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870K views 136 replies 14 participants last post by  handyman_squire 
#1 ·
This thread is a follow-up to my first thread on this site, Seeking advice on framing plan, in which I received a lot of help fixing up the plans for the screenhouse I’m building at my parent’s cottage. (Mom’s had to mostly give up walking due to nerve damage, so I’m building this for her so she can spend time out in the woods again like she used to.)

Anyway, I’ve just returned from a two week stint at the cottage - unfortunately there’s no internet access, but I kept track of what I was up to on my laptop so I’ll try to get it all posted in the next day or two.
 
#123 · (Edited)
Jules4, I’ve got to say that from your first post and your SU drawings to now I’ve gone from skeptic to admirer.

I truly appreciate your attention to detail. After all it’s the little details that sets one project off from the rest, and all of this for Mom, good job. :thumbsup:
 
#82 ·
....aaaaahhh you guys run rings (ºººººº) around me with all this magic computer stuff.

OK, on the question at hand, Jules it looks like in your drawing (something else I can't do) is that the bottom of your door butts up against the inside taper of the sill. OK, I know you will remove that anyway.

You could cut yourself a sill from the 2 x 6 like so.

First, have the door come over the top of the sill. Where the outside face of the door reaches - likely about 1 1/2" +- from the inside edge of the sill - mark a line.

From there, add your 15º (there it is again) taper to the sill which you can have run beyond the outside of any floor member.

If you add the "thing of beauty" drip edge on the bottom side, you should be OK.

But I have to wonder with all the water which may blow inside if it will make that much difference. It will certainly look nice.

I think I might be inclined to use yellow cedar for that as it would last a lot longer than any spruce. I expect you will treat the spruce anyway, but spruce isn't the strongest wood on the planet and might wear somewhat.

Your other option might be to buy some sort of woman made product (forget this man made stuff, it never seems to last) which is resistant to the elements. :)
 
#83 ·
OK, on the question at hand, Jules it looks like in your drawing (something else I can't do)
I'd never done it myself before this summer, but SketchUp has proved an invaluable aid in designing the screenhouse - it's a fabulous tool for discovering problems with a design (and much easier to edit than a scale model).

If you use the tutorials it's actually really easy to learn to use too, and it's available for free!
You could cut yourself a sill from the 2 x 6 like so.

First, have the door come over the top of the sill. Where the outside face of the door reaches - likely about 1 1/2" +- from the inside edge of the sill - mark a line.

From there, add your 15º (there it is again) taper to the sill which you can have run beyond the outside of any floor member.
I hadn't though of exending the threshold beyond the floor - that's a good idea, I could rabbit it so that functioned as the nosing too.

If you add the "thing of beauty" drip edge on the bottom side, you should be OK.
Unfortunately there isn't room for it with the stair treads.

I think I might be inclined to use yellow cedar for that as it would last a lot longer than any spruce. I expect you will treat the spruce anyway, but spruce isn't the strongest wood on the planet and might wear somewhat.
Spoken like someone who can't step out the door without tripping over old growth ceder logs. :glare:

The only ceder I can get locally is Eastern Ceder, and even that I'd have to special order (and would probably be all sapwood anyway). So crappy black spruce it is! I'll just make sure the threshold isn't to hard to remove for replacement when it gets worn.

Your other option might be to buy some sort of woman made product (forget this man made stuff, it never seems to last) which is resistant to the elements. :)
lol
 
#121 ·
Jules, I have never had the pleasure of building one of those roofs in the traditional manner.

There is a book out on the subject - probably a few I guess really, but one in particular by a fellow Asby-Brown I think the name is. I could well have that name wrong. He covers all the details of the Japanese version of that construction. I can dig up the name if you like...I think I have it in my library somewhere.

