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Old 09-15-2010, 02:00 PM   #46
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Jim's downstairs bathroom project


I finally got that last bit of drywall up below the window and in between the surround and window. All the seams are taped now just need to be feathered out. I had a small patch in between where it fell short of 48". I really didn't want to cut into the long side of a new sheet to make up the 51" I needed for that strip. Instead I made a modified "Chicago patch" with face paper on two sides instead of four. It worked well plus there is a single screw holding that patch in the middle of it.

Included the cluttered windowsill since I commented on it in another post.

My plan is to glue that plastic corner guard on with the can of 3M 77 in the picture. I hope that is the right one. There were four types at HD. It's hard to tell from the can labels. I am trying to bond durock on one side to the insice tape and mud, tile the durock side with bullnose tile and mud and paint the adjacent side of the corner. Am I on the right track?
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:00 PM   #47
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Looking good so far!
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:40 PM   #48
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Some update pictures. Not much progress really but the tiles are all placed. I wound up with less than half tile width along the top primarily because I wanted to make sure that I had a near-full tile at the bottom. These pictures demonstrate how I compensated around the door trim and that new bumped out wall. I would have gone a full tile width on the edges but the inside door trim would have had to be shaved too narrow and would have looked odd. I am happy overall With the results. I just have to fill and paint the other side of the outer corner on the bumpout.

I could not believe the amount of time it took to scrape all that mortar out from between the tiles as well as cleaning it off the surfaces. This is mostly due to the fact that I started off with too large of a trowel size.

I have a couple of questions about the grout. I get that I need to add the right amount of water to get the proper consistency then let it slake. I have read differing opinions about Portland based grouts. Some say to mist the joints first. This doesn't sound right to me. It just seems like that would dilute the grout and result in failure. Ant the other suggestion is to use damp paper towels on the tile surface while it cures for 3 days or a humidifier in the room.

Do any of you tile guys do this? This is the grout I have http://www.homedepot.com/Polyblend/h...atalogId=10053. Thanks for your responses
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:21 PM   #49
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Jim, The grout that you have chosen is a good one---Mix with cold clean water --about the consistancy of yellow mustard--

You don't want to do any of the water spraying goofyness--I suggest that ,as a novice, you do one wall at a time.--Use a soft white grout float--the disposable black sponge rubber ones tend to dig into the cracks and cause frustration.

Go back and forth several times and really pack the joints full--use the float like a squeegee--on an angle to the joints,to remove as much excess as you can--

Go have a small cup of coffee-----give the grout 10 to 15 minutes to set a little---

Then start the first 'break'(cleaning)--You will want to have 2 or 3 grout sponges and a couple of buckets of clean water---

The first break is to shape the joints and remove the majority of the excess grout---

Ring out your sponges almost dry--start cleaning using a gentle circular motion---don't try to actually clean the surface with the first break---just shape the joints and remove the majority from the face of the tile------You will probably only get 4 to 9 tiles before you need to flip the sponge---

Second break----no coffee this time--clean water --ring out the sponges almost dry--

All that should be on the tiles at this point is a messy smear---start wiping on a diagonal--

press the sponge flat with both hands and slowly pull the sponge and roll it as you pull --

You should get about 12 inches wiped before you flip the sponge and --press -slowly pull and roll up.


Final cleaning---at this point all that should be on the face of the tile is haze and a lot of small streaks---You can have another cup of coffee----Wait about 15 minutes--

Final wipe--if done correctly--the tile should (had better be) be clean and shiny--done except for the tiniest bit of streaks.

This time --go with the tiles,not diagonally--two hands on the sponge- press-pull and roll only about 12 inches --then flip the sponge and do another 12 inches--rinse ring dry and repeat--

Most beginners try to get to much cleaning out of a dirty sponge--Any one who has wiped up a glob of jelly knows the press and roll of the sponge----Good luck--Mike--
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Old 10-08-2010, 09:50 AM   #50
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Looking good!

I need to re-do our downstairs bath, but my wife will smack me with a frying pan if I try to start before we do the kitchen.
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Old 10-08-2010, 07:39 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoconutPete View Post
Looking good!

