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Old 03-29-2008, 10:15 AM   #31
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my shower project, denshield backerboard, tiled walls


one thing i learned while renovating an old house .. if someone offers to help, TAKE THEM UP ON ON!!!

i did not redgaurd the whole thing because i was using denshield backerboard which has a 100% waterproof vynle face. according to the manufacturer, the seams do NOT have to be waterproofed either unless you are building a steam shower.

so in my shower, adding any redgaurd is complete overkill. but what the hell, it wasn't that expensive and will last a lifetime now. i redgaurded just the seams, and drill holes. but i had so much left over redgaurd i probably could have done the entire thing 3 times and still have enough for another shower in the house.

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Last edited by Knucklez; 07-28-2008 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:58 PM   #32
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my shower project, denshield backerboard, tiled walls


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Originally Posted by Knucklez View Post
now i need somewhere to store my soap.

got this 9' tall caddy from Linens & Things. was a bit expensive, but that's what gift certificates are for

so, this is it. final shower done. i really tried to make this a nice shower built to last 50 years... guess time will tell

final cost (from memory so might be wrong..):
wood for framing: $20
4" screws to reach wall studs: $5
bag of mortar to stabalize the base: $10
shower glass & base: $750
silicon: $4
kholer shower hardware: $250
shower caddy: $50
denshield board: $75
redgaurd water proofing: $70
tiles: $500
tile mortar: 2 * $30 = 60$
grout: $20
tools: $15

Total: $1850

skills learned during project = priceless

i have lots of left over water proofing so will come in handy with my next shower project

its a bit overkill.. but i always built (or try to build) to last 50 years.. when you do this stuff once you realize you never want to do it again! hahaha...

so... what do you think?



Is this the final product? Maybe you should finish up first and then post another picture. Anyway good job so far especially on the plumbing! I personally would have chosen cheaper tile and a glass shower for such a small job though.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:21 PM   #33
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its not quite done, but is 95%. i still have to add trim around the edges and quater-round along the bottom. also need to paint the wall above it, but i guess technically that's a separate project.

here's a little tip about the plumbing.. the shower head.. it has a slight downward slope to it.. probably due to gravity and lack of support.

so when the shower is turned off, there is still water in the pipe, it does not drain back to the valve or anything.

but gravity will push it to the shower head... but the shower nipples are very small and so the water does not come out immediately (it takes the pressure from the supply to force it out in a spray). but overtime, the water works its way through.. and once it breaks the seal, whoosh.. a bit of water comes out.. and then its all over. that is like, 1 hour after you turn the water off. does not happen every time.

so there is something that i learned about shower heads that i did not see posted anywhere else. hopefully it is helpful info for someone else.

Knucklez
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Old 08-25-2008, 10:32 PM   #34
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its not quite done, but is 95%.
That last 5% is the hardest part of the project if you ask me. Hard to find the motivation sometimes!

Good work, looks good.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:47 PM   #35
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thx.

yes, still sitting at 95% as i am now residing my house and also in middle of kitchen reno. so .. might be a few more months yet before i can get back to it

in the mean time... i thought of a solution to the rain shower dripping water issue. if you install the water spout for feet washing (like the same spout as used in common bathtub) then when you're done taking a shower you can turn on the feet washer to relieve the pressure in the line

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Old 06-05-2009, 11:34 AM   #36
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looks like you did an awesome job. Those are the same tiles that I used in my bathroom with a polyblend sanded grout, linen in colour. Much better job then what my carpenters did, so doing it yourself definately pays off sometimes......

Last edited by mookie_monster; 06-05-2009 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:57 AM   #37
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Hey Knucklez

How did you find out the drain was in wrong? I picked up the same base and same drain instructions and still says rubber gasket on top of base?
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Old 06-23-2009, 01:19 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knucklez View Post
its not quite done, but is 95%. i still have to add trim around the edges and quater-round along the bottom. also need to paint the wall above it, but i guess technically that's a separate project.

here's a little tip about the plumbing.. the shower head.. it has a slight downward slope to it.. probably due to gravity and lack of support.

so when the shower is turned off, there is still water in the pipe, it does not drain back to the valve or anything.

but gravity will push it to the shower head... but the shower nipples are very small and so the water does not come out immediately (it takes the pressure from the supply to force it out in a spray). but overtime, the water works its way through.. and once it breaks the seal, whoosh.. a bit of water comes out.. and then its all over. that is like, 1 hour after you turn the water off. does not happen every time.

so there is something that i learned about shower heads that i did not see posted anywhere else. hopefully it is helpful info for someone else.