And don't kid yourself, your carving more than measures up, it's beautiful. :thumbup:
 
#122 · (Edited)
THE END

I’ve finally installed the lattice panels I was fighting with last winter, and the screen house is officially complete! :clap:

As public service, I’d also like to give everyone a heads up on the best hammock chairs ever made: Jim’s Hammock Chairs. I bought one for mom for her birthday, and my god it’s fantastic - I want one in every room of my house.

Thanks to everyone who offered their advice and/or support in this thread - you guys are awesome!
 

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#124 ·
You are an amazing young lady, your project for your Mom turned out fantastic, I for one really do appreciate you allowing us to share it with you. By the way, I love the chair also, it does look comfortable.
 
#126 ·
Nice work! Glad we could help. Thank you for the feed-back, a rarity.

Gary
 
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#135 ·
Thanks guys!

I was very happy to see the email notification for this thread pop up - I loved this project! The screenhouse is still going strong and much beloved by mom - she's had drop-shades made for the windows so it's even possible to escape from wind and rain now.

Unfortunately I finally found work in my actual profession a year and half ago and that's put the kibosh on my DIY enterprises - stupid real job :(.



Willie, I'd love to meet you dude! I'll be in Tampa to see grams this August (12th -27th) - PM me your number and I'll give you a call when I get there. :thumbup:
 
#2 · (Edited)
Tuesday (July 20)

Tuesday (July 20)

An outdoor fire place I actually built this spring to accompany the screenhouse. The fireplace is about 4 feet across, and built from two boulders (one for the back and a big flat one for the hearth) and a lot of dry-stacked stones. The rocks are all fitted into position so nothing is loose or wobbly (it was a lot of fun to do, like putting together a large jigsaw puzzle).



Batter-boards that were used to workout the orientation of the screenhouse and to guide the excavation of post holes (there were four strings connecting the horizontal arms, with the intersection of the lines marking the post locations).



Four 14 foot pressure treated 6x6s that were hauled out to the site today.



Unfortunately, I couldn’t get ground contact rated posts around these parts (let alone PWF), so these posts are woefully under-treated for setting in the ground. To overcome this I’ve painted the ends with 3 coats of marine polyurethane (Interlux Brightside), which should buy me an extra decade or two.

The nails you can see sticking out of three posts are there to provide some tooth for the concrete necklaces I’m going to pour around them.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Wednesday (July 28)

Cut the last post this morning (yay!) and installed the front rafter beam. Unfortunately, while installing the beam I discovered that all my previous efforts to ensure nice, square framing were thwarted by a twist in the upper third of the right front post.

I tried shimming out the beam so that it would be square even though the top of the post wasn’t, but this emphasized the twist in the post and made the framing look really ugly. So, I compromised by slightly shimming the beam so that everything looked square even though it wasn’t. (This ultimately backfired when it came to sheathing the roof.)





I didn’t want to have to drag the ladder back and forth between the front and rear platforms, so I made this nifty little ladder out of some scraps. I think it has a lot more character than the aluminum ladder. (However, using live trees for uprights rather limits its portability.)



Around 6pm the site-supervisor (a.k.a. Gryphon) showed up wondering when we were going to break for dinner.



A gratuitous shot of the view I enjoyed all day.

 
#59 ·
Wow, I am totally impressed to say the least. That is a tough job but by yourself and no electricity is just amazing. Way way back when I was much younger I built a free standing carport by myself and it was a trick.

Your mom must be awfully proud of you and just knowing she will treasure her time there is just wonderful. We can't wait to see what you do next. Fantastic job!!!

My stars is all of Canada as beautiful as what we have had the privilege to see in this forum?

Just a quick question and maybe a suggestion. Would your mom use the porch in cool weather when the wind is blowing a little? If so maybe you could make lexan windows that would block the colder wind and could be removed when the weather got warmer. Just a thought.

Thank you for allowing us to share your project.
 
#61 ·
Q

Thanks!

Why, yes, all of Canada is that beautiful - expect for that boring middle area from Quebec to Alberta. :whistling2:

I love the idea of adding lexan windows, but for now that's way out of budget - a possible future upgrade though.
 
