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Old 09-19-2010, 03:50 PM   #76
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Screenhouse in the woods


Oh no! Now we're going to have row's of บบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบ's!:thumbup :

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Old 09-19-2010, 09:12 PM   #77
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Oh no! Now we're going to have row's of บบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบบ's!:thumbup :
I tried it and it worked for me also. I was trying all kind of codes, I have a new toy now.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:04 AM   #78
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Screenhouse in the woods


I just realized I have no real idea how I should construct the door sill or attach the stairs.

I've attached a picture of what I came up with this morning - what do you think?

Is the flashing a good idea, or will that just trap water against the floor (considering water on the floor could wick under the flashing from the back)?

Edit: To clarify the drawing, the threshold will be ripped to 3" wide.

Edit 2: I've added a second image showing the sill with a bevelled nosing - I think this is a better design than the 1st image.
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Screenhouse in the woods-door-sill-detail.jpg   Screenhouse in the woods-door-sill-detail-2.jpg  

Last edited by jules4; 09-20-2010 at 11:27 AM. Reason: To add image
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:13 AM   #79
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Screenhouse in the woods


Of course, you COULD just use 'character map' to get the degree sign ฐ, ฝ sign, ฃ sign, etc.
It should be in Start/programs/accessories/system tools. If not, search C: for charmap.exe

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Old 09-20-2010, 11:16 AM   #80
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Screenhouse in the woods


Hmm - I should probably cap the floor boards with a nosing that bevels down to the outer edge of the skirt board to get rid of that horizontal surface.

Last edited by jules4; 09-20-2010 at 11:28 AM. Reason: Have updated previous post to add bevelled nosing.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:19 AM   #81
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Of course, you COULD just use 'character map' to get the degree sign ฐ, ฝ sign, ฃ sign, etc.
It should be in Start/programs/accessories/system tools. If not, search C: for charmap.exe

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I dunno , that seems so pedestrian compared to typing in secret code
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:33 AM   #82
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Screenhouse in the woods


....aaaaahhh you guys run rings (บบบบบบ) around me with all this magic computer stuff.

OK, on the question at hand, Jules it looks like in your drawing (something else I can't do) is that the bottom of your door butts up against the inside taper of the sill. OK, I know you will remove that anyway.

You could cut yourself a sill from the 2 x 6 like so.

First, have the door come over the top of the sill. Where the outside face of the door reaches - likely about 1 1/2" +- from the inside edge of the sill - mark a line.

From there, add your 15บ (there it is again) taper to the sill which you can have run beyond the outside of any floor member.

If you add the "thing of beauty" drip edge on the bottom side, you should be OK.

But I have to wonder with all the water which may blow inside if it will make that much difference. It will certainly look nice.

I think I might be inclined to use yellow cedar for that as it would last a lot longer than any spruce. I expect you will treat the spruce anyway, but spruce isn't the strongest wood on the planet and might wear somewhat.

Your other option might be to buy some sort of woman made product (forget this man made stuff, it never seems to last) which is resistant to the elements.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:58 AM   #83
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OK, on the question at hand, Jules it looks like in your drawing (something else I can't do)
I'd never done it myself before this summer, but SketchUp has proved an invaluable aid in designing the screenhouse - it's a fabulous tool for discovering problems with a design (and much easier to edit than a scale model).

If you use the tutorials it's actually really easy to learn to use too, and it's available for free!
Quote:
You could cut yourself a sill from the 2 x 6 like so.

First, have the door come over the top of the sill. Where the outside face of the door reaches - likely about 1 1/2" +- from the inside edge of the sill - mark a line.

From there, add your 15บ (there it is again) taper to the sill which you can have run beyond the outside of any floor member.
I hadn't though of exending the threshold beyond the floor - that's a good idea, I could rabbit it so that functioned as the nosing too.

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If you add the "thing of beauty" drip edge on the bottom side, you should be OK.
Unfortunately there isn't room for it with the stair treads.

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I think I might be inclined to use yellow cedar for that as it would last a lot longer than any spruce. I expect you will treat the spruce anyway, but spruce isn't the strongest wood on the planet and might wear somewhat.
Spoken like someone who can't step out the door without tripping over old growth ceder logs.

The only ceder I can get locally is Eastern Ceder, and even that I'd have to special order (and would probably be all sapwood anyway). So crappy black spruce it is! I'll just make sure the threshold isn't to hard to remove for replacement when it gets worn.

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Your other option might be to buy some sort of woman made product (forget this man made stuff, it never seems to last) which is resistant to the elements.
lol
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:19 PM   #84
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Screenhouse in the woods


Okay - employing Cocobolo's suggestions I've put together Sill Variation 3 (in G major). I think this looks pretty good.
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Screenhouse in the woods-door-sill-detail-3.jpg  
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:36 PM   #85
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Are you sure? It sounds like F# to me!

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Old 09-20-2010, 02:43 PM   #86
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Screenhouse in the woods


I am a little thick so please bear with me, what are the 1/4 inch strips for where you nail the stringers to the band?
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:01 PM   #87
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Are you sure? It sounds like F# to me!

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Old 09-20-2010, 03:44 PM   #88
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I dunno you guys, if she says it's G major....

That looks OK Jules.

Are you anywhere near any boatbuilding outfits...not the fiberglass kind, the real wood kind.

Someone there might well have some yellow or red cedar you could get. It's not like you need a huge piece.

And FWIW you can always glue up (epoxy preferred for outside) more than one piece if you can't find something big enough.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:32 PM   #89
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Screenhouse in the woods


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Are you sure? It sounds like F# to me!

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My model may require a little tunning . . .

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I am a little thick so please bear with me, what are the 1/4 inch strips for where you nail the stringers to the band?
The 1/4 inch strips are there because I’m a little thick.

I put them in to make a gap between the skirt board and the top stair tread (to shed water) - until you asked about them it hadn’t occurred to me that I could just offset the tread on the stringers by 1/4" and achieve exactly the same effect.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:53 PM   #90
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Are you anywhere near any boatbuilding outfits...not the fiberglass kind, the real wood kind.

Someone there might well have some yellow or red cedar you could get. It's not like you need a huge piece.

And FWIW you can always glue up (epoxy preferred for outside) more than one piece if you can't find something big enough.
I'm sure there must be people doing stuff with yellow ceder in Halifax (where I live) - but sadly I don't know any of them. The only boat builders I know are on the South Shore and build nothing but Cape Islanders (fibreglass).

I do have access to some old chunks of unfinished red oak that have been sitting in the attic for 70+ years - that would certainly wear a lot harder than spruce. I'm just not sure that it would be worth the effort involved in converting an oak 4x10 into a 1x6. The stuff is ridiculously hard - much, much harder than the red oak you can get at the lumber yard nowadays (not sure why that is - is it just because it's so old and dry? Or would it's being old growth make that much of a difference in hardness?).

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