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Old 02-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #16
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


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Originally Posted by Gail45 View Post

I have 3 walls that have joists running perpendicular to the wall and one wall where the joist is running parallel to the wall. I'd supply pics but I've only cut out small sections of the for exploratory investigation of joist size, direction, spacing, etc..

I'll get some pics once I pull out the floor.
Ok sounds good. Just so you know the ends of plywood always need to be attached down if nothing is there you will have to make it by framing, blocking, sistering ect.

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Old 02-20-2013, 03:23 PM   #17
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Thx JetSwet for your help.

Any thoughts on the 5/8" vs 3/4" question from my post #14?
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:38 PM   #18
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


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Thx JetSwet for your help.

Any thoughts on the 5/8" vs 3/4" question from my post #14?
Go with 3/4" bc sanded or exposure 1
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:53 PM   #19
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Gail,

Go with the thickest you can. In your case the 5/8" would be good too, cuz of the 12" o.c.. Exposure 1.

Funny how your question is approaching 20 total replies here, and last I looked had 0 replies at the other forum. I wonder if the "Fred" vs. "Gail" has anything to do with it?

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Old 02-20-2013, 05:14 PM   #20
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


The mobile apps is what makes the forums like this one better imo lol... and doityourself is bottom of the list anyway.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:18 PM   #21
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


This makes 20 posts on this thread!!!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:40 PM   #22
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Jazman,

When you say go with the thickest, i.e. 3/4", is there really any real benefit to 3/4" + 3/8" over 5/8" + 1/2"? The reason I ask is the significant difference in putting in the 3/4" vs the 5/8".

Not sure why the difference in responses, Gail vs Fred, but that is quite funny.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:06 PM   #23
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Gail,

So that I don't have to read all the posts, why the second layer of ply over the subfloor? I remember you're gonna use Ditra, which will be fine for ceramic/porcelain. Or are you going with stone tiles? Do you have to remove the old OSB? Or is it a height matching issue?

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Old 02-21-2013, 07:15 AM   #24
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Jaz,

I have to remove a couple of very small areas due to some mould growth / slight water damage around the toilet. I also am changing the drain plumbing and venting location so need to pull up about maximum 1/3 of the flooring. I figured while I'm there I might as well replace it all just to ensure everything is on a good foundation. I was also concerned about If I pull up smaller sections that I have lessened the T&G benefit if I try and just screw it back down into added blocking. Am I missing something here?

Joist system is rated for L / 720.

My reason for the second layer is just added strength to the flooring as many have told me it sure helps to have the additional layer when tiling to help reduce deflection between the joists.

The original floor was 5/8" subfloor, 1/2" underlayment then 1/2" marble composite tile and was fine for the past 23 years without any damage.

If I just replace the 5/8" damaged sections and stay with most of the original floor do you think this will be strong enough for ceramic tile? for stone?

In terms of matching up with adjoining bedroom, that floor is 3/4" hardwood on top of the 5/8" OSB subfloor. In terms of height issues, I could go 5/8" subfloor, 3/8" overlayment, 1/8" floor heating, 1/8" Ditra and then tile and still be within 1/4- 3/8" difference in height. Or remove the additional overlayment and be really close on height.

Alternatively, albeit a lot more work, is to rip up all the 5/8" OSB, put down new 3/4" plywood, 1/8" heat, 1/8" Ditra, and then tile and I'd be almost level.

Obviously, 3/4" would be better than 5/8" without the additional overlayment.

I hope this is clear. Late night last night.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:13 PM   #25
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


OK, so go with 3/4", the thicker the better. You need a second sheet for natural stone, but single 3/4" + CBU or Ditra is more than enough for ceramic cuz of 12" o.c.

Add the 3/8" or 1/2" in case you decide on stone or just because.

Quote:
If I just replace the 5/8" damaged sections and stay with most of the original floor do you think this will be strong enough for ceramic tile? for stone?
For ceramic yes, for stone no.

Quote:
In terms of matching up with adjoining bedroom, that floor is 3/4" hardwood on top of the 5/8" OSB subfloor. In terms of height issues, I could go 5/8" subfloor, 3/8" overlayment, 1/8" floor heating, 1/8" Ditra and then tile and still be within 1/4- 3/8" difference in height. Or remove the additional overlayment and be really close on height.
Ditra will be 1/8" installed total. But the floor heat is gonna be thicker...no? You're using self leveling right? Doesn't it have to be much thicker than 1/8"? What are you gonna use?

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Old 02-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #26
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


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Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
OK, so go with 3/4", the thicker the better. You need a second sheet for natural stone, but single 3/4" + CBU or Ditra is more than enough for ceramic cuz of 12" o.c.

Add the 3/8" or 1/2" in case you decide on stone or just because.



For ceramic yes, for stone no.



Ditra will be 1/8" installed total. But the floor heat is gonna be thicker...no? You're using self leveling right? Doesn't it have to be much thicker than 1/8"? What are you gonna use?

Jaz
Just finalized the flooring today. It will be porcelain tile which I assume is similar to ceramic from a floor underlayment perspective.

Haven't really looked into the heating yet. I thought it was 1/8" thick installed. Any type you recommend?

thanks for your help Jaz.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:45 PM   #27
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Yes, porcelain is ceramic.

Most floor warming mats and wires are about 1/8". But remember you're gonna pour SLC over the mats which means it'll be at least 3/16, 1/4" or so at the highest spot of the floor and thicker where the floor is lower. Sometimes it's much thicker than first anticipated and why 90% or the DIY'ers don't buy enough SLC.

Warming mats.....? I like Warmly Yours. If you agree, drop me an IM or e-mail before you order. Just sent a couple to someone in Ontario.

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Old 02-21-2013, 10:34 PM   #28
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Thx JazMan,

I look into those heating mats. I also need to look into the level of my floor as I haven't, at this point, any idea as to how level it is but it did have tile on it before so....

I'll take the laser level out in the next few days and take a look.

I'll get in contact with you over the heating mats if I choose to go that way.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:36 AM   #29
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


Jazman,

Ok, starting to remove the flooring this week. Would be nice to go right to the wall but cutting that close is gonna be hard. What about if I leave about 1.5" of the old flooring around the walls; that's about the closest I can get with my circular saw. Then I'll glue down some 1/8" piece on top of the old 5/8" OSB to get level with the new 3/4" plywood.

I'll also have to add in some additional supports on the walls that run parallel to the joists for screwing of the edging of the new plywood and screwing of the old 5/8" strip that is left there. Don't want any flex in those areas.

What would you suggest for additional supports? 2 x 10 on edge (same size as existing joists) or can I get away with something a bit smaller?

thanks,
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:15 PM   #30
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5/8" or 3/4" subfloor.


The blocking for support doesn't have to be the same size as the joists. I recommend 2x6 min. but again, bigger is better.

Go ahead and cut the old floor as you stated.

Jaz

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Last edited by JazMan; 04-22-2013 at 08:22 PM.
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