#64 · (Edited)
The ascii codes for degree (ALT+ 0176, 0237, or 248) often won't work with xml authors of most forums.
If it is important to you, and you are on a newer operating system composing with MS Word 2007, you can go to the toolbar, select the <INSERT> tab, SYMBOLS / MORE SYMBOLS / SUPERSCRIPTS & SUBSCRIPTS, and you should find the DEGREE Symbol about 6 or 8 rows down on that chart. (should be in the center of the 7th row from the top)

Once you have done that, you should find any symbols you've selected right there in the first dropdown box from now on..... thus eliminating a couple of the steps listed above.


Of course, on this particular forum, we are fortunate..............................

All you have to do here is, while holding down the ALT key, (using only the number pad on the right of your keyboard) type in 0176. Then release the ALT key.

************************

Yes, I know many of you know how to enter ascii codes, but this explanation was for those experiencing it for the first time.
 
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#65 ·
The asci codes for degree (ALT+ 0176, 0237, or 248) often won't work with xml authors of most forums.
If it is important to you, and you are on a newer operating system composing with MS Word 2007, you can go to the toolbar, select <INSERT> tab, SYMBOLS / MORE SYMBOLS / SUPERSCRIPTS & SUBSCRIPTS, and you should find the DEGREE Symbol about 6 or 8 rows down on that chart. (should be in the center of the 7th row from the top)

Once you have done that, you should find any symbols you've selected right there in the first dropdown box from now on..... thus eliminating a couple of the steps listed above.


Of course, on this particular forum, we are fortunate..............................

All you have to do here is, while holding down the ALT key, (using only the number pad on the right of your keyboard) type in 0176. Then release the ALT key.
:eek: My stars, where in the world do you learn all of that stuff? I haven't even scratched the surface with computers yet.
 
#100 ·
Screen door (re)construction

Rather than making a new screen door for the screen house out of new flat-sawn wood,

I decided to rebuild an old (partly rotted) 4-panel screen door since it was made with nice, old-growth rift-sawn spruce, which is much better wood than what I could get now.

The old door was originally fully screened, but I want to put solid panels in the bottom so I needed to cut a groove to hold the panels.
In the process of accomplishing this I've finally mastered the use of the Stanley 45 combination plane (although I wimped out and did a simple rabbit rather than a dado).


On the subject of Stanely's, I've also attached a picture of my pride and joy - a Bailey #4 that I restored this summer (pictured next to it's unrestored brethren, to give you an idea of the state it was in). You can hardly even tell that there's a bad break in the tote.

I used West System Epoxy mixed with walnut wood flour (I didn't have any rosewood flour) to repair the tote, and more-or-less followed this guys technique for cleaning it up: http://www.majorpanic.com/handplane_restor1.htm.

After just a few months of plane-ownership, I honestly have no idea how ever managed to get by without one.
 

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#101 ·
Screen door (re)construction

Rather than making a new screen door for the screen house out of new flat-sawn wood,

I decided to rebuild an old (partly rotted) 4-panel screen door since it was made with nice, old-growth rift-sawn spruce, which is much better wood than what I could get now.

The old door was originally fully screened, but I want to put solid panels in the bottom so I needed to cut a groove to hold the panels.
In the process of accomplishing this I've finally mastered the use of the Stanley 45 combination plane (although I wimped out and did a simple rabbit rather than a dado).


On the subject of Stanely's, I've also attached a picture of my pride and joy - a Bailey #4 that I restored this summer (pictured next to it's unrestored brethren, to give you an idea of the state it was in). You can hardly even tell that there's a bad break in the tote.

I used West System Epoxy mixed with walnut wood flour (I didn't have any rosewood flour) to repair the tote, and more-or-less followed this guys technique for cleaning it up: http://www.majorpanic.com/handplane_restor1.htm.

