Drywall delivered! I priced HD, Lowes, other independent home improvement places.
I ended up going with a place in Youngstown, 2 hours away that would deliver INSIDE the house for less money than all other places. I mean they killed the price. All Certainteed made in USA date codes within a couple months.
Used
4X8
4X10
4X12
4X14
54"X12
Couple mistakes along the way. I put a tapered edge at the end of a corner. One bedroom has two butt joints. Other than that the only butt joints are on the ceiling in the living room and along one wall.
Made sure boards spanned windows and doors.
Having drywall longer than 8' made the job much easier.
Approximately 125 boards hung.
Drywall lift helped tremendously. I also had a couple friends help on occasion.
I hired someone to finish the drywall. Mud and taping is something that I suck at.
I called all my friends "drywall guys". They either would not call me back or on house arrest or something crazy. I eventually found someone that is doing a fine job.
So on with paint. I pulled together my budgetary spreadsheet calculating coverage. Primer, ceiling, bath, walls, doors.
I then made a trip to: pgh paints store, sw, hd, lowes.
Hd was a total waste but I already knew in my mind it would be.
Lowes was helpful but not really. They had one paint for everything. Ceilings, walls, doors, trim, etc
Sw. I felt like I was being scammed. Former used car salesman selling me paint. $68 dollars a gallon? Not realistic. But they did have specific paint for specific applications.
Pgh paints. Very helpful. Not pushy like sw. Their pricing is cheaper than sw but more than hd and lowes, but that is okay.
We will use Pittsburgh Paints. Manor house or something like that? Proper prime, ceiling, bath etc etc.
They also told me they will offer a discount due to the size of the job. Yay.
I wonder if the smokes with batt. back will chirp to notify me of a power outage/sag/brown out. I have not researched the smokes yet. Maybe ups that branch? Or simply move them to, like you said a light branch.
I wonder if the smokes with batt. back will chirp to notify me of a power outage/sag/brown out. I have not researched the smokes yet. Maybe ups that branch?
Get combined smoke and CO units and they will have blinking lights to show status. BRK is what is most used in residences, wired, with battery backup. Good for 5 years, then replace. Add heat of rise in garage, near furnace and in attic, not std smoke/CO; to cut false triggering. CO at top of cellar stairs.
Wire in Cat5e and cable rough in to anywhere you might use it now or later, wireless is varied success based on distance, obstructions, etc.
The cement board in the bath is NOT waterproof. You need to add a sealer or Ditra orange waterproof membrane over the cement-board BEFORE setting any tile, and possibly a bonding agent too. Check with a tile store who know what they are talking about..
Get or rent a spray paint machine, and spray from 5 gallon pails for primer, ceilings, etc. Use mold resistant paperless sheetrock in baths, wet areas.
Try a textured ceiling application, best applied by a 'rocker' who does finish ceiling work, it will cut way down on imperfections of the rock install.
It's coming along!:thumbsup:
What's going to run your sump when the power is out?
I stopped with the bath, waiting for the drywall to finish. I got special tape and the thin set mud for cement board. Then I'll red gaurd it. I'll then start with tiling and I got questions for that project, save them for another day. I did make sure the cbu extended below the lip of the tub. I decided against green board or blue board. Can't remember why but when I was researching the general concensus plain is fine.
My power quality is good here, I'll drop a back up dc motor into the unit when we finish the basement.
No problem. I'd get a Panasonic bath fan. H/L/V (heat,light, vent) models are the best; and if you can go through the wall instead of the roof with insulated flexible metal or rigid metal ducting if you have space to fit it. There are also auto shut type exterior closures with a drop down cap inside the vent to prevent air leakage WAY better than alum flapper type. The link below also has further down the page other units that can go through eaves or roof if necessary. http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/p...{keyword}&9gad={creative}.1&9gpla={placement}
You won't regret the heat feature and wife and kids will love it too.:yes: Put the fan and light on one timed switch and heat on another with timer, (rated to amp load).
Or put timed floor heat pad in under tile near bath/shower.:thumbsup:
I installed a quiet fan vented through the roof. The flapper is built into the roof part. We're installing floor heat. Never had that before! Excited for that feature.
Technicolor dream house!
Need a stairwell railing pronto to keep your kids safe.:thumbsup:
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