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Old 06-20-2009, 11:12 PM   #211
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


oh yeah, plumbers puddy worked great. thx for the tip.

hooked up the dishwasher today.. no more washing one plate at a time in the bathroom pedestal sink. nearly brought a tear to my eye

looking at some tile backsplash options today. found this 1/2" square glass mosiac. it is black glass, grey glass, and white tumbled marble.

what do you think?


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Old 06-21-2009, 03:49 PM   #212
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i like that. maybe Dangermouse or someone can take one of your kitchen pictures and Photoshop it in so We can see what it looks like all done.
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:21 PM   #213
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Fabulous job on the counters.

I'm in awe.

I just have to be honest and say I don't like the small tile backsplash idea. I think it detracts from the counter and fixtures. Too much, too busy.

Just my opinion.

You can find stainless look/aluminium strips at the big box stores in the hardware dept.

Ha, you could mold, pour and polish your own backsplash. I'm sure that sounds like fun.

Since you have a white sink, you might try a basic white larger tile and see.

Also, considering your beautiful floor. How would a spar urethaned wood backsplash look and fair under conditions? I have wood in my darn shower that has been there since the 20's.

My opinion is that mosaic is very now and soon to be very dated. Line up all of your options, consult the wife and make a sound decision.

You are doing awesome. Your kitchen is loved.

Come fix my kitchen.

Last edited by drillbit; 06-21-2009 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:23 PM   #214
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make my own backsplash that's too much work. ha.
but your feedback was very constructive, thanks!

my wife read your post and took your comments into consideration. in the end, she stayed to her original thoughts and decided she likes the neutral safe colours of black/grey/white and she wants the floor to stand out on their own with no help from the backsplash. she also makes a good point that we have learned so much from renovating this old house that we have aquired more than enough skillz to remove and re-do a few years from now if we don't like it anymore.

here are the other options we (her) are considering:






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Old 06-22-2009, 06:07 PM   #215
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Ooh, I vote for the second ones. the long horizontal bars. Certain shapes will fall out of style after 5 years but the stacked look has been around forever.
Beautiful job on the counter! Poured my premix last night. I know you were wondering....the rocks in the Quickrete countertop premix are tiny little pebbles like you would find at the beach.
They are 1/4 the size of the 5000. no tapping, no vibrating-just rolled right out and molded right in. Only concern is the slight epoxy/plastic looking finish.
Keep up the good job, plumbers putty everything with water, and keep those pics coming!
gotta go finish travertine shower.....
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:17 PM   #216
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Too many options.



All of your options are very nice and any would work in your space.

The circles while cool give me a 70's retro feel.

cjanlui makes a good point about the subway style. My only concern with that is the shift from floor to backsplash changing direction.

I wonder how the vertical rectangles would play off your floor?

The mosiac squares are good too.

Like I said, just too many options these days.

I'm sure you and wife will pick what works for you.
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:32 PM   #217
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well.. don't hold your breath. we're going to sit on that one for a while because the tile we like is going to cost us $400.. so we are starting to save up for it.

in the mean time.. i have an old chimney in the same kitchen that is in desperate need for some Antique Brick Veneer (from stoneselex.com). i am just following the instructions given by the manufacturer on how to install this onto a vertical wall which is 1/2" stucco over brick.

the white piece of trim running floor to ceiling is covering a monster gap that was revealed when i peeled all the old drywall off the chimney. it will be painted same colour as the wall

chimney before:


Material to be applied:


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Old 07-12-2009, 09:22 PM   #218
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Have read with great interest the evolution of your countertop. I to am in the middle of pouring my first and have experienced several setbacks as well. My main problem is impatience and "winging" it on my own instead of following tried and proven methods by professionals. I am finished with 2 so far but poured the 2nd one 3 times before I was somewhat satisfied. Have one more to go and am stubbornly gonna attempt to pour a 5' x 8' in one pour. I will probably build some sort of dolly to set it into place. I have purchased the same video as you and has been quite informative. Used a rubber "chiseled granite" mold for a rough edge along with 3 different pigments. Used a nonsanded grout (for ceramic tile) for my slurry which actually worked great however your idea for the slurry is awesome. Also used qc5000. Concrete is awesome but very time consuming.
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Old 07-18-2009, 03:25 PM   #219
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If anyone has any Questions I'll do my best to answer them. I have been making concrete countertops for 6 years now and started by following Cheng's book. Also checkout Buddy Rhodes books and countertop bag mix.