After just a few months of plane-ownership, I honestly have no idea how ever managed to get by without one.
It's a real crime to let a good plane even get close to a state of disrepair like that...but a hearty "well done" on the cleaned up version. At least it is obviously now in the hands of someone who cares.

Great job. :thumbup:
 
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#106 ·
Jules....that's awesome!

The instructions for installing the screens must be good, because even I can understand them! :thumbsup:

So I suppose this means we don't get to see your bikini clad body in the river now does it? :whistling2:

We finally got a few hours of sun out this way today, but now the wind is up again and the cloud is coming in. I haven't bothered to stick my little toe in the ocean out here, but I don't imagine that it's any too warm! :no:
 
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#110 ·
It's looking great Jules! You're really making a lot of progress.


Anyone could make that mistake. At least you didn't cut them too short the first time. :)
It wasn't a mistake, she was just checking the lengths again, that's all.

Are you done for the winter now Jules?
 
#117 ·
Last but not least, I threw together a small outhouse for times when the cottage seems a little too far away (not finished painting it yet).






This will be a humanure outhouse, meaning no pit (and no smell, honest) – just a bucket and some lovely partly decayed old sawdust (courtesy of the mill across the river). For more info on humanure checkout Humanure Headquarters.

The End. :)





 
#119 ·
Hi Jules:

Well, you've outdone yourself this time. Fantastic job.

I see your mum has the same fondness for the Chinese traditional method of supporting the roof as I do. The Japanese also do the same, and there are a number of older Japanese temples which have survived with these amazing roofs.

Love the name you have picked out and the beautiful carving you did to go with it. Just an excellent job...congratulations!

And as Barb says...

HAPPY CANADA DAY!
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Thursday (July 22)

Three of the posts are raised and braced in position - raising them was easy, but it took the better part of two days to get them plumb and square.



The pier I “poured” yesterday (I mixed it pretty dry so it was more “beaten-into-position” than “poured”). The avant-garde shape is due to the difficulty I had in setting stakes (to support the forms) around the rock rather than any sculptural aspirations on my part.

The pier extends down the side of the rock about three feet below ground (the rock keeps going well beyond this).

 
#4 · (Edited)
Friday (July 23)

Today I got the last post raised, plumb and sort-of square (more on this later). I also installed the side floor girts (outermost joists) to establish the floor line so I could mark the posts to height (each post will need to loose between 2-3 feet).



Getting back to the “sort-of square” fourth post - those with sharp eyes probably noticed from the previous picture that the post on the pier is out of alignment.

Even after shifting the right front post over as far as possible in its hole, and letting the left front post overhang the pier by a good inch, the front wall is still going to be an inch narrower than the back wall.



I place the blame for this screw-up squarely on the shoulders of the site-supervisor, who was asleep on the job, as usual:



Of course, blame aside, there’s still the question of what to do about the out-of square framing.

I must admit my first impulse was to ignore it. But then I thought about what my framing-idols loneframer or framerman would say about someone who left something out an inch in just 8 feet, and realized that I’d have to fix this or I’d never be able to read their posts again without hanging my head in shame.

As soon as the ground dries up enough I’ll dig a larger hole for the right front post so I can get this fixed.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Sat/Sunday (July 24/25)

I was going to cut the posts to size with a chainsaw; however, modern tech being the faithless mistress it is, no amount of cleaning, lubbing or replacing of spark plugs could convince the darn thing to start. So, after wasting Saturday morning working on the chainsaw, I finally gave up and decided to use my great grand-father’s bucksaw instead.

It took me over three hours to “fell” one post-top with the bucksaw while balancing precariously on a ladder. Great-grandpa was probably looking down at me laughing himself silly. After that ordeal I came to my senses and built a small platform to stand on while sawing the other rear post.



Once it finally stopped raining on Sunday I got the other rear post cut in about 40 minutes (it would have taken even less time if the wood wasn’t so wet).
 
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