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Old 10-30-2013, 07:10 PM   #61
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


How is the other build next to you going? Same builder & subs on that job also? Have you talked to that owner to see what their thoughts are?

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Old 10-30-2013, 11:19 PM   #62
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


Whooo, didn't get nearly as much done as I wanted to tonight, kept going back to the to catch up on the Sox game (native M******* here!).

We walked through the house next door, but I didn't know even what I know thanks to you guys. I'll take another look this weekend.
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:04 PM   #63
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


Far as I can tell, all the headers are correct as called for on the plans. The 2-2x8 for over most of the walls are there, look closer- people. Hard to see the 3-2x12 over the 18' great room. Gable end of the sunroom do not require headers as per plan. Gable truss suffices. Nice framing other than around here (in seismic zone) a shear wall inspection is required, before the housewrap. Rest assured, inspections are being done correctly to close the sale for occupancy. If not hire someone local or post way more pictures.

The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above.


Gary
PS. Your wall is stronger with the headers just under top plate than a header directly above the window with cripples above for flex, no worries.
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 10-31-2013 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:20 PM   #64
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


It's been super busy around this house and I haven't been up yet to take a look recently.

Windows are in, roof is done. We've got our post-construction/pre-finishing meeting on Thursday for a walk-through of the place. Next-door neighbor sent a couple more pictures. I know it's mostly the same/boring pictures right now.







I always said that "houses with no windows on the side look stupid", then I went and built one myself. Ah well. There was no point in them on that side of the house for the cost. Plenty of windows in the front and rear. The single window is at the bottom of the staircase.



Deck plans already flying through my head. They offer a "deck" for about $8K, and it's this little 10'x10' thing. Screw that.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:11 AM   #65
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave88LX View Post

FYI this is in York, PA.
PA's tornado county.

Looks like it will be a nice place when done.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:22 AM   #66
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


I feel the same way about gable ends without windows and I also designed my renovation without windows on one side.
There is however a sour puss neighbor on that side I won't need to look at.


The house is coming along nicely.

I am curious about the lack of roof overhand on the gable end. Are all houses in your area like that?
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:43 AM   #67
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


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Originally Posted by Dave88LX View Post








I always said that "houses with no windows on the side look stupid", then I went and built one myself.
Is that the west side of the home? You will be happy in the heat of the summer that no windows are there.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:32 AM   #68
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


It's actually the Southeast side. I'll get plenty of light coming in through the front and back windows though.

This site is neat:
http://www.suncalc.net/
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:40 PM   #69
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


We have our post-construction/pre-finishing meeting tomorrow afternoon.

Any questions I should ask or things I should be looking/checking for? I think walking in with a level would be a bit ballsy.
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:08 PM   #70
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier, check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall. Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass. I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors.... What type of siding?
http://www.deckmagazine.com/safety/structure.aspx

Gary
PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 11-14-2013 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:10 PM   #71
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in WA View Post
Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier: "The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above."
I was running out of time today to get down to the basement and get the pictures down there, but I can get those easily because they are not finishing it. Unfortunately I don't have that information right now.

Quote:
check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall.
I wasn't able to crawl around there today because the siding crew had all their stuff setup. I will give that a look next time I'm up. I imagine you can't see what you are looking for here?



Quote:
Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass.
Never knew such a thing existed in houses! I've seen in in cars plenty. Judging by this picture, it's pretty close; I'll have to get a measurement. I didn't opt for a deck ($8K for a tiny little thing), so I don't know if they take that into consideration or if it matters. I'll check the glass and height out too next time; thanks for the link on it.




Quote:
I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors.... What type of siding?
Dang! Haven't moved and that honey-do list is already started. It's vinyl siding.



Quote:
PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..
I am pretty hard to please. I come from a networking background with beginnings in cabling & telephone, so I'm a stickler for neat/tidy/organized/presentation. I was very happy with what I've seen so far in the house. I don't know if some things are above and beyond or code, but either way it's nice to see.

Example is all this sealant. It's between every exterior wall 2x that I saw. "Good guys" or code? Also, here's a full shot of the wall that sparked a 4 page debate.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:39 PM   #72
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


The kick-out flashing looks like this: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item...-intersections it is used where any wall extends past the intersecting roof as to the right of the sunroom door, front of house where great room addition? gable ties into house wall to the right of front door, you can see it from ground with binoculars or +++ camera phone. Pic in basement later would be appreciated.

Just measure the distance from the bottom edge of opening part of window to subfloor OSB and subtract the finish flooring (eg. minus 3/4" for hardwood) to be over 18" for code or you will need to re-glaze (purchase and install) all the windows effected by the deck. Sometimes they forget, sometimes they forget on purpose, and sometimes they just don't care. The fiberglass insulation used to stop air next to the windows is NA; http://books.google.com/books?id=a29...995%29&f=false

You are under the 2012 IECC; http://www.reedconstructiondata.com/...odes/maryland/

I'm surprised the builder is able to seal next to the windows with air-permeable fiberglass--- even if he added continuous caulking on 3 sides of the windows/Tyvek--- and still pass the air pressure test;


"TABLE N1102.4.1.1 (R402.4.1.1) AIR BARRIER AND INSULATION INSTALLATION

COMPONENT CRITERIAa Air barrier and thermal barrier A continuous air barrier shall be installed in the building envelope.
Exterior thermal envelope contains a continuous air barrier.
Breaks or joints in the air barrier shall be sealed.
Air-permeable insulation shall not be used as a sealing material. Ceiling/attic The air barrier in any dropped ceiling/soffit shall be aligned with the insulation and any gaps in the air barrier sealed.
Access openings, drop down stair or knee wall doors to unconditioned attic spaces shall be sealed. Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed. Windows, skylights and doors The space between window/door jambs and framing and skylights and framing shall be sealed.

" From; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_par052.htm

Compare your fg install to this one, notice all the sides of your studs showing and all the wrickles in the paper facing (you could go in and slightly pull the insulation away from being pushed toward the sheathing so when they drywall you will have full contact with it hence no convective loops); From that previous link;

"Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed." Bold is mine.

Pages 43-48; http://www.buildingscienceconsulting...Measure_Up.pdf

"
The siding is fine- if cement board I would have more comments, lol.

Gary
PS. maybe I sound a little overboard on the gaps at the drywall/insulation- lol- maybe not- better to have a gap behind the insulation than in front; Fig.2a, 2b;https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q..._NGatSVo3wzmAQ
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 11-15-2013 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:27 PM   #73
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


And........... what did they say? Any news?

Gary
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:36 PM   #74
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


I have been running around with (for) the wife all weekend...I need to get the kids out of my hair so I can sit down and digest all that!

I do know that the drywall was being delivered when I was there on Thursday, I imagine it's probably already up by now.

Your knowledge of construction and codes is incredible Gary. I'm sure you've said it before, but what is your job?
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:06 PM   #75
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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...


Not to derail this, but the homes in this link are built by today's standards. If they were built by the older standards, or had wind ties on the walls & rafters, the structures would not have been so bad, when the Tornado ripped through.

http://www.weather.com/news/weather-...453cbddbd2db7c

I personally would tell the GC to go and put in Wind ties while the drywall is still not up, so at least you have a chance, in case you do get one of these events. So far there has been over 76 confirmed Tornado touchdowns, with damage Missouri, up through Illinois, part of lower Michigan, over to Ohio.

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