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Old 12-26-2011, 08:05 PM   #106
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Somebody please shoot me!

I have no idea what my husband has been drinking but I think it pickled his brain.

He told me that there is no reason to mud and tape the drywall because we are going to have it textured. No idea where he thought up that idea.

Then tonight we got into an arguement.
He wants to hang the fiberglass insulation, then hang the drywall and says he will cut a hole big enough around the light fixtures so we can fit the tube for the Great Stuff up there to seal that off.
Told him that was not a good idea.
Hang drywall first, seal with Great Stuff and then insulation.

Got pretty heated and he stomped off.

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Old 12-26-2011, 08:48 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logluvr View Post
Somebody please shoot me!

I have no idea what my husband has been drinking but I think it pickled his brain.

He told me that there is no reason to mud and tape the drywall because we are going to have it textured. No idea where he thought up that idea.

Then tonight we got into an arguement.
He wants to hang the fiberglass insulation, then hang the drywall and says he will cut a hole big enough around the light fixtures so we can fit the tube for the Great Stuff up there to seal that off.
Told him that was not a good idea.
Hang drywall first, seal with Great Stuff and then insulation.

Got pretty heated and he stomped off.
And you are in this venture "together"? Scary.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #108
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Will there be a vapor barrier fitting in there somewhere?
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:11 PM   #109
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No willie I don't think we are "together" in this.

cocobolo so far nothing yet. I was thinking of plastic between the drywall and the trusses.

Well he got the electrical finished tonight.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:16 PM   #110
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Your vapor barrier should be 6 mil poly on the warm side of all of your insulated areas, walls and ceilings.

Any T & G plywood you have is considered to qualify as a vapor barrier as well.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:49 PM   #111
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Would the blue insulation board we used in the basement be considered a vapor barrier or should we go ahead and hang the poly?
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:12 AM   #112
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Would the blue insulation board we used in the basement be considered a vapor barrier or should we go ahead and hang the poly?
Now that's a very good question.

If it is closed cell foam, and if you are able to seal between all the joints, then perhaps so. If it is open cell foam, then I would have my doubts.

I would take the word of the manufacturer over mine in this case and see what they say. If it were me, I would be putting the poly up in any event. It is easy, inexpensive and well proven.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:40 AM   #113
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It is closed cell and is lined on both sides with a plastic film. We put it up in the basement before the fir out was done. Taped all the edges too.

Yes we were talking about hanging the poly before dry walling the upstairs ceiling. That ceiling is what caused the argument.

Trying to decide what to do with the basement ceiling. we need to access the space above because of the electrical junction boxes up there.
I do not want a suspended or dropped ceiling with the metal griders. I remember a neighbor kid hiding the whiskey and cans of chew up in there and decided I did not want to offer my kids the same thing.

found some 12" tiles by Armstrong on the internet. It showed that you hang these wooden slats across the ceiling trusses. Then you mark out the tiles and they can be stapled up there.
Any thoughts or ideas on a ceiling that can be removed for access?

Hubby wanted to take some gypsum board and cut it into 2'x2' and then use wooden slats to hold them to the ceiling. They wouldn't be screwed down.
I suggested drywalling the whole ceiling and cut out access panels where the boxes were and make it look like it was planned.
No agreement there yet.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:03 PM   #114
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If you want that ceiling accessible, why not use T-bar?
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:13 PM   #115
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I looked at it and it is still suspended. Our ceiling in the basement is 8'. I really don't want to lose and head space.
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:51 PM   #116
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Priced out some insulation yesterday. To do our attic in R-38 batted fiberglass would cost us around $4000.
To do the basement walls alone would be around $500.

Still waiting for the inspector. Once he gives us the ok I'm going to get the insulation for the basement and the hubby is going to start the plumbing.

Let's see if this works. The pot lights in the kitchen.

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Old 12-31-2011, 08:21 PM   #117
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If you can get Roxul Insulation instead of fiberglass you will be far happier.
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Old 12-31-2011, 09:47 PM   #118
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If you can get Roxul Insulation instead of fiberglass you will be far happier.
Why? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:06 AM   #119
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Here is the link Ironlight.
http://www.roxul.com/home

Going to check out the cost of it because it needs to be special ordered at HD. Closest dealer is about 4 hours or more away from us.

I was in a different lumber yard yesterday just looking around and they had several mantle pieces around. I fell in love with this maple mantle that was actually the whole tree cut flat on each side. Talked with hubby and I would love to have that as the top piece on the breakfast bar in the kitchen.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:51 AM   #120
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Why? Inquiring minds want to know.
As soon as you either see or handle Roxul you will know.

It has a higher R-value for the same thickness, about 10% higher.

It doesn't itch. It fills up your spaces properly. You can cut it with a bread knife to fit exactly around things like electrical boxes.

It is fireproof. Have you ever seen fiberglass after a fire?

There's simply nothing about f/g that is even remotely as good as Roxul.

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