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Old 08-17-2014, 07:13 AM   #1
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Partial Earth Sheltered Home


I am in process of building a new house partially below grade. The best way to describe is a daylight basement with a roof. I want to post some photos but not sure if I can post from my Ipad. I will have a lot of questions as this project goes forward as I am doing a lot of the work myself.

Thanks
JM
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:19 AM   #2
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Partial Earth Sheltered Home


I can post photos but only one at a time. Here is the slab as it's being poured. I used a 15 mil commercial grade vapor barrier. This slab will be the entire house and I couldn't take any chances on water problems. The slab is three block off ground and I placed a French drain on the inside of slab that will also serve as a
Radon removal system and part time drain.

JM
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:23 AM   #3
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Partial Earth Sheltered Home


Block work is all done. Will be covered with brick except front wall will be vinyl
Siding. I have some more electrical questions and will ask them on electrical forum.
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:26 AM   #4
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Partial Earth Sheltered Home


Front side facing lake. Plan to build shed type porch roof with stone facing on the chimney
Block posts.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:58 AM   #5
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Partial Earth Sheltered Home


Good morning JM!

Well, this will be an interesting build to watch.

I hope to be getting started on a somewhat similar build myself next month, but a few thousand miles away from you!

The slope on your lot looks very similar to mine...so can I ask you what the depth of your side walls are, front to back, and how much slope is in that distance?

The ground at my lot is far too rough to see what my actual slope is yet, but it looks close to yours.

Will you be adding drain rock up the side of your wall which will be buried?

I will be doing that on mine, but we have to cover the top 6" of fill with native soil. Plus adding landscape fabric on top of the drain rock in an attempt to keep the fines from clogging the drain rock over the years.
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:43 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by cocobolo View Post
Good morning JM!

Well, this will be an interesting build to watch.

I hope to be getting started on a somewhat similar build myself next month, but a few thousand miles away from you!

The slope on your lot looks very similar to mine...so can I ask you what the depth of your side walls are, front to back, and how much slope is in that distance?

The ground at my lot is far too rough to see what my actual slope is yet, but it looks close to yours.

Will you be adding drain rock up the side of your wall which will be buried?


I will be doing that on mine, but we have to cover the top 6" of fill with native soil. Plus adding landscape fabric on top of the drain rock in an attempt to keep the fines from clogging the drain rock over the years.
I just saw your reply. My lot slopes about two feet per 12. The back wall is underground about five feet on deepest end. The lot slopes front to back and also side to side. I will put a drain around house and fill with 1 1/2 inch gravel to grade with not dirt near house. For water proofing I am using two independent stand alone systems. First I cleaned footer block interface and did a big filet of Portland cement/ lime/sand on the first block. Then put on two coats of drylock and two coats of non- fibered foundation coating. I then covered all below grade with platon 24 mil plastic made as a stand a lone water proofing system. I also have a drain on the inside of footer and a 15 mil commercial grade vapor barrier under slab. The slab is three block or 24 inches above grade at lowest point. If I end up with any water problems it will not because I was taking shortcuts.
I will keep posting photos and looking forward to seeing your project. I just filled the block with forty pieces of rebar and 16 yds of concrete. It will be a bunker. I am going to have 10 foot (fifteen block high) ceilings to get the house up higher above grade.

Thanks
JM

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Old 08-26-2014, 01:03 PM   #7
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Partial Earth Sheltered Home


Just finished with the water proofing and ready for backfill. I may put some 1/2 inch blue board on top of the Platon but haven't decided yet. From the bare block I have two coats of drylock and two coats of tar then the 24 mil Platon plastic. The Platon is a sure fire method that doesn't depend on those expensive magic potions that may or may not work. Including a photo of my hobby in case someone has a similar interest.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:04 PM   #8
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First photo didn't post. Will try again.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:06 PM   #9
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Can only post one photo at a time.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:42 AM   #10
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I got the house back filled with 1 1/2 gravel and the windows in last week. I bought vinyl windows from a local window and door company that has a good reputation and I installed them myself. They are ViWinTech made by a company in Kentucky. The front will have four more windows and a door in center. Brick will be next, then frame front wall and install roof trusses.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:52 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ddsrph View Post
I just saw your reply. My lot slopes about two feet per 12. The back wall is underground about five feet on deepest end. The lot slopes front to back and also side to side. I will put a drain around house and fill with 1 1/2 inch gravel to grade with not dirt near house. For water proofing I am using two independent stand alone systems. First I cleaned footer block interface and did a big filet of Portland cement/ lime/sand on the first block. Then put on two coats of drylock and two coats of non- fibered foundation coating. I then covered all below grade with platon 24 mil plastic made as a stand a lone water proofing system. I also have a drain on the inside of footer and a 15 mil commercial grade vapor barrier under slab. The slab is three block or 24 inches above grade at lowest point. If I end up with any water problems it will not because I was taking shortcuts.
I will keep posting photos and looking forward to seeing your project. I just filled the block with forty pieces of rebar and 16 yds of concrete. It will be a bunker. I am going to have 10 foot (fifteen block high) ceilings to get the house up higher above grade.