Knucklez, I think you did a great job, and future work will no doubt be even more impressive. You sure got a thrashing on the other forum...
It's not very friendly to DIYer's. There are several things that are done differently now but your enthusiasm is the main ingredient in concrete countertops.
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:23 PM   #220
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Solid-Art, do you use Rhodes mix and if so, is it newbie friendly? If I were to use it, in my final product, would my pigments turn out similiar in color to that with qc5000? I have a big island left to pour and somewhat leary of changing horses in the middle of the stream but still would be interested in the comparison. Also, have you ever had problem with ghosting? I have heard that is when your reinforcement wire is to close to the top but it was in the middle of a 2" slab. Could it be from vibrating to much. I rigged up a vibrator and mounted it under my pour table and ran this while I also used a palm nailer with a body dolly rigged up on it which I worked around the table near my mold. I have been happy with the results so far other than one turning out to look camouflage which I discarded and another had to much ghosting which was also put aside, so after four total pours, I have two acceptable products. Thank goodness for the melamine molds that I just screwed back together and reused.

Vibrator motor: Took a 1/2 hp motor and replaced the set screw in the pulley with a 3" and added about four nuts which acted somewhat as a cam. Screwed it up under table and presto, you have a vibrating table. Could play with other hp motors and weights to get more or less vibration. I probably will in the future before I make another pour to try to get a little harder vibration.
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:42 PM   #221
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i should check that other message board

i guess i was just trying to defend DIY'ers. i read a lot over there that made DIY sound like idiots that just are incompetents and have no business doing renovations. the truth is, we are not as good as pros, but if we can do a satisfactory job that we AND OTHER people think looks great, and it passes and exceeds code (where applicaple) then i guess we're not all bad. that was my point. when you look across the net (and this message board) you find oodles of evidence that suggests DIY'er are a competent bunch which is contrary to what was posted over there.

i'm glad we have a place to get together, share ideas and help each other. i hope others can learn from what i did right and wrong.

if a pro stops by my thread, i hope they point out what is good and what is bad so it helps everyone who reads this in the future.

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Old 07-18-2009, 11:48 PM   #222
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solid-art, what i found difficult was how to avoid swirl marks that are left due to application of the sealer (the cement prior to sealer application is smooth as glass). my wife is not happy how this came out. it is installed in the kitchen now.

solid-art
how do you suggest i fix swirl marks left by incorrect application of sealer? i do not want to have to buff with the wet grinder now that the slab is in the kitchen. i tried rubbing with #000 steel wool but that didn't really work that great. i was planning on using burnishing pads.. and just grind away with my wet grinder but with no water. .. then apply sealer again(hope for better results?) and wax.

what are your suggestions?
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:52 AM   #223
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knucklez, I used a sealer called krystal cote (i think) purchased from "direct colors" and they recommended I use a 10" pad (don't remember its name but you can look up their website and it has it listed). I put several coats applying one coat one direction and the other opposite of the previous with fairly good results. I did however apply to much on the first which resulted in a kind of orange peel effect. I attempted to smooth it down with wet grinder and started with 3000 grit which wouldn't cut it and eventually went down to a 400 (i think) attempting to slick it off which resulted in disaster. This actually cut through a layer of it which resulted in a "whiteness" around the edges of the top layer which had been messed up. I attempted to add another coat hoping that it would disappear but you guessed it, no such luck. I then had to start over with 50 grit and repeat the whole grinding and sealing process over.
I to would be very interested in knowing what process solid-art uses in this step. My surface is very smooth but is not as slick as glass as I was hoping for after adding sealer.
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Old 07-19-2009, 08:39 PM   #224
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WoW had a peek at the post and I am not sure if I want to endurethe pain but looking at your project sure as hell makes it more than worth it.

Looks great.
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:40 AM   #225
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I had a reply but lost it.
So briefly... don't switch to Buddy's mix at this point it will not match,
email me at concretetencounters@gmail.com and I'll give you my #. That goes for anyone else who is having problems.
Solid-Art (Paul)

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