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DIYWannabe · 01-25-2009, 01:30 AM

Hello out there- I want to clean the old wood floors then possibly re-stain them. I don't have the money to hire pro's and I might be able to skip the stain part if I can find someone to advise me enough of the way to get them clean. I think the floor is oak. Can I clean them then varnish and if so what products come to mind.

Bob Mariani · 01-25-2009, 07:38 AM

Clean and vanish? It depends on the condition. Are the a lot of scratches or gouges to remove. How picky are you? You could clean with a detergent that will remove any silicone residue from cleaners and you may also need something that could remove wax. Then sand with a pole sander. Use a waterborne polyurethane for the finish. Apply with same pole from sander (drywall tool) with a sponge applicator.

jaros bros. · 01-25-2009, 08:48 AM

If you're doing any sanding make sure you have done a lead check on the previous coating(s). If you have kids you will especially need to be careful.

Josh Jaros

Bob Mariani · 01-25-2009, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaros bros.

If you're doing any sanding make sure you have done a lead check on the previous coating(s). If you have kids you will especially need to be careful.

Josh Jaros

I never heard of lead based coatings for a floor. What would this be?

Knucklez · 01-25-2009, 12:43 PM

my friend, been there done that! check out my thread on the subject, maybe you'll find some useful tips.

CLICK HERE

Knucklez

DIYWannabe · 01-25-2009, 02:43 PM

Ok Thank you for your response. I looked at your floor pic's and the floor itself is not in as bad of shape as you found yours under old carpet. It has been exposed for as long as Mom had the house (40 years) and she mostly used a broom to sweep clean. I'm not picky-I just want to give it a fresh up. I don't know what type of wax she used initially but she did talk of some kind project one day she would attempt. It was a mix of turpentine, lineseed oil and maybe something else. The floors had area rugs but the hallway is a very beautiful parquet type of design which i suspect may be oak. So if I rent a sander to do that floor what type do I ask for and do you think I could handle the machine having no expierence whatsover? Should look for someone with experience to buzz the floor then I'll do the finish myself as it's not a huge area. I'm not into hiring someone who says they know to find out they are just hungry for any ol job and then the floor is ruined, know what I mean.

Bondo · 01-25-2009, 04:34 PM

Quote:

So if I rent a sander to do that floor what type do I ask for and do you think I could handle the machine having no expierence whatsover?

Ayuh,... Ask for a Floor Sander,... And any Tips they're offering....

Your project isn't Rocket Science,.... Just Common Sense...

Only You can decide if you're capable....

Bob Mariani · 01-25-2009, 04:53 PM

For a DIY the only sander to use is the one with three or more orbital disks. These will not gouge the floor, are very easy to use and will allow the total finishing job without a special buffer, drum sander and edge sander. The drum sander will allow the work to go faster, but without months of experience you will not get it right. And work through ever grit of paper. Do not skip any sizes. If you do not have a commercial vacuum plan on renting this also.

Knucklez · 01-31-2009, 01:50 AM

in addition, some more tips.

orbital or random square is more for refinishing floor. where you are just taking off a bit. you can use this with no experience, it is relatively idiot proof.

drum sander is for refurbishing floor. when you must strip to the original wood. also used to level the floor from humps in the wood. for big jobs, not just to go fast.
with drum sander:
- you must go in direction of grain of wood
- push down on handle to lift belt off floor.. start belt ... gently lower belt to floor and immediately start walking forward
- note, the PULL is VERY STRONG with belt/drum sander. it will take off like a rocket, i almost dropped the damned thing because i was not expecting this. i mean, it can pull you harder than water skiiing.. you just be strong. i am not strong guy, so i had to lean back with all my weight and walk forward as if i were walking down the steepest hill.
- experience is medium.. you have to be competent, but i never used it before in my life and got "reasonable" results. if you screw up, just give up and get an orbital. you'll have to sand out your drum sander "screw up", but otherwise its totally saveable. so its wroth a try, because the damage can be easily repaired if turns out you suck at it.

Knucklez

Knucklez · 01-31-2009, 01:52 AM

the edger will leave swirl marks. these are hard to see until AFTER you apply the stain. there is a way to check using some sort of varsal or something on the floor - maybe some pro can clarify. its good to check before the stain goes on.

but if you can't check, just take your time, use ALL the grits - especially with the edger - and be patient. go right to 220 grit with the edger to remove the swirls.

Bob Mariani · 01-31-2009, 06:58 AM

To see the swirls mentioned, wipe the floor with mineral spirits It will then look like the final finish. a good light held at an angle will also help. A strong vacuum is critical for getting a good finish.