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Old 01-05-2010, 04:36 PM   #16
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Reflashing Chimney


a kickout is needed wherever a eave terminates into a perpendicular surface,like what is shown in the last 2 pics all that the op needed to do on that small chimney is to extend the flashing in the back to overhang the rake an inch or so

like i said cricket would be nice but really not needed

i&w would have been good too but i think the op handled the metal work well

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Old 01-05-2010, 11:38 PM   #17
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Reflashing Chimney


I can only find kick-out flashing at roof to wall intersections on the net and in books. Diverter flashing on crickets around trapped valleys, I understand. Possibly it's a local usage. I would be very concerned when the water pools at the horizontal valley where it can run side to side because of lack of a cricket to flow it around the corner. The other end should have a diverter, as mentioned. I have always had to build crickets at chimneys and wood chases, since I started framing houses in '75. Boy, I don't miss doing roof systems! lol


I just realized why the head flashing looked strange ----- you put it down too soon---- you needed one more course of comp under it! Then it would dump on the roofing -- not the paper.... Look at the old flashing picture.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:32 AM   #18
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Reflashing Chimney


In this case a cricket would function as a "kick out flashing" to divert water away from the chimney. You could also use a conventional kick out of sorts there - either as an extension of the head flashing or installed a course or two above the chimney, the issue with either in my climate is that it as long as snow is allowed to dam against the chimney perpendicular to the rake melt-off would trickle off the edge and down the junction of the rake and the chimney.

IMO, absent a cricket the best solution would likely be an extension of the chimney head flashing down the chimney and rake forming a continuous interior corner and termineted in a drip edge extendng out from both - but that's some pretty fancy sheet-metal work.

Bottom line is that this arrangement is just a tough transition to detail properly.

As to how much of an actual problem this really is, that is depends a lot on the such factors local climate, the nature of the brick in the chimney and the mortar used to tuck-point it, and similar details. I'm paid to look for potential problems of this sort and I can be on the hook financially if I fail to anticipate them, so I tend to be pretty conservative as to what I consider acceptable, and with that in mind in my opinion in my climate that arrangement could certainly cause problems.
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Old 01-06-2010, 12:09 PM   #19
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Reflashing Chimney


Maybe I'm seeing this wrong but shouldn't your step flashing be on top of the shingle and not underneith it like it looks like you did in this picture?

Reflashing Chimney-step-flashing.jpg

It looks like you put the step flashing down and then shingled over it instead of lay the shingle and then step flashing on the top part of the shingle?
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:11 PM   #20
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Reflashing Chimney


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Very nice metal work! I would have concerns with the black paper and it's application. In the last picture of post 3, you cut the old paper in a stair-step fashion around the existing shingles. In the new paper you cut around the shingles like that again, but installed it over- not under the above paper. You can see the new plywood edge joint near the bottom after you papered and the new paper should go over the lower existing shingles.
The head flashing may direct water collecting there to the house side without a bead of roof tar to stop it's wicking/spilling when full. Look at the old head flashing piece, it's lost it's galvanized coating in the bend and extending towards the house. The head should have been cut before bending, not after, so the groove bend would have been flat or crimped to direct water down side of chimney. With the exist paper application, any water will wet the whole area where there is new paper.

A cricket, as Michael said, would solve this. Kick-out flashing is always on the rake, not the head.

Be safe, Gary
Just when I thought it was done. I guess I'm just going to cross my fingers on this one.
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:20 PM   #21
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Reflashing Chimney


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Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post
Maybe I'm seeing this wrong but shouldn't your step flashing be on top of the shingle and not underneith it like it looks like you did in this picture?

Attachment 16287

It looks like you put the step flashing down and then shingled over it instead of lay the shingle and then step flashing on the top part of the shingle?

I think you are looking at it wrong. The last step is on top of that shingle and bends around the chimney
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:23 PM   #22
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Reflashing Chimney


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
I can only find kick-out flashing at roof to wall intersections on the net and in books. Diverter flashing on crickets around trapped valleys, I understand. Possibly it's a local usage. I would be very concerned when the water pools at the horizontal valley where it can run side to side because of lack of a cricket to flow it around the corner. The other end should have a diverter, as mentioned. I have always had to build crickets at chimneys and wood chases, since I started framing houses in '75. Boy, I don't miss doing roof systems! lol


I just realized why the head flashing looked strange ----- you put it down too soon---- you needed one more course of comp under it! Then it would dump on the roofing -- not the paper.... Look at the old flashing picture.

Be safe, Gary

I fixed it after I took that picture. ther is another run under there
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Old 01-06-2010, 03:09 PM   #23
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Reflashing Chimney


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Originally Posted by knighton View Post
I think you are looking at it wrong. The last step is on top of that shingle and bends around the chimney
In the picture of yours that I reposted, if you are talking about the peice of metal is in that picture that wraps around the corner? It is only on top of that shingle by half an inch or so, which is not sufficiant. The step flashing should be on the topf half of the shingle and then the next layer of shingles covers it. In your picture where the last straight peice of step flashing is, it is under the shingle and it should be on top of it. From your picture I would say your step flashing is only on top of the shingle maybe an inch. Here is a link to flashing http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60348

If you go to that article it will show you that the step flashing needs to cover the shingle half way, not just an inch or so. Maybe you have another picture that shows your step flashing on top of the shingle half way?
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