Knucklez
there is probably a crome shutoff valve of some sort you could add by the head to stop that. maybe a diverter valve for a hand massager with the end capped off or something, looks good though.
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:25 PM   #39
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Very nice job. I just remodeled my bathroom. Used denseshield around the tub but had some anxiety about water wicking and screw holes. I ended up replacing the denseshield with Hardiboard prior to tiling. Found the denseshield easier to cut and lighter in weight. However it's water proof quality hinges on a paper thin layer of vinyl or possibly fiberglass which I found disturbing. Removing a 1/2 inch strip of Hardibacker board is not easy but despite manufacturer cautions, the best way is to use a table saw with a carbide blade. This should be done outdoors and with a OSHA approved respirator, not a paper dust mask. With Redguard you should be fine.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:32 PM   #40
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jeeper; simple, i consulted a pro.

Knucklez
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:13 PM   #41
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my shower project, denshield backerboard, tiled walls


Quote:
Originally Posted by Knucklez View Post
now i need somewhere to store my soap.

got this 9' tall caddy from Linens & Things. was a bit expensive, but that's what gift certificates are for

so, this is it. final shower done. i really tried to make this a nice shower built to last 50 years... guess time will tell

final cost (from memory so might be wrong..):
wood for framing: $20
4" screws to reach wall studs: $5
bag of mortar to stabalize the base: $10
shower glass & base: $750
silicon: $4
kholer shower hardware: $250
shower caddy: $50
denshield board: $75
redgaurd water proofing: $70
tiles: $500
tile mortar: 2 * $30 = 60$
grout: $20
tools: $15

Total: $1850

skills learned during project = priceless

i have lots of left over water proofing so will come in handy with my next shower project

its a bit overkill.. but i always built (or try to build) to last 50 years.. when you do this stuff once you realize you never want to do it again! hahaha...

so... what do you think?


Did you but up the tile to the lip of the shower base or did your overlap the lip on top of the tiles? Thanks
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:16 PM   #42
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my shower project, denshield backerboard, tiled walls


the instructions for the shower showed a picture of how this was supposed to be done. it showed a tile hanging over the lip but 1/2" off the base bottom. so if water were running down the tile, it would eventually find its way to the base/drain.

i had just small 2x2 tiles so this was more difficult than expected. just did the best i could.

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Old 09-14-2009, 07:26 PM   #43
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my shower project, denshield backerboard, tiled walls


Quote:
Very nice job. I just remodeled my bathroom. Used denseshield around the tub but had some anxiety about water wicking and screw holes. I ended up replacing the denseshield with Hardiboard prior to tiling. Found the denseshield easier to cut and lighter in weight. However it's water proof quality hinges on a paper thin layer of vinyl or possibly fiberglass which I found disturbing. Removing a 1/2 inch strip of Hardibacker board is not easy but despite manufacturer cautions, the best way is to use a table saw with a carbide blade. This should be done outdoors and with a OSHA approved respirator, not a paper dust mask. With Redguard you should be fine.
Denshield IS FULLY WATERPROOF because of the cladding. Any fastener penetrations must be addressed (waterproofed) by applying a little caulk or waterproofing to the head of the fasteners. The corners and seams must also be waterproofed.

Hardibacker IS NOT waterproof. It will wick water. Hardibacker just won't deteriorate over time from the moisture but it will allow moisture into the wall cavity whereas Denshield will not.
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Last edited by Bud Cline; 09-14-2009 at 10:18 PM. Reason: can't spell
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:32 PM   #44
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Looks awesome, giving me some ideas...
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:29 PM   #45
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Bud Cline - yep. i got similar info from the manufacturer's website back when i was deciding between the two materials. denshield is perfectly warrentied for a steam shower too, which just goes to show the manufacturer believes in their product (when used as directed).


with hardibacker or cement board, you have to waterproof the surface or at least heavy vapour barrier the studs because cement is extremely pourous. it is not harmed by the water that is true, but you still must deal with it.

Knucklez

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