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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

24K views 111 replies 14 participants last post by  Gary in WA 
#1 ·
DIY...yeah yeah. It would take me 30 years to build a house.:laughing: Will still be PLENTY of DIY projects to tackle on the new house, but it will be things I want to do, when I want to do them. Not a constant state of repair and remodel. Maybe I will actually get to spend time with my kids instead of constantly working on the house. We will be moving up southeast of York, PA.

We were supposed to move in back in August, but there were some permit issues with the development, now we are looking at mid-end of December. I have someone interested in renting my place, so hopefully that will pan out.

They just broke ground a couple of weeks ago, very very exciting. Figured I'd share these pics with you. Comment, critique, ask questions, whatever. :thumbsup:


Most add-ons and upgrades we opted for were all structural, as that can't be upgraded cheaply later on. First floor add-ons we opted for were the wall of windows, the Sunroom, and the side-loaded 3-car garage. That bump-out for the Sunroom is reflected in the basement as well, so we get that extra space down there. Upgraded basement walls to 9' height.
 
#70 · (Edited)
Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier, check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall. Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass. I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors.... What type of siding?
http://www.deckmagazine.com/safety/structure.aspx

Gary
PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..
 
#71 ·
Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier: "The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above."
I was running out of time today to get down to the basement and get the pictures down there, but I can get those easily because they are not finishing it. Unfortunately I don't have that information right now.

check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall.
I wasn't able to crawl around there today because the siding crew had all their stuff setup. I will give that a look next time I'm up. I imagine you can't see what you are looking for here?



Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass.
Never knew such a thing existed in houses! I've seen in in cars plenty. Judging by this picture, it's pretty close; I'll have to get a measurement. I didn't opt for a deck ($8K for a tiny little thing), so I don't know if they take that into consideration or if it matters. I'll check the glass and height out too next time; thanks for the link on it.




I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors.... What type of siding?
Dang! Haven't moved and that honey-do list is already started. :laughing: It's vinyl siding.



PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..
I am pretty hard to please. I come from a networking background with beginnings in cabling & telephone, so I'm a stickler for neat/tidy/organized/presentation. I was very happy with what I've seen so far in the house. I don't know if some things are above and beyond or code, but either way it's nice to see.

Example is all this sealant. It's between every exterior wall 2x that I saw. "Good guys" or code? Also, here's a full shot of the wall that sparked a 4 page debate.:laughing:
 
#72 · (Edited)
The kick-out flashing looks like this: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/ite...-flash-troublesome-roof-to-wall-intersections it is used where any wall extends past the intersecting roof as to the right of the sunroom door, front of house where great room addition? gable ties into house wall to the right of front door, you can see it from ground with binoculars or +++ camera phone. Pic in basement later would be appreciated.

Just measure the distance from the bottom edge of opening part of window to subfloor OSB and subtract the finish flooring (eg. minus 3/4" for hardwood) to be over 18" for code or you will need to re-glaze (purchase and install) all the windows effected by the deck. Sometimes they forget, sometimes they forget on purpose, and sometimes they just don't care. The fiberglass insulation used to stop air next to the windows is NA; http://books.google.com/books?id=a298Hrpiu8AC&pg=PA123&lpg=PA123&dq=Proskiw+%281995%29&source=bl&ots=R3I2-fFVTl&sig=beKYTj24gopGv73x7cKL9XKEyJY&hl=en&ei=MHkNTbCWJou6sQPAiPXyCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Proskiw%20%281995%29&f=false

You are under the 2012 IECC; http://www.reedconstructiondata.com/building-codes/maryland/

I'm surprised the builder is able to seal next to the windows with air-permeable fiberglass--- even if he added continuous caulking on 3 sides of the windows/Tyvek--- and still pass the air pressure test;


"TABLE N1102.4.1.1 (R402.4.1.1) AIR BARRIER AND INSULATION INSTALLATION

COMPONENT CRITERIAa Air barrier and thermal barrier A continuous air barrier shall be installed in the building envelope.
Exterior thermal envelope contains a continuous air barrier.
Breaks or joints in the air barrier shall be sealed.
Air-permeable insulation shall not be used as a sealing material. Ceiling/attic The air barrier in any dropped ceiling/soffit shall be aligned with the insulation and any gaps in the air barrier sealed.
Access openings, drop down stair or knee wall doors to unconditioned attic spaces shall be sealed. Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed. Windows, skylights and doors The space between window/door jambs and framing and skylights and framing shall be sealed.

