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Old 06-05-2009, 10:31 PM   #166
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


cjanlui - i'm really interested in seeing how quickerete countertop mix is compared to quickerete's 5000psi "commercial grade".

i understand that "commercial grade" has a consistant (bag-to-bag) cement to rock ratio. but i found that the rocks were quite large, and plentiful! i mean, like 50% of the bag was stones!

countertop cement .. appearently, and DON"T QUOTE ME, does not require vibration.

anyway, i'm interested in seeing your result with this new product. please post some pictures when you get a chance.

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Old 06-05-2009, 10:54 PM   #167
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I'm curious and I can look next time I'm at the home improvement store.

I have read that quikcrete 5000 was recommended.

However, the couple of tiny slabs I poured I just used a combo of straight portland and sand. This gave a uniform industrial gray look, but I like it.

I wonder what the portland ratio is in the 5000?

Is more aggregate (rocks vs. sand) really better or not necessary? Especially considering the rebar support?

I'm interested to see how yours turns out.

Are you staining it or going natural?
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:09 PM   #168
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To be straight, my concrete is "technically" sitting in the shed I built a few months ago. I haven't opened the bags to check the rock content but after using the 5000 to patch a hole in the floor I'm praying that this is not the same. I can imagine the nightmare you were having with all them little rocks!

Yeah-no vibration required!!! I had to special order though, 5 days. no biggie. I'm going to start with the smaller vanity in the bathroom, 23" x 49" to get the hang of it then I'll do my kitchen. I don't even have walls up in the bathroom, still working on the plumbing. I could start setting it up now but I wanna see yours first and see if you particularly "like" the smooth side.

Oh, and drillbit- the rocks add structural support in larger pieces to help bind the sand. You can also buy additives for color from your local HD, I'm adding more grey for the darker counters. it's better if its a uniform color throughout vs adding color on top. You won't notice scratches later.

Last edited by cjanlui; 06-05-2009 at 11:14 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 06-06-2009, 07:35 AM   #169
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my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)


Quote:
Originally Posted by cjanlui View Post

I'm going to start with the smaller vanity in the bathroom, 23" x 49" to get the hang of it then I'll do my kitchen.
This may be a stupid question. I have read plenty of info here on concrete countertops, but can you make the sink basin out of concrete as well?

How do you make it water tight?
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:24 AM   #170
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that's not a stupid question at all.

YES, you can build integrated concrete sink, and this has been done by many people including the pros.

however...

the pro "generally" recommends not doing this because the faucet water pouring on the cement will eventually cause a water stain as it will wear away the sealer and you won't notice it until its too late.

oh.. to make it water tight, you form it as ONE PIECE. that is the sink and counter is poured into a mold as once piece. then there are no seams and no water tight issue.

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Old 06-06-2009, 10:22 PM   #171
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Placing Decorative Rocks

first there is a fine coat of silicon caulk spread on the with a flat edge razor. then pressed against the melemine.

you can clearly see the wooden faucet knockouts installed and the plexi glass divide i put in so that i could actually lift this monstrosity during installation.

and yes, that is a horse shoe.


Last edited by Knucklez; 06-07-2009 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:25 PM   #172
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Placing Decorative Stones

there are two sizes of stones here. one is small with rough jagged edges, and the other is size of your finger nail and mostly square shape. the melemine is first sprayed with adhesive and then the stones are scattered.

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Old 06-06-2009, 10:27 PM   #173
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then the metal reinforcement structure is dropped in. notice the 1" thick pink foam is holding it up off the melemine surface. i used mechanics wire to tie the rebar to the outside of the mold (tied to the pour table) and then slipped the foam out. now the metal structure if floating in the air (not shown).

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Old 06-06-2009, 10:30 PM   #174
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Pouring the Cement

filling the mold with cement. typically you would fill so that it is just higher than your frame, so that when you screed the top of it the result is perfectly flat(ish).

for me, because i dropped 1/3 of the cement onto my driveway .. i lost a lot of product, and so when i filled the mold i didn't have enough to fill it up to the level of the frame. i'll have to deal with this problem later.

notice you can see the mechanic wire (which is holding the metal structure) coming out of the mold and tied down to the pour table. ya.. that's what i meant. after the cement is poured, and just before you screed the top of it, you use wire cutters to trim the wires off and then just push the lose end into the wet cement.


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Old 06-06-2009, 10:34 PM   #175
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after i let it cure for 4 days i took the mold apart. it came apart easily, except for the melemine bottom. that took a bit of convincing.

what you see below is, i have taken off the melemine walls and have flipped over the mold. now i am prying off what was the bottom (and will now become the top).

by the way, it took 2 guys to flip this 300lb piece. i'm glad i put that divide in the countertop.. no way we could have flipped anything bigger. (i'm shuttering when i think of installing this thing next week)

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Old 06-06-2009, 10:37 PM   #176
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THE BIG REVEAL

so it turned out great! the surface had virtually NO air pockets. hey, i rented a good vibrator for this job and it totally payed off. note that i also vibrated the outside of the mold walls to help the edges come out good.

you can just barely see the decorative rocks.. they will start to show better once the concrete is ground.

looks like i forgot to take out the sink knockout on this piece. oops. oh, by the way, the method i used to make the knockouts was great. the 3 disks used to form one knockout really was easy to pull out of the dried cement (one disk at a time).

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Old 06-06-2009, 10:39 PM   #177
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WET GRINDING

the grinding started straight away. i started with 50 grit (shown below). the water feed on my china made wet grinder broke off. so i just put a hose on the cement and turned the water on a trickle. made a huge water mess, but i'm out side so no biggy.

when i stick the grinding pad on, i offset it just a bit so when it spins it has a bit of a whirl to it. this is to help reduce the swirl marks left by the heavy grit pad. you don't have to do this for the lighter grits.

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Old 06-07-2009, 03:24 AM   #178
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More! More!

Ahhh, I have no life....

And I hate drywall.....
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:28 AM   #179
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thanks for posting this - i'm really enjoying it and learning a ton.

It is looking good.

When you say you forgot to take out the knock of out ... what point should you have done this ?

It is looking great !
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:29 AM   #180
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dude, note only do i also hate drywall - but i totally suck at it. i'll hire that one out next time for sure.

the knockouts can come out at the same time as when you take the mold apart.

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