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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

24K views 111 replies 14 participants last post by  Gary in WA 
#1 ·
DIY...yeah yeah. It would take me 30 years to build a house.:laughing: Will still be PLENTY of DIY projects to tackle on the new house, but it will be things I want to do, when I want to do them. Not a constant state of repair and remodel. Maybe I will actually get to spend time with my kids instead of constantly working on the house. We will be moving up southeast of York, PA.

We were supposed to move in back in August, but there were some permit issues with the development, now we are looking at mid-end of December. I have someone interested in renting my place, so hopefully that will pan out.

They just broke ground a couple of weeks ago, very very exciting. Figured I'd share these pics with you. Comment, critique, ask questions, whatever. :thumbsup:


Most add-ons and upgrades we opted for were all structural, as that can't be upgraded cheaply later on. First floor add-ons we opted for were the wall of windows, the Sunroom, and the side-loaded 3-car garage. That bump-out for the Sunroom is reflected in the basement as well, so we get that extra space down there. Upgraded basement walls to 9' height.
 
#13 ·
Now is there a way as a "buyer" to go and "make" the builder do/change things? Roof is already on, and it should be finished tomorrow (roof). Something I could show him that says "No, this is code, and this is the way it is supposed to be done." ?

When is the determination made between a header and cripple studs in an opening?

Are there code violations you see, or just not following "best practices"?

I just don't understand. They're using a crap-ton of lumber, does it really take THAT much more time to build it better?

RE: Diagonal bracing, I think I see some in post #3, pics 1 / 2 / 3 / 5 / 6, unless you are talking about something else?

I don't believe it has "passed" yet, as it is still in the framing stages.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I am unable to attach the pdf of some pages from the 1975 edition of "Basic Carpentry" by John Capotosto (The copy I have is pretty beat up, since it came from my dad, who got it from my mom's father, who ran one of the largest construction businesses in Illinois & Iowa). It would show how older traditional framing of walls, window & door openings were done, compared to today.

I did "snip" the pictures from the document for you to see:
 

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#15 · (Edited)
Do non-load bearing walls get full headers over windows and doors?

Thread here:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/door-headers-non-loadbearing-walls-81958/


Intersting viewpoints here:
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/...en-to-use-a-header-and-not-interior-partition.
We would never put a structural header in a non-structural wall - just seems stupid and wasteful - I'd actually think less of a job if I saw that, wonder if the crew understood the difference. We still put cripples in, mostly just for consistency's sake - so we know later exactly where to find framing. But I'm sure that could be omitted as well on standard width openings.



 
#20 ·
Have your contractor block each side of the window openings for curtains and drapes. I am an old time builder so I am not familiar with that type of header, but it don't look very sturdy.
 
#32 ·

I finally had time to check out the drawings. if you look next the window openings you'll notice "2-2x8". in my opinion this would be a 2 ply 2x8 header as I cannot think of another reason of having a 2 ply 2x8 at a window, certainly not sill, jack or king studs.

is the builder also the one that designed the home? if not, contact the designer and inquire from them .....

hope this helps. :thumbsup:
 
#30 ·
Just browsing through your prints I can see shear wall panels with specified nailing pattern, also holdowns are called out- this by far replaces old school let in cross bracing.

I think I also saw reference to 2009 code- sounds pretty current.
I too don't like the header design- hard to get used to new ideas, but it must meet code......
I'm thinking this is done for energy efficiency- rather than being solid wood you can now fill that area with insulation. Same with some of you exterior corners and partition intersections.
 
#38 ·
I don't believe the builder designed the plans/house. The main company is Charter Homes: http://www.charterhomes.com/ The builder is just doing this neighborhood. I see some of the available houses in this neighborhood also in their other neighborhoods.

With this sun room not having anything over it but a roof, does that change things in what some of you were asking? I'll get a look at the trusses this weekend.


Just browsing through your prints I can see shear wall panels with specified nailing pattern, also holdowns are called out- this by far replaces old school let in cross bracing.
Holddowns? What does this mean? I assume this changes some original thoughts too?
 