" From; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_11_par052.htm

Compare your fg install to this one, notice all the sides of your studs showing and all the wrickles in the paper facing (you could go in and slightly pull the insulation away from being pushed toward the sheathing so when they drywall you will have full contact with it hence no convective loops); From that previous link;

"Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed." Bold is mine.

Pages 43-48; http://www.buildingscienceconsultin...010-03-10_When_R-Value_Doesn t_Measure_Up.pdf

"

The siding is fine- if cement board I would have more comments, lol.

Gary
PS. maybe I sound a little overboard on the gaps at the drywall/insulation- lol- maybe not- better to have a gap behind the insulation than in front; Fig.2a, 2b;https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...9EVKki&sig=AHIEtbTb5UnlVQ7Je0R-_NGatSVo3wzmAQ
 
#73 ·
And........... what did they say? Any news?

Gary
 
#74 ·
I have been running around with (for) the wife all weekend...I need to get the kids out of my hair so I can sit down and digest all that!:thumbsup:

I do know that the drywall was being delivered when I was there on Thursday, I imagine it's probably already up by now.:laughing:

Your knowledge of construction and codes is incredible Gary. I'm sure you've said it before, but what is your job?
 
#75 ·
Not to derail this, but the homes in this link are built by today's standards. If they were built by the older standards, or had wind ties on the walls & rafters, the structures would not have been so bad, when the Tornado ripped through.

http://www.weather.com/news/weather...7?hootPostID=0d12675f3c80d90a66453cbddbd2db7c

I personally would tell the GC to go and put in Wind ties while the drywall is still not up, so at least you have a chance, in case you do get one of these events. So far there has been over 76 confirmed Tornado touchdowns, with damage Missouri, up through Illinois, part of lower Michigan, over to Ohio.
 
#76 ·
Oh my God...those are some incredibly devastating pictures.

Greg, I'm confused by this statement: "If they were built by the older standards, or had wind ties on the walls & rafters, the structures would not have been so bad." Are you saying that older standards were better?

For anyone who is bored and has nothing better to do and wants to look through some framing pictures, here's the whole album. Make sure to click "All Photos." I don't know why Google defaults to "Highlights".
https://plus.google.com/photos/1056...ms/5946292067841338865?authkey=CJ7D9PC6_abHFQ


I do know there are hurricane ties on the rafters.




I don't know the location of all the wind ties, but I did find at least one in the garage. I also see the insulation, I believe Gary was getting at the paper should not be crinkled and come all the way out to the face edge of the stud. Should there be something taping the pieces together? I assume they were pre-cut to length batts instead of a roll.
 
#77 · (Edited)
There are some homes in that neighborhood, that were on the edge of the direct path, that suffered only roof loss, but the walls are still standing. Those homes that were built at the same standard that your builder is; that is to stand only up to 90mph winds, no framing to keep the structure from being pulled apart, only using OSB to hold the walls together, etc.

Older standards, homes could withstand up to being hit with 150mph winds, and still have only roofing damage. If you have Wind ties on the rafters, and walls, it at least holds the structure together, so it does have somewhat of a chance of getting through the majority of the storm.

That community that is in those pictures, is less than 15 years old. The builder that built most of those homes there, has been in trouble recently for shoddy building practices, cutting corners, etc..

Looking at your bottom pic, it does look like they have used a tie on that framing, but do not see any on your rafters to the walls. I would have them double those baffles, since it is only 3/4 of the roof area, that they are covering. It will leave a dead space, that can have issues, if they do not cover the whole space between the rafters.

After looking at your pictures, I can see the ties in one of them, where they tied the rafter to the wall. Not to be too picky, I just would not want to spend all of this money, then have issues come down the road in two or three years. I have had too many friends and family that have built homes in the past six years, and have had nothing but problems, when it comes to various things.
 
