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-   -   Small crafty project: Custom LED backlit 40"x60" frame for a canvas (http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/small-crafty-project-custom-led-backlit-40-x60-frame-canvas-167152/)

andrewss 12-22-2012 06:47 PM

Small crafty project: Custom LED backlit 40"x60" frame for a canvas
 
So I am a total noob to this forum (I hope this is an appropriate section given the different aspects of this project - granted it is not home renovation lol) and have a thread for this project on a bit art forum - and I have gotten some input there as far as construction of this lil thing goes but nothing much indepth.

I am also a noob to woodworking and electrical stuff.

Therefore this is a fun project for me to learn a few basic principles by practicing on this initial project I plan to keep up this creative building angle as I am collecting fun tools and stuff along the way.


ANYWAY - here is the progress and plan so far:

I have the backing framed out and with the plywood on it - I just got done doing my first machine sanding to the edges to make it fit flush and just a tiny bit recessed from the canvas. I test fit the canvas on the frame and made notes of where I need to focus on the next round of sanding to make it uniform (I am nitpicking this thing lol).

The interior will get white paint and the outside borders a satin/gloss black. Oh and some venting holes for the leds so heat isn't kept in the chamber.

So here are some pictures of how it stands now, I put the powersupply and dimmer and reel of leds in one of the pix so you could see what I am gonna work with electrically. I will need to figure out how to properly cut the reel into two 4.5' sections wired up to the dimmer and powersupply.


---So the biggest remaining issues with this project that I need input on are:

-Light diffusion (and sort of wiring)
-LED installation (how to cut the 15' section into two 4.5' sections wired to the dimmer and powersupply)
-Wall mounting style (I am thinking some sort of long metal "male" bit bolted on and then the "female" bit bolted to wall studs for installation)
-Canvas to light frame mounting (should I simply bolt it on, heavy duty velcro lol - or what????)
-Dimmer placement (I am thinking the adjustment nob should just poke out the backside of the painting so perhaps use bolts/nuts with washers or wood to shim it a bit into the inside chamber..... though maybe I ought to wire it in a way that a ~8ft wire simply exits the chamber and runs to the dimmer and powersupply made into an array or something at the end where it plugs into a wall socket).


ANYWAYS... just rambling out the plan - I think light diffusion is the biggest issue im confused on because I don't want obvious light hotspots because I am not using the LED's to border light the whole thing, I am using them inside the "chamber" to backlight the image like a XRAY projection or whatever

PIX:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMG_1722.jpg
^the painting with the sun backlighting it (the inspiration) however when mounted to a wall it will be horizontal

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMG_1798.jpg
^the electrical gear I have so far you can checkout

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMG_1797.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMG_1796.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMG_1795.jpg



I would REALLY appreciate any input you guys can give me on this little project - even just links to relevant info you think would help me... or just your opinion on whatever :)

thanks for reading and checking this out :thumbup:

fixrite 12-24-2012 10:51 AM

If this were my project I would want to be able to move the lighting on the inside. You may find "HOT" spots in certain areas. And you did say you will be anal or for those that are dyslexic "lana". Anyways, whenever I do under counter lighting I always adjust the lights for best effect by moving it in or out. You could even make silhouettes to change the look of the picture. That would be cool.

Coochgrass 12-25-2012 10:41 PM

I can't offer you any tips but that is a very cool idea, can't wait to see how it turns out

Wandererone 12-26-2012 01:36 AM

Wow!!! You sure like to throw a bit of paint around judging by your studio :eek:
Either that or you have exploding paint cans lol

Looks great but can't help with the lighting. Look forward to seeing what you come up with though.
Cheers

iamn8 12-26-2012 11:56 AM

I work for a sign manufacturer. On our internally illuminated projects, we'll often use a light dispersion film applied to the inside of the panel to eliminate "hot spots". That would help give you more consistent illumination.

Endurance sportscar racing teams are required to illuminate the car # during the night hours of the race. They use a thin Electroluminescent panel that is lightweight, low temp, and with low power requirements. I don't know much about cost or standard sizing, but it could potentially simplify your install if you're not committed to LED.

http://iedei.files.wordpress.com/201...pg?w=580&h=380

RobertoAguiar 12-26-2012 12:25 PM

This looks like an awesome idea, i cant wait to see how it lights up, please be sure to upload a pic once you finish so we can see, im sure im not the only one waiting to see the outcome. I might even make one myself. :thumbup:

fixrite 12-26-2012 02:34 PM

the product in question is called "LIGHT TAPE" it comes in very specific width starting at an eight inch wide and going up to about 4 feet I believe. If you look on youtube you can see some videos on it, there is one where it is being used on a gun firing range and it survives hand gun and shotgun blasts, It is very cool stuff. Hope I have helped. P.S. It is NOT cheap.

Firefighter3244 12-26-2012 03:54 PM

You might want to think about using a piece of diffusing film.
Could stick it to a super thin piece of plexiglass...

It would create a more even light.

You can even order "Milky White" Plexiglass...