I need to re-do our downstairs bath, but my wife will smack me with a frying pan if I try to start before we do the kitchen.
My kitchen needs to be redone also but the bathroom was barely functional even as a half bath. Lots of water damage and a failed shower. I hope to get back to it soon I just have too many other things going on. Maybe grout tomorrow.
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:59 PM   #52
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Great directions, Mike.

I'd like to add a couple of common newbie mistakes to avoid if you haven't started yet.

First, don't get tired and think you can finish the grout clean-up the next day. Don't leave the haze on overnight. You might get away with removing a fine haze on a highly glazed tile the next day, but I wouldn't count on it.

Second. Think of grout as cement. When cleaning up don't dump it down the sink or toilet. Toss it outside somewhere.

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Old 11-05-2010, 08:36 PM   #53
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Blondesense--Good points--way to many posts that start,"How do I get the haze off of my tiles."
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Old 11-06-2010, 03:39 PM   #54
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The grouting went well. did that about two weeks ago. The wipe down got away from me slightly on the last wall, the plumbing wall, because I got my sons 19 and 6 involved in the floating part. The glazed tile is much more forgiving thankfully. I kept two buckets of rinse water and had my older son dumping it outside and refilling with the garden hose.

I lost about two weeks as a result of my young son with mild Autism needing to be placed in a new classroom since the staff of his former classroom could not keep up with him. I took time to home school him during the two weeks until he could get into his new classroom. These are just the kind of things that come up and come between me and finishing this project. I am still debating about sealing the grout joints but it may be overkill.

Since then I have silicone caulked the corners, put PVC molding between the surround walls and ceiling. Now my wife wants me to continue that around the rest of the bathroom ceiling. I discovered that a pin nailer does not give the PVC enough hold and had to switch to the brad nailer. The molding is also glued in place with the bead of silicone I used in all those corner joints. All the nail holes also got silicone so they won't rust. Got a 4'x63" sheet of underlayment down which leaves about another foot to cover in the bathroom. I plan on extending that piece out past the doorway and under the door jambs to give a cleaner transition out into the hallway.

The plan is to install vinal self-stick tiles onto the underlayment then I should be able to install the new vanity and old toilet and finally finish the bathroom before moving out into the hallway and laundry room.

Pics to follow soon.
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Old 11-06-2010, 10:20 PM   #55
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Jim, sounds like you're almost done with your bathroom. I envy you. I'm still at the cement board stage.
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:02 AM   #56
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I find if very hard to work on my own house---Projects seem to take forever---
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:50 PM   #57
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Jim, that looks really good, I know you will be happy to have that behind you. Just a small trick when nailing trim where it don't seem to want to hold is shoot a nail at a 45°angle to the left and with the gun in the same place shoot a nail to the right at a 45° angle. The nails will criss cross and will usually hold.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:56 PM   #58
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Good tip about cris-crossing the pin nails Jim. I did try to shoot them at an angle but did not think to cross them. The PVC is so soft, I'm not sure that some of then didn't shoot straight through even though I lowered my air pressure. The brads got the job done anyhow. They countersunk in the plastic so I could just fill in with silicone.

Got the rest of my underlayment cut and dry fit today, then read that it needs to acclimate to the room so I will leave that for another day before stapling it down. I am using the Sure-Ply that Lowes sells and went to their website for the instructions. It seems to be good stuff- costs about twice as much as Luan so it better be. Took the Luan back after I found out it is not good for damp envornonments.

Have new pictures taken, hope to post them tomorrow or soon. Tomorrow, have to take #1 son to Oneonta for glasses and #1 daughter down to Binghamton to look at apartments so tomorrow is not looking good for work.
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:39 PM   #59
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Jim, I don't know how HD is up your way but down here a person needs to watch their plywood closely as it will delaminate. In critical places I will not chance their plywood.
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:47 AM   #60
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Some pictures of the finished surround. PVC molding on the ceiling. Delta Lewiston faucet.
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Last edited by Jim F; 11-10-2010 at 09:49 AM.
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