#83 ·
There are some homes in that neighborhood, that were on the edge of the direct path, that suffered only roof loss, but the walls are still standing. Those homes that were built at the same standard that your builder is; that is to stand only up to 90mph winds, no framing to keep the structure from being pulled apart, only using OSB to hold the walls together, etc.

Older standards, homes could withstand up to being hit with 150mph winds, and still have only roofing damage. If you have Wind ties on the rafters, and walls, it at least holds the structure together, so it does have somewhat of a chance of getting through the majority of the storm.
Looking at the blueprints, it says 90 MPH. Is that above, below, or at normal spec? Why did the standard change from 150 MPH to 90 MPH; or is it a regional thing? I do have wind ties on the rafters (see pics), and the rim joist straps/tie downs (see pics).

That community that is in those pictures, is less than 15 years old. The builder that built most of those homes there, has been in trouble recently for shoddy building practices, cutting corners, etc..
Is that not caught during inspections, overlooked, or just not cared about?

Looking at your bottom pic, it does look like they have used a tie on that framing, but do not see any on your rafters to the walls.[/quote]Check out the attic pics, I thought those were the hurricane ties that you are talking about?

I would have them double those baffles, since it is only 3/4 of the roof area, that they are covering. It will leave a dead space, that can have issues, if they do not cover the whole space between the rafters.
I'm not following here...

After looking at your pictures, I can see the ties in one of them, where they tied the rafter to the wall. Not to be too picky, I just would not want to spend all of this money, then have issues come down the road in two or three years. I have had too many friends and family that have built homes in the past six years, and have had nothing but problems, when it comes to various things.
Ugh, I should have just gone with Ryan Homes, I hear they have a great reputation! :laughing: Belieeeeve me I don't want issues either! I'm so tired of issues.

Do these "awards" mean anything? I was hoping they did. :whistling2:
http://www.charterhomes.com/awards

http://www.probuilder.com/2013-national-housing-quality-award-winners
 
#84 ·
I did notice some of the ductwork had been compressed little where electric was ran. Why would they do that? I'm sure the NM cable would fit between the duct and the drywall.

Is that a code thing or a "shouldn't do that" thing?

EDIT: I see you saw the hurricane ties now in the other pics.
 
#79 ·
This is the garage. That wall to the right is the backside of the kitchen. Why OSB; because it's considered an exterior wall? Master bedroom is above the garage.




Load-bearing wall of the sunroom. There is a header above the window behind the insulation. I was confused until he showed me.




Looking into the kitchen from the sunroom. Dining room is on the far side behind it.




Living Room.




From the living room looking towards the front door.



Just some gee-whiz pics.









A sea of 2x4s.









 
#80 ·
Most likely they are using the OSB as a soundproofing barrier between the garage & living space. Because they are going to place 5/8" drywall over that OSB, inquire if they can use Green Glue between the OSB & Drywall, to further cut down any noise transmitted from the garage to the living space.

The GC may hem or haw about using the Green Glue, but it is worth it in cutting down noise transmission.
 
#94 ·
You are correct on there. The majority of builds around my area are clean around the site, but you still tend to find some minor issues, but also have found some pretty major ones on a couple of builds that I was asked to go through, for someone that was looking to buy, that was relocating for my wife's company.

Knowing this is detracting from Dave's thread, but I look at it as a learning experience for all of us, and also helps Dave out, since he has more on his plate right now, and knowing his day job, I feel that he is as particular about the job being done right, and not having to worry about issues later on down the road.

Also I say catch the problems now, then find them later at the final walk through, or six months after you move in.
 
#95 ·
First, don't concern yourself about the foundation hold-downs as that is one (major) item the field building inspector will catch/look for. Don't fret because of info supplied that may or may not pertain to your house/locale.

