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Old 07-22-2010, 08:22 AM   #31
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Jim's downstairs bathroom project


Proby and Jim---Waterproofing the walls is an option that gives you peace of mind and heads off future failure.

In a bath tub --where your major 'wet' area is protected by the tub,you are probably quite safe skipping the waterproofing.

However in a shower--especially one with a tiled base, waterproofing is a really good idea--I think absolutely necessary.

The process is quick and simple---Fill any voids and seams with thinset (mesh is not needed with Hydroban--Don't know about Redguard)

Using a paint brush,apply the waterproofer to the corners and edges--then roll in the Hydroban with a short nap roller. Add the recomended number of coats--then tile.


Latacretes web site has a nice video. Hydroban is used to waterproof pools and fountains--high quality product.---Mike---

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Old 07-22-2010, 10:47 AM   #32
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It's hard to know what to do about the waterproofing. I read that it is a good idea to use poly on the studs to prevent the water that seeps through the grout and durrock or to use a waterproof like Hydro Ban or Red Guard on the durrock to stop it there. I guess either way is acceptable since we are not talking about a lot of water. I feel like I should do something though because my kids take long showers.
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:36 PM   #33
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Red guard is about $50---HydroBan about $110 per gallon.--The critical areas are the mixer wall and the back wall.

One Gallon will do a tub or shower----It's an insurance policy.

Ceramic ,over durrock--properly grouted and caulked is safe without waterproofing in a tub.

The question you must ask yourself is--what if I didn't do every thing properly?---Mike--
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:02 PM   #34
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I think I'm on my way to doing a proper job of it. I've certainly read enough and asked anough questions. I was outside today working on a garage door but that is another thread. What are your thoughts on grout sealer Mike?
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:31 PM   #35
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Grout sealer? It's mostly a 'feel good' thing in my opinion. Modern latex fortified grouts are not helped much with a sealer.

I don't use them. (Boy is that statement going to start a row)

I have seen more than one tile job spoiled when the sealer got on the face of the tile .

You will hear others who think they are great---I service my customers for years---I have never felt a need after cheching up on older installs.--Mike---
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:53 PM   #36
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Just a quick update, no pics. Finally got the tub drain hooked up. I used one of thos Fernco sanitary tees since I had such tight quaters to work in and no room for error with the PVC cement. That was a real lifesaver. The guy at HD told me they were approved for my use. I hope he's right, he is a retired plumber. I've become a familiar face at HD and Lowes. Before I can turn on my water, I have to finish hooking up my new Watts washer shutoff. Saved 10 dollars on that one on Amazon. I got the copper/PEX adapters and PEX fittings I needed for the Watts valve at HD today but ran out of crimp rings so have to go back to HD tomorrow just for those. Did I mention HD is 20 miles away? MY sone poured water down the drain with no leaks. It was nice to hear water running through the pipes and not on the ground.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:50 AM   #37
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I mounted my durock shimmed 1/4 above the tub rim. It actually looks to be a little more than 1/4 inch. I have read that the durrock should rest on the tub rim. The Kohler installation directions are not much help. They show a different flange. Anyone familiar with these cast iron tubs knows there is not much of a flange on them. Is the wall board supposed to actually help to hold the tub in place? My plan at this point is to either remount these resting on the rim or silicone that gap and the tile will sit no more that 1/8" above the rim then caulked. Just wondering if I need to revise or press on.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:58 AM   #38
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It's been suggested that I use a ful tiles width on the sides of the tub. I have room to do that on the window side but not on the door side where I am really tight agains the door frame. I Will have to cut it done to half tile with had trim the door frame too but not sure how that will look. Open to suggestions.
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:36 PM   #39
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Typically the rck is set right on the top of the tub flange----then the gap is filled with thinset AS you set the tile---with a gap that big the thinset might fall through--and leave a hole.

If moving the board down where it belongs is not a good option--Try mixing a small batch,kind of thick--Pack the void first(before tiling) Use a 6" drywall blade---That might take more than one pass to fill the gap---



The tile by the door---how does that layout work from the back wall?

It looks like about a 2" slice is right---If the door trim is thick enough,it is often neater to hollow out the back of the trim with a router or table saw and overlay the trim on top of the tile.(no cuts showing at the trim that way.

If no wood working tools--install trim first and cut tile to the trim---Mike---
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:46 PM   #40
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I would sooner lower the board. Of course I will drill new holes rather than trying to use the same ones 1/4 inch lower. Do you think the mesh tape and thin set as I'm tiling will fill the gap between upper and lower boards so I don't have to move the upper sheets down as well?

I can dado out a strip of the door frame to go over the tiles. That sounds like less work. I really don't like the idea of ripping that frame member thinner. I think it's going to look strange dompares to the other two frame pieces. But, my only other option is to have that frame piece too close to the tub. I'm thinking I need to have the same width on each end of the tub so will probably go with 2 inches since the full 4 isn't an option by the door unless I want to have no frame at all. I think I will dry fit a few options first to see how they look before comitting permanantly. I can sacrifice a frame piece since I salvage the wood from the closet that used to be in that bathroom.

The wet test went well today. Nothing leaks in the bathroom so I can cut and install the durock on the wet wall. Then I should be able to start tiling.
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Old 08-20-2010, 07:01 PM   #41
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Glad to hear that the plumbing checked out!

Your thoughts on dry fitting the tile to check the best(and easiest) is tried and true--

Best way to figure out what will fit on a three foot wall is to lay out three feet of tile!--Mike--
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:04 AM   #42
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Tiling day 1. I was reading through my old posts. In case you haven't noticed I did end up tearing out all that nice finished wall around the tub alcove and talked myself into tiling instead of a cheesy tub surround. There wasn't too much cost as far as wasted materials go. Drywall, mud and paint are relatively inexpensive. But it was a huge waste of time when you consider what it takes to mud, tape and paint. I think I will be much happier with the results. My main motivation for finishing this area first was so that I could reach the ceiling with a ladder. This was dumb since I can just as easily stand on the edge of my cast iron tub. I wouldn't want to try that with a fiberglass tub.

There is a huge learning curve involved with tiling. One tip for first timers when mixing thin set mortar is when you think you have it mixed thick enough, you probably need to mix in more mortar. A little water goes a long way. Consider that this stuff has to stand up on a wall when you comb your trowel through it. I wound up calling Mike (oh'mike) that day because I thought I really messed up my mortar. He assured me that it would not be necessary to dump the batch and start over. I also spent a lot of time switching between a 1/4X1/4" square-notch and a 3/8X1/4" v-notch trowel before finally finding the right comb angle with the v-notch. The square notch was requiring too much cleaning out the grout lines. Also clean your grout lines before that stuff sets.
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Last edited by Jim F; 09-13-2010 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:10 AM   #43
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Day two progress.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:18 AM   #44
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Day three progress. I just took these pictures this morning. The work was done on Thursday. I had to work this weekend at the hospital which was the reason I had a 4-day weekend last week to start this. Saturday was spent at Six Flags New England with the family and my Brother-in-laws family. I think I have just enough thin set to finish the job so I have to cut all the rest of the tiles and plan it so I can do it all with one last batch. Otherwise, I will have to buy another 50 lb bag just to finish up.
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Last edited by Jim F; 09-13-2010 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:10 AM   #45
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Nice job! It looks straight and clean.

I wish I had known about cleaning the grout lines when I tiled my bathroom floor. I'm sure a floor is much easier to tile than walls.

Thanks for the tips and for keeping us updated.

Barb

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