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Old 07-02-2010, 08:47 PM   #16
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Jim's downstairs bathroom project


More pictures of the cat!

Jim--Why is the tub shimmed away from the studs?

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Old 07-02-2010, 11:29 PM   #17
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Good point Mike, somewhere, in my mind, I knew it had to butt up against the studs. I just wasn't making the connection. That means it will have to furred out 1/2 inch more along the back end, bummer.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:40 AM   #18
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I hated to be the one to point that out----
Can the tub be slid against the back wall--and then slid to the left,tight against the plumbing wall?

Then you need to figure out how best to fix the one inch oversize on the right hand wall.

The backer ( or wall board?) sets on top of the tub. Gap filled with firmset or caulk.

--Mike---
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Old 07-05-2010, 06:20 PM   #19
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I've got it tight up against the plumbing wall and that corner of the back wall with maybe a 3/4' gap in the rear corner and 1 3/4" on the wall opposite the plumbing wall. I'm thinking in terms of a slope in the wall above the surround as opposed to a tiny little bumpout shelf that could trap water drops. It's either that or tear out all the way up to the ceiling to fur out and redo those inside corners. There is going to be a transition close to the window which I may be able to partially hide with the window trim.

I'll have the kids home for another week before they start summer school so I don't expect to get much done between now and then. I had a new Cooper brand GFCI outlet fail-the hot screw just stripped out. And just got a replacement for that today. The Leviton I bought looks like a better bet.
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Old 07-05-2010, 06:22 PM   #20
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Mike what is firmset does it have brand name?
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:28 PM   #21
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Thin set (Firmset) is a powdered cement adhesive used to glue the tiles to the walls or floor.

Forgive me if I confused you with the name Firmset--I bought all my supplies for many years from a tile store where I had worked---their brand was called firm set--I guess I fell into the habit of calling it by that name. I know a couple of other tile guys that call it by that name,too


There are two basic types--Unmodified --Just an all cement product--no latex included.

Modified---has powdered latex in the mix--this is the most popular.

As to brands--Mapei--Latacrete--Versabond (by Custom building products) and a dozen more.

Once hardened Thinset is unaffected by moisture. Adhesives in a bucket will return to liquid if they get
wet---Big problem in a shower ---not worth taking a risk. Formulas were changed a few years ago
to meet new govt. regulations.

There was a time when adhesives were an accepted stickum for tubs and showers--not any more.


You will need a hefty drill and a whip to mix the thinset.
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:14 PM   #22
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If I use durrock for my walls, would I be better off using thin set rather that silicone caulk there the tub meets the durrock? Then maybe the silicone for a bead between the surround and the tub.

I had considered using Densshield but could only find 1/4" at Lowes. Most of the places around here that used to carry it stopped due to a fall off in demand. I noticed wonderboard is a lot heavier and stiffer than durrock, that must be used more for tile floors than walls.
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:53 AM   #23
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If you are going to tile the walls--I suggest Durrock-(wonder board is O.K. to just harder to cut)

Install Durrock smooth side out for walls-(rough for floors)

Bring it to the top edge of the tub---that gap is filled with thinset as you tile. mesh tile tape can be used on corners and joints--this is done as you tile--do not tape before tiling--you will end up with a
high spot--you will hate that--your tiles won't lay flat.

If you wish to waterproof the Durrock I suggest you look at HydroBan by Latacrete.
They have a website with a video.(Taping is not needed with hydroBan)

RedGuard is a brand I hear mentioned here a lot--It's a lot cheaper--I've never had a reason to check it out as the HydroBan has performed so well.

Ask away--Mike--
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:17 PM   #24
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More pics
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:19 PM   #25
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I'd add a stud (ripped or not) to get a full tile alongside the tub at floor to ceiling. Divide by tile with grout space for distance from corner..... tub is 30", minus the b.b., minus the tile/thinset thickness.... so you don't have to rip itty bitty tiles next to the tub.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:03 PM   #26
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That's pretty much what Mike suggested. I don't know If youve noticed but the tub came up 1.5 inches short of reaching the original wall studs which is why I am able to face nail that 2x4 over the stud. But yeah, I can see now where it would be good to extent that out. wasn't seeing with that much clarity this afternoon so left it loose for now. I got the adjacend stud ripped and placed. That one was just shy of 1 1/4 inch so had to rip it off a 2x4. Don't own a table saw yet so used the circular saw. The corner looks to be about an 3/4 inch but havent measures it yet- hoping to get by with some 1x lumber there.

At any rate, glad to get back to it after the kids 2-week school break (they are in summer school now).
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:05 PM   #27
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It took some doing but I finally got the all the wall studs plum and relatively even with each other. I still don't have a table saw so the ripped the furring strips with my craftman hand held circular saw which thankfully has a nice carbide blade. Also smoothed the strips out with a small surform board.

I extended the one 2x out to the side of the tub That brings it right to the edge of my window sill. I can cut the sill down if I need to extend further. I'm not quit sure yet how I will transition that bump out along side that tub. I have the white 4x4 tiles purchased but no trim pieces or bull noses yet. I am open to ideas or even pictures about how to transition that edge. It sticks out 1 1/2 inches, the thickness of a 2x4. I am considering a 2x6 in that corner and it needs to be planed down some to be flush with the tub. But I think that part is just about done.

My six year old got in the bathroom and drew a self portrait next to where the toilet is going to be on my new paint. Plus we gashed the new wall bringing in the tub but I think the door trim will cover that.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:06 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
If you wish to waterproof the Durrock I suggest you look at HydroBan by Latacrete.
They have a website with a video.(Taping is not needed with hydroBan)

RedGuard is a brand I hear mentioned here a lot--It's a lot cheaper--I've never had a reason to check it out as the HydroBan has performed so well.
In what situations should one waterproof?
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:18 PM   #29
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I have a question about a fitting in this picture. There is what looks like a hand tighten-able nut on the top of the p-trap piece. What is that for, so you can move the p-trap if necessary?





You can also see one in this picture, why isn't that just a glued fitting?

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Old 07-22-2010, 08:47 AM   #30
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It's the same fitting- the tub drain p-trap. I put it it there temporarily while trying to figure out how that would fit the best. If I use it permanently, I will leave myself access to it underneath for clean out purposes. The insulation under the floor is OCF rigid foam board- 4 inch total. Most likely I will swap it out for a glued trap.

Mike has mentioned Red Guard but he doesn't use it so can't recommend it. It is cheaper than the Hydro Ban and they sell the Red Guard at Lowes so I may use it. The Hydro Ban is probably better stuff for the higher price but I would have to order it online.

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