/members/i...26-photo-4.jpg

tcleve4911 12-28-2011 08:25 AM

To remove a T&G board, I cut two slots about 1/4-3/8" apart right down the middle of the board. Sawing in the middle will avoid hitting the nails.
Once you have this "slot" cut, remove it and the remaining scraps will have room to clear the T&G's holding them in.
Work a small pry bar/ molding bar under the cut edges and carefully work the scraps out.

Watch this guy...it'll get you going in the right direction...Part 1&2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PM9H0...eature=related

chipraynor 12-28-2011 02:53 PM

Thanks for the help...

1 question, i have some long pieces, like 4-5 ft. do i need to go back to the seem on the single board or can (should) i cut the board in the middle. If that make sense.

Thanks again to all who replied

iamj6g 12-28-2011 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chipraynor (Post 805651)
Thanks for the help...

1 question, i have some long pieces, like 4-5 ft. do i need to go back to the seem on the single board or can (should) i cut the board in the middle. If that make sense.

Thanks again to all who replied

Ideally, you want to do this in as few pieces as possible.

Look for your longest, straightest boards.

Mark and Cut them to size (within 1/16'' of an inch).

Cut the back groove off the length of the board at 30-32degree bevel.

Straight cut the end groove off, below the face of the board.

Use liquid nail on the bottom of the board, and work it into place with your mallet

If you want to secure it more, you can brad nail it and putty.


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