The good- need explanation, just ask;

1. H2.5 truss to wall hardware (as you noticed)
2. wire/plumb holes in top/btm plates foamed
3. btm plate caulked per energy code
4. metal ties across wall plates installed
5. repair to studs with aprvd Simpson bracket
6. did gap OSB roof sheathing
7. did use mortar to set tub on
8. did insulate behind tub/shwr before install
9. did OSB on garage/house wall for lateral shear (not sound-proofing)
10. bonus- insulated gar. exterior wall- not required


The bad;

1. floor joist blocking at laps over bearing walls per code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_5_par028.htm
the framers installed it and the subs removed it for ducts/pipes/etc.
Pic. 10, 16, 19 and joist mid-span where duct ran through- should add a flat 2x4 to make sections w. blks = one unit across floor; Post 78, 79. The drywall will help though pick-up carpenter should have caught/replaced blks.w. 2x4. Blks missing at left of stairs in floor above. Pics. #6, 9, 10, solid blk missing.

2. Fire-blocking missing; top lip of tub and shower in wall, Pic. 15, 21, 24, per code; concealed spaces- #2; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par072.htm
fire-blocks missing in house wall at elevation of drop-ceiling in garage, Pic. 36.

They could easily add compressed fg rather than solid wood; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par073.htm

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par075.htm

No pics of foundation HDs but as I said- Doubt they are missing. The solid blocking for running floor joist (floor diaphragm shear-flow) appear to be missing, you need to check; Page 11 here; http://www.awc.org/pdf/WFCM_90-B-Guide.pdf
No tape on faced insulation= area weighed. If truss papers are still on site (for inspector) check on gable-end truss bracing every 10' (a diagonal brace running from top chord gable-end truss (only) at 45* angle down to bottom on a 2x4 across the bottom chords horizontally for wind shear bracing). Check near (within 6') of the attic access hole that Romex wires on truss chords are protected by wood boards from people stepping on, per code.
These are are fairly minor things that I wouldn't lose sleep over, except the beam/post bearing in floor. I have seen way too many of those missing when checking framing. I would, however, insist they canned foam- low-expanding "window n door" all windows after removing the fg insulation. That is a major air infiltration area. And remember, IMHO.

Gary
 
#96 ·
Gary, I'm not positive that the picture numbers you are listing are matching up to the ones I am looking at. Either that I am very confused.:laughing:

Would you mind posting pic #15 so that I can compare it to what I see, to make sure I am looking at the same thing as you?

Thank you!

Everyone else, I'll be around later to address some other things. Futzing with tile right now. :(
 
#97 · (Edited)


"2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings."------ from; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par072.htm

And;



Had a sharp County Inspector catch me on that (only) once as it is an air connection between vertical/horizontal spaces- from under the tub (horiz.) to above the tub in the wall (vertical). Others let it slide--- check locally with AHJ or ignore... they will feel bad enough they are still using fg to air seal around windows from a code change in 2009; #2 air barrier; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_par035.htm

as they now up-dated to 2012 code they should have been doing correctly years ago.

Gary
PS. if you weren't so busy we could give you correct procedure/materials for the tile- many tile pros here; O'Mike and Jazzman to name a couple.
 
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#98 · (Edited)
That's the aggravating thing about using Google+ for pictures. It defaults to "Highlights" instead of "All Pics" (top left), so unfortunately the numbers you are is not the same for others unless you have "All Pics" selected. :censored: I can't find a setting to change that.

I'll have to learn the things you pointed out one thing at a time...the knowledge you are lending is awesome/great, yet, overwhelming to a new guy. I don't mean that negative, I like it. I just have a lot to look up and learn.

I apologize for the small pics, I'm on my laptop. I'll edit them when I am on the desktop so Google displays the bigger pics for me to pick from.


Regarding this:
"2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings."------ from;http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_3_par072.htm
Here is a view of the other side of that wall. Is that fire blocking at the top there?







It looks like I caught the other bathroom in the corner of a couple other pics...is it there?




 
#100 ·
That would be for them to attach the drywall to. It is the same setup in my house from the late 1930's. Using the 1/2" or 5/8" plywood, allows them a place to attach the drywall, since they do not have a joist or rafter at that point where the wall is.

BTW, did you get a chance to ask the GC, if they will use Green Glue on that wall in the Garage, where the OSB is, before they put up the Drywall?
 
