Reflashing Chimney
 

The week after I bought my home I had a new roof put on, new shingles that is. Anyway about a year and a half later, I noticed some water spots on the ceiling drywall near the chimney. I researched the topic and decided to tackle the job myself. Here's the before and the progress.

A look from inside the attic. The sheathing was extremely water logged.

Today, I began the task. I have read about, watched videos on and still wasn't exactly sure what I was getting myself into. Anyway, here's the photos of what I began.

Once I got the sheathing off, I decided that I needed to strenghten the trusses that had been exposed to water. I also needed some additional backing for the new plywood sheathing.

I had some sheet metal cut a couple of weeks ago in anticipation for this job.

It got dark on me and I wasn't able to finish the counter flashing, but I will tomorrow. And I'll post photos of the completed chimney.

looking good
i like the cleats holding down the front apron:thumbsup:

Ugly Mess
 

That was one ugly mess you just fixed. Good job and your repair seems to be by my eye "Good to go." Keep it up, dorf dude...

That junction of the roof's rake and the uphill side of that style of chimney/roof junction is a difficult location to deal with as water will spill out over the roof edge and tend to back up against the chimney and run back up under the shingles. Also, concentrated water runoff running down the chimney at this location may damage the masonry. It would be nice see WSU along the rake. At a minimum make sure that there is drip edge along that section of rake, and if possible a flashing detail to prevent water backup. In my opinion, and based on my experience, a cricket directing that water over the edge uphill of the chimney and/or toward the inboard side of the chimney is a desirable detail at this location.

cricket not really needed on that small of a chimney,nice maybe

Finished Photos
 

The only thing I have left to do is paint the exposed brick to match the house color (the black part above the counterflashing) The caulk hasn't fully dried yet. It's supposed to dry clear.

Not required by code, but from a performance standpoint it's not the width of the chimney that creates a potential problem here, it's the design, which has the chimney extending past the rake and water running against the rake edge at the junction and then down the chimney.

And yes, that's a nice looking job - many "professionals" don't do as well.

I don't know if I understand you correctly, but I think you're saying that you're not concerned with the "roof" side, but rather the area near the part of the chimney that protrudes from the house? You feel that water will run under that flashing?

If that's the case, and a cricket were placed there, I would think water could still run under the edge of the it unless it were protruding over the roof more?

There was no indication that water had done this before with its present design and it's been there since 1964. What I might do though, is seal the top of the facia where it abuts the bottom of the shingles to prevent water from entering. Maybe also seal the top of the shingle where it joins the flashing. I think I'll test it, then decide.

Thanks for your compliment and suggestions.

Yes, my concern is with the "outside junction".


http://paragoninspects.com/images/wa...imney-a-fw.jpg

Fig. 1 What can happen when runoff is directed down the exterior of a masonry chimney.

http://paragoninspects.com/images/wa...imney-b-fw.jpg

Fig. 2 Close-up of same chimney, there was extensive water damage at the interior below this junction. This example is at an eave, but runoff at a rake can cause the same problem.

I have seen many instances of such problems at home and moisture intrusion inspections here in Chicago.

that requires a kick out,that has nothing to do with a cricket

Very nice metal work! I would have concerns with the black paper and it's application. In the last picture of post 3, you cut the old paper in a stair-step fashion around the existing shingles. In the new paper you cut around the shingles like that again, but installed it over- not under the above paper. You can see the new plywood edge joint near the bottom after you papered and the new paper should go over the lower existing shingles.
The head flashing may direct water collecting there to the house side without a bead of roof tar to stop it's wicking/spilling when full. Look at the old head flashing piece, it's lost it's galvanized coating in the bend and extending towards the house. The head should have been cut before bending, not after, so the groove bend would have been flat or crimped to direct water down side of chimney. With the exist paper application, any water will wet the whole area where there is new paper.

A cricket, as Michael said, would solve this. Kick-out flashing is always on the rake, not the head.

Be safe, Gary