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Old 07-08-2008, 07:29 PM   #46
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


here is what i read in at ESA

"The adjacency requirement as stated in Rules 26-722(b) and 26-726(3) has been deemed to offer no added safety value to an installation. The Canadian Electrical Code has deleted the adjacency requirement in the next edition."

here is the proposed plan..



Last edited by Knucklez; 07-05-2009 at 12:29 PM. Reason: version 3.0 posted to reflect actual build. Drawn using MS Power Point
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Old 09-19-2008, 10:12 AM   #47
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


Knucklez, how's your kitchen coming along? I have a very similar project going on at the moment... so, I'm on the edge of my seat.
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Old 09-19-2008, 11:21 PM   #48
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How's the project coming? Catch us up!
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Old 09-23-2008, 09:09 PM   #49
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


hey thanks for the interest.

sorry,i have been busy re-siding my entire house. i know, i know .. the old DIY addage "never start two projects at the same time" but ... it just fell in my lap to do it this year and right now. so i did. took 6 weeks of INTENSE and DEDICATED labour and many friends & family. you know, the good kind, the great kind, the type that show up without being asked and some were even on vacation!

wow.. my wife and i were humbled by the quality of friends & family. i hope we get the opportunity to repay the favour.

this weekend i am finishing up the siding, just cleanup and some foundation touch ups.. then back to kitchen reno in FULL FORCE. well.. around working full time and attending masters of engineering classes.. and ... well.. i'll see what i can do to accodate.

my board & batton project --> CLICK ME
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:15 PM   #50
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


ok, that outside job took a long time. but now i'm back in the kitchen for a few days.

i lifted the old vynel floor in the pantry just beside the kitchen and its floor is pine plank. too bad it doesn't match the rest of the kitchen. it is also recessed 1/4" .. as if it were meant for tiles...

so here is the order of events:
1) kitchen wiring (i bought all the stuff i needed earlier today)
2) insulation and vapour barrier
3) drywall tape , sanding and repeat
4) refinish floors
5) install cabinets
6) reinforce cabinets
7 ) start the concrete counter tops...

my wife decided she wants to put the fridge where we have cabinets right now.. so i must do some carpentry prep work.. don't hold your breath, but we'll get to the concrete counter tops this year promise!

Knucklez

Last edited by Knucklez; 01-10-2009 at 09:17 AM. Reason: i lied - concerete counter tops didn't get done in 2008 - but hopefully early 09 :)
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:11 PM   #51
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


tra la la... sucks living without a kitchen for so many months. school work, exams and working full time and now long commutes in the winter are killing. no time to work on this.

will it be done for christmas? let's hope so - my marriage depends on it (just kidding .. i hope?)
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:13 AM   #52
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I can tell that you're doing a great job being a DIY expert.
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:21 PM   #53
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oh.. i wouldn't say "expert". you should see how long it takes me to cut a piece of drywall to fit around a socket. ha.

so, wife decided to move fridge to new location. now i must cut cabinets and remove them to allow for fridge.

now she wants an island too, but i like this idea so i don't complain (much).

the wiring took 2 guys 2 days. yikes!
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:26 PM   #54
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here is a picture of the vapour barrier. the old stuff was like suranrap it was so thin. the new stuff is much thicker.

ps. the dangling wires are from the under cabinet lighting (controlled from wall switch!) and will be tucked up and secured at a later date.

notice the cabinets cut to allow room for fridge (left side of pic below)



prepping the wall for denshield backer board. the denshield has a vynl side to it which is waterproof, high mold resistance and ribbed surface for easy tile grip & easy to work with. great product for kitchen backsplash!