#102 · (Edited)
That would be for them to attach the drywall to. It is the same setup in my house from the late 1930's. Using the 1/2" or 5/8" plywood, allows them a place to attach the drywall, since they do not have a joist or rafter at that point where the wall is.
Does it not also block off the attic, or is there supposed to be something else?

EDIT: If I am to read Gary right, it should be right above the tub inside the wall?

BTW, did you get a chance to ask the GC, if they will use Green Glue on that wall in the Garage, where the OSB is, before they put up the Drywall?
I did not yet. Thanks for the reminder. The annoying thing is that they (understandably) have their way of doing things and can't really just tell them to do or change things as they go.

One example is I asked if by chance when they wired the garage, if I could drop off some 12/2 so that I could have 20A out there instead. Answer was no, it's a liability, if a fire starts and it's determined that something is wrong with the wire etc. etc. I understand that they have their rules they have to follow, on that same coin, I can find out, but can't make them do anything either.

Next house I'm going to have one of you guys GC it!:laughing:
 
#106 ·
Think ya missed the link...which thread?

Yeah I have a lot going on, got that right! I'm still 2-3 pages of replies behind on some of the things in this thread. My "list" of things I need to finish in this current house before my renter takes it over is pretty huge too.

It sucks that the new place is 1 hour 10 minutes away (without Baltimore traffic), so I can't really get there as often as I would like to.
 
#105 ·
That is ridiculous, that they would not let you spec out for 20 amp circuits, or even if you wanted a charging station for a electric vehicle. How hard is it going to be for you to pull your own later on?

As for that plywood, no it is just there for attachment at the top plate. I was surprised that my house has it up on the top plate, due to the age of the house, and that they were just starting to manufacture plywood, because of military aircraft and water craft that we were building at that time for England and our country.

Going back to wanting 20 amp circuits in the garage, because of how they have done the walls & that the ceiling is insulated, you may be best to use conduit and paint it to match the wall color. My other suggestion, would be to place just a couple on that back wall where the OSB is, using an external box and conduit, and then just use a heavy duty cord on a reel, when you need that extra amperage.

I keep a couple of #10 extension cords in my garage, when I need to power equipment while outside, that would trip a 15 amp breaker. Of course when I redid my garage, I put in 20 amp circuits for outlets, and 15 amp circuit for lighting out there. Now that I have a welder, and want to get a 90 amp Mig, I really need to pull #8 or #6, so I can have the extra amperage out there for that kind of stuff.
 
#109 ·
We better hurry and push the views on this thread. Right now the German House rebuild thread, is 708,422 views, 2,521 posts. Dave, you have a lot of work on your shoulders, to beat Shumaker Scott in his rebuild.

If you have not looked at it Dave, it is http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/german-house-rebuild-23424/ Just do not show the wife the after pictures, show her only the before and the man shop.
 
#110 ·
Tell you what's funny! This thread has 2155 views when I just checked.

Before my wife decided, I mean, we decided to move and have a house built, I was doing a LOT of work and remodeling on this house (most of it before I found this forum unfortunately). I created this thread 2 years ago with full intentions of renovating my basement before I got torn in 20 different directions with my job, had a second child etc., and it never came to fruition.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/basement-remodel-help-efficient-layout-diagram-incl-123007/

Views: 2,055
Replies: 0

:lol:

When I have some time to kill (read: relaxing in the new house) I will have to take a seat and read over that thread.
 
#111 ·
I have found that some threads fall off at times. Especially around that time, the board was really busy, so some things got missed. Maybe now since you brought it up, someone will bring that one back to life.

If you do a search for "Pellet Stove" on there, he has a really nice setup for his boiler in the rebuilt home, and same for his Pellet furnace in his living room. I like how he did his Man cave upstairs, with corks on the wall. He is ex-Army, and did IED training with NATO troops. I do not know what he does now, since he does not really talk much about it in the thread.

Scott has given a lot of good ideas on re-purposing stuff, or even with how he used LED lighting for his garage, which is a shelter that he has insulated, and built wood walls inside. The guy knows his stuff, and has a lot of good ideas in that thread as I stated before.
 
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