This guy used to to make a movie poster, and used it to diffuse the led rope
lighting...

http://images14.fotki.com/v377/photo...00_2189-vi.jpg

http://images14.fotki.com/v378/photo...00_2182-vi.jpg

http://images51.fotki.com/v1562/phot...00_2185-vi.jpg

andrewss 12-27-2012 02:30 PM

thanks for all the input and comments!

soooo last night I ended up ordering a few rolls of this: https://www.inventables.com/technolo...ser-film-rolls

I hope it works well ;)

So I am getting closer to having this thing done.

I'm still scratching my head about how to mount it up on a wall (male/female brackets? some kind of slider? etc? I dunno) and how to get the painting on the light fixture part nicely and with the option of removing it fairly cleanly (I've been thinking about velcro tape stapled on...)

anywho - hopefully I will have the lights wired up and the test fit with the diffuser stuff soon :)

waynestractor 12-28-2012 11:15 AM

I think you would be better off using 5050-3012 and lighting from the edge, as long as the led's are covered so you can't see them. An inline controller would also be easier to install/conceal, better yet an inline remote controller and RGB lights so you can change the color. Sorry about the pic quality, the first one is the inline RGB controller, pretty much the same as the second pic, which is just a single color inline controller, but it has a credit card sized RF remote controller.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps2123e71e.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps05789078.jpg

waynestractor 12-28-2012 11:20 AM

I think you would be better off using 5050-3012 and lighting from the edge, as long as the led's are covered so you can't see them. An inline controller would also be easier to install/conceal, better yet an inline remote controller and RGB lights so you can change the color. Sorry about the pic quality, the first one is the inline RGB controller, pretty much the same as the second pic, which is just a single color inline controller, but it has a credit card sized RF remote controller.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps2123e71e.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps05789078.jpg

andrewss 01-02-2013 10:33 PM

thanks for the input and info, but with this project I am just gonna stick with what I have now - a controller would be cool, next thing I do I will try with that but with this one all I need is dimming adjustments no color changes really.

these are the electronics I have:


http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps2b5d4fb1.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps12255733.jpg

that is the reel.... it indicates that every three diodes you can cut (has a little scissors image)..... so I want to make three sections of 4ft long cuts from that 16ft reel, I need to wire them all together then altogether to the dimmer then to the transformer which plugs into the wall. I want to have the wiring exit the chamber they will be installed in together as one strand if possible, which will need to be about 8ft long and at its end attaches to a little array I will bolt the dimmer and transformer to and hide where I plug the transformers little cord into a wall socket.

I want advice on this, like what gauge of wiring and type I should use and so on... I am a noob to all of this stuff, I have a cheap soldering iron I dunno if I am going to need it - I need advice! so really basic noob to wiring electrical advice would be sooooooooooooo nice :)

anyway any input on how I should tackle this would be greatly appreciated

:wink:


ps. my diffusing material should be here tomorrow :D

kckuhns 01-03-2013 01:38 AM

Andrew,

I can't quite read the product info, but I can see the electrical ratings on the 12VDC driver for the LED strip array. It's 12VDC, 30W so the current rating will be around 2 amps[max] for the wire. The strip is made up of 300 SMD [surface mount device] LEDs with dropping resistors. I am guessing that these are 30ma high luminosity LEDs for this application. Anyways, that is pretty low current/voltage for your wiring needs. I would suggest 18 AWG black/red stranded wire. This is much larger gauge than you really need, but it will be easier to solder. At the strip cut points there are solder tabs for the wire. Make sure that you keep the wire color-to-voltage polarity consistent; typically red for positive and black for negative. It is a good thing that you have a small soldering iron, I would not use anything hotter than a 25Watt iron for this project. You need to tin [heat the wire end with the soldering iron, then touch the solder to the wire so that the wire end is coated with a thin layer of solder] the ends of the wire prior to soldering to the tabs; I am surprised that they don't provide some sort of wiring clip for this purpose. If you are using the dimmer, then you need to connect the LED driver output to the dimmer input, then the dimmer output to the LED strip.

You can cut the LED strip into separate chunks and jumper-connect them as well. Again, using the 18 AWG stranded wire, tin the ends, and pay attention to polarity.

Let me know if you need more specific help with this project.

kevin

waynestractor 01-03-2013 10:34 AM

As Kevin stated, 18/2 is more than adequate for what you are doing. It is too bad you didn't get solderless connectors with your lights, it would make things so much easier, it's almost all I use for my installs. It would be a good idea to watch a few videos on Youtube (Google "solder led strip") to see how it's done, can be a little finicky. Good luck.

Wayne
Infocus LED Lighting
www.infocusled.ca

andrewss 01-03-2013 02:53 PM

awesome guys! thanks for the info kevin and wayne - really appreciate it :D


the last thing I am wondering is when I have all 3 sections wired up I need to connect all 3 to one wire that will lead to the dimmer - how should I setup the connection of all 3 section's wiring all into one wire? those little cone things? heh - and 18awg b/r stranded is ok to use for the whole thing on this?

sorry for being so noobie :eek:


thanks again!

(watching a LED tutorial on youtube helped my confidence level - good recommendation there!)


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