#40 ·
Holy hell. I think I will just stick to computer networks and race cars.:laughing:

Reading along I see "asdglzkjxy WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) qblgasdfgawyasga WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) bdhyeydfyasf WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) dbfaf,qea/gghas WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) zxb.cndfasdfo. New Tab - www.google.com :censored:

I will go to Google half what you said to get a better understanding. Smart-@ comments aside, I DO appreciate the input...haha.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Thanks Gary, I will go read those links! Cross section drawing of the sun room, is that not the one on the blueprint? The sun room is shown on some of the drawings at the bottom of page 2, but I assume that's not what you're looking for?

11' (gable wall length) x 9'6" (ridge)...
 
#44 ·
I went back and looked and did not see a cross section posted. A cross section is similar to the exterior elevation. Imagine taking your house and slicing it like a loaf of bread so you can see what's inside. It should explain the construction of the various assemblies such as floor, roof, walls, etc.

I wanted to see what they had specified for your roof construction in the sunroom.
 
#47 ·
You can push on that wall as is, and it will flex very easily. The bad thing is, if the OP was to fire the current GC and subs, to find a competent group that could build this place to last more than twenty years, they might be left with having what is there now, open to the weather, and thus would have to tear a bunch of structure off, to redo the building from the foundation all the way up.

As for the notation of 90mph winds, that is around what they design manufactured housing for. MD gets its share of bad windstorms and bad Winter Weather. I would hate to see what happens if they get a Windshear or Straight Line winds greater than 125mph, in its current status.
 
#48 ·
Looks to me since the pic of the 3 windows in the sun room are non load bearing, they left out the headers.

Dave, do you have a straight on picture of one of the windows or doors that have a header hanging from the top plate? I'm thinking there is full structure on the exterior side of the wall and the framing is scaled down on the interior to allow for insulation.
 
#50 ·
Dave, you are going to hate me on this one. Before they start putting in any insulation or drywall up, have them pull two runs of RG-6 for Satellite dish location, also same for Outdoor antenna, in case you decide to go that route, if FiOS or CATV is not available in your location.

Also have RG-6 pulled where the telephone box will go (I like to see them where the power meter is), also Cat-5e or Cat-6 for comm. Have everything pulled into the utility room where the furnace & water heater are, along with min. two Cat-5e or Cat-6 to each room for both Ethernet & telephone if not going with cordless handsets that are bluetooth capable, if only using cellphones.

At where you are going to place your tv's in the house, have them pull Cat-6 for wired Ethernet, or HDMI over Ethernet wiring, if placing tv boxes in that central room. Have them pull a Cat-6 Run where your thermostat will go, in case you ever go with a Network or are going with a network capable thermostat to control the hvac.

I would at least place a Ceiling mounted Access Point using Power Over Ethernet, such as something like this http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Netw...&keywords=ceiling+mount+wireless+access+point on each floor, with a POE capable Network switch back in that central location in the Utility room. Make sure you have a good sturdy shelf that you can place the equipment on for router, modem, UPS, etc..

If going with audio in the rooms, make sure all that wiring is in place, and photos taken, so the wires are found when you go to place the speakers in the walls and ceiling locations, along with control pads for volume, etc..

I know that this stuff is probably number 100 right now on the list, but better to move it up at this point, while you can still get the wires in the wall, before they insulate and close them up. You have my email, so feel free to email me if you want to throw some ideas on this subject I just put up.
 
#59 ·
Dave needs to place a camera at the neighbor's property, watching the house, since he cannot be there everyday, or have the wife drop in. Even just having the neighbor take pic's while the crew is there, so he can catch stuff and bring it to the attention to the GC may be a good idea.

As they say, always have someone watching those who you give your money to, when you have them do a project for you.
 
#63 · (Edited)
Far as I can tell, all the headers are correct as called for on the plans. The 2-2x8 for over most of the walls are there, look closer- people. Hard to see the 3-2x12 over the 18' great room. Gable end of the sunroom do not require headers as per plan. Gable truss suffices. Nice framing other than around here (in seismic zone) a shear wall inspection is required, before the housewrap. Rest assured, inspections are being done correctly to close the sale for occupancy. If not hire someone local or post way more pictures.

The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above.


Gary
PS. Your wall is stronger with the headers just under top plate than a header directly above the window with cripples above for flex, no worries.
 
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