Thanks
JM
Good grief Charlie Brown! You sure don't want any water ingress problems, do you?

It looks like both our lots have just about the identical slope and in both directions. I am anticipating that the back wall of my cabin will have about 5 feet of fill behind it, and will be a daylight walkout at the front, or south side, which overlooks the lake.

My basement will only need to be 8 feet high, as my lot slopes enough that the top floor should have a decent view without needing any further elevation.

Thanks for posting your pics...most interesting.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:53 AM   #12
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Just finished with the water proofing and ready for backfill. I may put some 1/2 inch blue board on top of the Platon but haven't decided yet. From the bare block I have two coats of drylock and two coats of tar then the 24 mil Platon plastic. The Platon is a sure fire method that doesn't depend on those expensive magic potions that may or may not work. Including a photo of my hobby in case someone has a similar interest.
Does this happen to be a kit built 'plane?
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:26 AM   #13
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Does this happen to be a kit built 'plane?
Yes it's a Vans RV3. It was built in Fairbanks Alaska and later trailered to St George, Utah when the original builder retired. He sold it to me less engine after he had flown it 200 hours. I trailered it home with wings off in 2012 and put the engine out of my Piper Colt in it and sold the Colt airframe. I love it as it flys better than anything I have ever flown. With only a 108 horse power engine it cruises at 160mph and gets 25 miles to the gallon. I have flown it almost 200 hours so far and plan to keep it until someone convinces me I am too old to fly. I am building a experimental super cub myself but the house project has it on the back burner for now.

Thanks
JM
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:15 AM   #14
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Coco bolo
Being from a cold climate this may be of interest. The best insulation made is poly iso but is very expensive. It is the stuff used in freezers and those insulated metal hollow core doors. It is also used on commercial roofs and when hrs roofs of large commercial buildings are replaced the take off insulation can be purchased for pennies on the dollar of the new stuff. During the past year I have been stockpiling all I could find via Craigslist. The best find was 200 sheets of 2 1/2 inch (R15) for four dollars a sheet. This stuff is probably 40 to 50 per sheet retail. I also found some 11/2 inch R10. With this poly iso and some blue board to make up for some required thickness I plan to have walls of R 30 and ceiling
R60. The total cost will also be much lower than buying any type of new insulation. The photo is about one half of my total amount.

Thanks

JM
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:30 AM   #15
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Coco bolo
Being from a cold climate this may be of interest. The best insulation made is poly iso but is very expensive. It is the stuff used in freezers and those insulated metal hollow core doors. It is also used on commercial roofs and when hrs roofs of large commercial buildings are replaced the take off insulation can be purchased for pennies on the dollar of the new stuff. During the past year I have been stockpiling all I could find via Craigslist. The best find was 200 sheets of 2 1/2 inch (R15) for four dollars a sheet. This stuff is probably 40 to 50 per sheet retail. I also found some 11/2 inch R10. With this poly iso and some blue board to make up for some required thickness I plan to have walls of R 30 and ceiling
R60. The total cost will also be much lower than buying any type of new insulation. The photo is about one half of my total amount.

Thanks

JM
Now there's a great idea if ever I heard one!

There's a small cabin at the end of our spit owned by Harry and Sally. He used to be the manager at one of the big food chain stores on Vancouver Island. I guess he must have been in charge when they replaced all their in-store freezers, because he has a pile of this stuff at his cabin. Never used a sheet of it...it's all still sitting outside.

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