Last edited by Knucklez; 12-31-2008 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:35 PM   #55
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


Hi Knucklez:
Just joining you from the west coast. Great project.
I note from an early post that you estimate the counters to be 400 lbs. That would only be a little under 3 cubic feet of concrete, right?
It sounds as though you may have got the idea from Fu Tung Cheng. He is certainly the guy who has popularized the concrete countertops.
Are you still on with the concrete?
Unless you are going to have a very thin countertop, I would think the weight may be considerably higher, no?
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:05 PM   #56
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i am absolutely still doing this project. i am just very slow. i am currently tape/mud of the walls right now. i struggle with getting the paper tape to NOT have bubbles and to go on flat. ugg.. sand/patch/sand/patch.. i suck at this.

anyway, according to fu-tung's website i will use about 3ft^2 of concrete. he recommends 6 bags of 60lbs mix. add some rebar and you're looking at about 400lbs.

my floor is very sturdy. it rests on 18" thick stone foundation and the joists are all 2x10 or 2x12 (they vary). the floor is hardwood tounge&grove. i have no doubt that it can support this weight and a heck of a lot more so i'm not at all worried. my cabinets on the other hand are chipboard 1970's. they will get spruced up with paint and trim and new hardware to make them modern_ish. but they will not hold the wieght of the counter. so i will be reinforcing my cabinets. i will show lots of pictures of how i did this in good time.

.. don't hold your breath

thx for your comments and keep checking back for updates.

Knucklez
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:45 PM   #57
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


Thanks for the update. It sounds as though you are not putting enough mud on the walls before you put the tape on. If you are using the self adhesive tape, then of course you just stick that on the walls first, then apply the mud. When you are using the paper tape, which it sounds like, spread the mud on the joints, then add the paper tape. Run your trowel over the tape just once and leave it alone. All you are trying to do at this point is to get the air out from behind the tape.
Absolutely no doubt that your floor will handle the load whatsoever. That wasn't my question. How many square feet will the concrete countertop be?
And how thick are you planning to pour? It sounds as though it will just be the island.
I have two of FTCheng's books, and he goes into quite a lot more detail there.
If you don't have the concrete countertop book you might find it to be a good investment. Or perhaps see if your local library has one. Doesn't cost anything that way.
Happy New Year!!!
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:37 PM   #58
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the countertop is 2.5' wide, by roughly 8' long and 2" thick. for the area under the cabinets, around the sink and above the dishwasher. originally it was going to be much more, but now the fridge is taking up a good portion of the counter space.

the island is a future project. it might also be concrete but we'll see how the countertops turn out first.

i have his book from the library, and i bought his DVD which is really good (better than book IMO). really, it seems straight forward process, simple but labour intensive.

i am putting paper tape on and i followed your technique.. still i have problems. hey, this is clearly something i am NOT good at! but atleast all the tape/mud is now done!

my wife's job is to white wash the walls to get ready for painting. that's a big job really. wash & paint. while she is doing that i am preparing the floors for sanding & refinish.

then cabinet install + support for heavy countertop.

all the best in 2009 to you and your family.

my new years resolution, finish this dang kitchen ! lol

Knucklez
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Old 01-05-2009, 06:22 PM   #59
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i'm currently strapping my ceiling cause its in rough shape and also because according to tin ceiling supplyer guy, the tin must be stapled to a wood surface (not plaster, and not drywall). i am using 1x3 spruce strapping. the screws are 2 1/2" #8 wood screws, they are longer than normal because i have to get through the strapping, then the plaster, then the lath and then into the joist. i will then put up some 1/2" thick, 4'x8' sheets of chipboard as the surface for the tin ceiling installation.

straps are hung perpendicular to joists in attic

the joists are hard to find, and stud sensors are no good in my case. i rely on finding the first one, and then 16" on center with measuring tape to find the rest of them. and if you miss the stud, you'll know it cause the screw just spins & spins. so take it out, move it over a bit and try again. simple.

also, notice the wall above the cabinets? that's new drywall that i had to put up, that entire strip around the whole kitchen. why? because there used to be a drop ceiling in here and i guess the original installer "hid" the unfinished wall since you couldn't see it. there was no insulation there or vapour barier or anything. you could see the exterior sheathing!

so i had to fix it and do it right, ack, things you find in an old house reno!



handy spacer bar keeps straps parallel and 16" on center:


Last edited by Knucklez; 01-18-2009 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:11 PM   #60
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Keep up the posts Knucklez. I am loving this story. It is like a great adventure and you are a funny man. I guess having a sense of humour on a project like this is a requirement.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Cheers.

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